Q:

spacer set up for talon ss/stealth?

hi im trying to tune my stealth but want to keep it under 12flb what i want to know is what’s the difference by moving the spacers to the hammer side of the spring rather than the other side (muzzle end) and would it make a difference by using metal spacer as i would like better consistency. if i get the power down to about 11flb ill be happy thanks

all my parts are standard just now, iv got metal spacers and spare plastic ones aswell, thin fibre spacers for fine tuning, brand new standard spring and new cocking bolt/breech slide which ever you want to call it. got all these bits as a mod went wrong oops!

help mark

Mods/Machinists

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Viewing 5 replies - 1 through 5 (of 5 total)

quote pablouk:

As brutus says, get rid of the hammer slap mod. It sounds like it could be source of your variable fpe.

Yep, It’s been proved before that the hammer slap mod can reduce power. A hybrid hammer from Drum does quieten the rifle down a touch aswell as improving consistency.

As brutus says, get rid of the hammer slap mod. It sounds like it could be source of your variable fpe.

Sounds like you have been having all the fun.

What air pressure are you working with? This will always make a difference to your setup and even more so if you have an older style valve that has been modded to use more air.

If I were you I would get the stealth back to standard using the new parts and forget about the hammer slap mod.
Can you post a pic of your spacers, spring and hammer so I know what you are working with? Or are they from drum aka “leupy’?

Failing that if you can remember how it all went together put it back how it was.

The TH adjustments are simple and allow for really fine tuning the output of your stealth. As far as air usage goes, your rifle will only use the amount of air you set it up to use so if your set at 90fps your gonna use loads of air but like you, using -12FPE your gonna get arround 450 shots.

You are going to need a hex key set for your stealth with a small enough key to undo the grub screw holding the TH in place. Its size 0.50 if I remember right.

If your TH has not been undone before it with have locktight holding it in place. Heat up the hex key using an oven hob or lighter and when hot place into the grub screw and after a few moments the locktight will be near useless and you can undoo it.

If you have a new style of valve it will make very little difference in powering up your rifle but you will be able to lower it. Again if its been modded it will send pellets flying.

The slightes twist can really power up or depower your stealth so be very careful. Best to have a FAC licence really I have to say that…

I’d say you have an older modded valve to get the numbers you has said your getting.

Hope that helps

quote brutus:

You really don’t want to put the washers the breach slide side of the spring or hammer. You will have too many moving parts and its going to go wrong.

The only mods you will want to do to get what you want with very little effort and expence are very slight tophat adjustment and using the right amount of spacers fitted in the correct location ie between your rear bush and spring.

That’s what I would do.

What FPE are you shooting at right now? If it close to 12FPE tophat adjustment should do the job. If its more like 16 – 8 FPE add or remove a spacer and see what that gets you before playing with the tophat.

Hope that helps

hi, when i cronoed it for the first time about 2 weeks ago it was sitting at just under 17flb with .22 21.4 grain barracuda match pellets. i then got it back down to about 10.5 – 11flb and was happy but thought the hammer slap was a let down so decided to mod it and mod it like the one that talon tunes do, i got it all done but the gun only shot at like 2flb so after a bit of thinking i just ended up buying a new hammer spring spacers and cocking block and since then iv had it running at 17 flb all the way down to 2flb and after alot of tuning and trying to get it to run around the 11flb and finding it to be so inconsistant like jumping from 11flb down to about 7flb then up to over 12flb i got pissed off and left it (this was tuesday) before i went mental and destroyed the gun in anger! i had it running about 11flb but with a dodgy cocking block in and lots of spacers.

what do you mean by adjusting the top hat and when would i do this as is how would i set up the spacers in the shroud before i go near the top hat and by adjusting the top hat wont that lower the amount of shots per bottle?

thanks for the reply mark
please help?

You really don’t want to put the washers the breach slide side of the spring or hammer. You will have too many moving parts and its going to go wrong.

The only mods you will want to do to get what you want with very little effort and expence are very slight tophat adjustment and using the right amount of spacers fitted in the correct location ie between your rear bush and spring.

That’s what I would do.

What FPE are you shooting at right now? If it close to 12FPE tophat adjustment should do the job. If its more like 16 – 8 FPE add or remove a spacer and see what that gets you before playing with the tophat.

Hope that helps

Viewing 5 replies - 1 through 5 (of 5 total)

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