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Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)
Mike
Thats what I get for believing the manufacturers website.
A. No solvent will wick into the joint to break the threadlocker down. This is either hand-tool removable at room temperature; if not, it requires high temperatures of 450-600°F (212-316°C) to separate parts. The products are thermoset plastics in the cured state that soften at higher temperatures. Thus, you need to disassemble while at the higher softening-point temperature. Do not let it cool down first. Otherwise, it will resoldify. Solvents like methyl ethyl keytone and methylene chloride can be used for clean up of residue only after disassembly.
I wish I could find the lowest strength grade here. It is color coded purple, with a break down at 120- 170 degree’s. With a hold strength of 60-18 fp. It is made for insturment adjustment screws, and valve access screws acording to Loc-Tite Mfg. I’ve never seen it on the shelf any where. ( I think I’ll try to order some. It should be perfect for our valve set screws.!)
I use the blue on the custom made bolts in Lovett knives. (They look like simple rivetts iin the pictures, but are custom turned bolts in 416 ss and torqed to 25 fp lbs. I use both standard Red, Hig strength Red, and high Heat Red on the Drag Car.
Mike
I would think heating up the bolt would make it expand and stick tighter?
On the stealth? I’ts been that long since I’ve shot It unregd I can’t really remember. I’ll let you know when I try my new valve, once It’s made.
Can you get the reg re vamped? I sent mine off to a guy to service and re set but that was the rapid reg.
80 yards with a 11 FPE air rifle 😯 RESPECT 😀 Best I’ve managed Is abut 60 and that was with my .22 S400. I guess yours Is 177?
I really lucked out with this ranger. No problems at all, just low FPE but I got that fixed in about 20minutes.
The only adjustment I can see is the long bolt that you would screw into the hammer for more FPE out out for less FPE.
Only thing with it is that at the maximum it will only do 11.2 fpe. Like I wrote I can file that down a touch for more FPE.
One thread looked to have increased the FPE by 3 so not much fileing required but I can’t be assed… I shot a bunny at 80yards last night with this set up so its doing the job well so far.
Hope you get the rapid sorted soon.
Also have you noticed the regulated setup is loads louder then the normal bottle. Mine really makes a bang when I shoot. NOT the sound barrier. I think it is an eco from inside the regulator.
Is there a hammer preload adjuster on the AW? I’ve had my reg re set on the rapid and It’s come back over what I wanted so I just adjusted the preload.
Sounds good 😉 I seem to be doing nothing but fixing leaks on this 😈 rapid!
My gatcat soldering iron has a flame option and this distroied the locktite quickly…
The regulator is easilly adjustable but only allows for a maximum of 11.2FPE with a 8.44gr pellet.
Not the end of thw world as I could file it down a bit to get closer to the 12FPE mark but I don’t think it would be worth all the effort.
The Mrs loves it and took out a baby bunny with her first shot and followed that up with an adult bunny. Happy days…
You settled on the air ranger In the end then B? How Is she finding It?
Power out put on an air ranger. Its 9FPE right now so want to put it up to 11.5FPE to be on the safe side of the ligal limit. The Mrs don’t have a licence.
Actually some one posted back when, that they applied the solder iron directly on the screw and worked well.
SAW
I think that will work good just direct it to the bolt you are trying to get out what is this on?
thanks for the replies i think it is blue or green, cant see it clearly.
i have a Antex Gascat 120 Gas Soldering iron with an attachment for hot air. do you think this will do the job for heating it up enough?
Mike
Thats what I get for believing the manufacturers website.
A. No solvent will wick into the joint to break the threadlocker down. This is either hand-tool removable at room temperature; if not, it requires high temperatures of 450-600°F (212-316°C) to separate parts. The products are thermoset plastics in the cured state that soften at higher temperatures. Thus, you need to disassemble while at the higher softening-point temperature. Do not let it cool down first. Otherwise, it will resoldify. Solvents like methyl ethyl keytone and methylene chloride can be used for clean up of residue only after disassembly.
Depends on grade: blue= hand tools or low heat. 220f is enough. Red Heat. 325f will do. Industrial perminate. 4oof.
Mike
if it wont break by using hand tools it needs heat to soften – 450-600 F
Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)
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On the stealth? I’ts been that long since I’ve shot It unregd I can’t really remember. I’ll let you know when I try my new valve, once It’s made.
Can you get the reg re vamped? I sent mine off to a guy to service and re set but that was the rapid reg.
80 yards with a 11 FPE air rifle 😯 RESPECT 😀 Best I’ve managed Is abut 60 and that was with my .22 S400. I guess yours Is 177?
Yes the stealth. i have always noticed its a bit louder but not been so bothered untill i started shooting this air rager.
the air ranger is a .177, dont think i could do that with a .22