well i got my new trigger pieces and it still wont work
i got the bits in today all new trigger components
i put the gun all back together all the stock pieces
and the hammer still wont lock in
i switched to heavie hammer nothing
heavie spring
nothing
finalli i put the saftey back in and bam it hold every time now with the heavie hammer and all
i dont know whats up with it but i hate the damn saftey but for now its staying in i guess 🙄
now to go do a chrony string 😈
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Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)
scary thought eh? I remember arguing the finer points of trigger design and the merits of good hard tool steel! 🙂
Think the general consensus was Ti was too brittle…. but mention the word Titanium and all the mall ninja’s come out to play.
when i took out my safety, i had to same problem, i had to strech the springs just a little. i think that the safety helps the upward pressure on the sear that helps reset it when you cock the gun. that is why i think it needs extra spring when the safty is removed
i dont know why it holds with the saftey installed but all i know is it does
so whatever it works now i dont care
scary thought eh? I remember arguing the finer points of trigger design and the merits of good hard tool steel! 🙂
I think it was Don (dragon) that made some in Titanium?
i put the gun all back together all the stock pieces
and the hammer still wont lock in
i switched to heavie hammer nothing
heavie spring
nothing
finalli i put the saftey back in and bam it hold every time now with the heavie hammer and all
i dont know whats up with it but i hate the damn saftey but for now its staying in i guess 🙄
now to go do a chrony string 😈
I would love someone to explain how it could possible work because you installed the safety???
One gun I owned wouldn’t cock with the sear spring in the stock position unless the safety parts were installed. I cannot explain why… but reading between the cranky lines I figured you just didn’t believe crow 🙂
I did what pab suggested crow do and placed it to the more forward slot and it worked fine…
not at all….
it is my understanding the safety is unattached to the trigger ‘train’ so befuses me how it could make a trigger ‘stronger’
UNLESS the safety baulk supports the sear when the hammer takes a run at it stronger than the intermediate sear can. mmmmm starting to answer myself…… 🙂
My solution to the weak trigger bits was 1/8″ O-1 Starrett tool steel. made my own and never a failure yet. Great stuff.
YN do you remember back in TOG days the tossing back and forth of the Titanium triggers? who was that again?
Be well
Walter….
i put the gun all back together all the stock pieces
and the hammer still wont lock in
i switched to heavie hammer nothing
heavie spring
nothing
finalli i put the saftey back in and bam it hold every time now with the heavie hammer and all
i dont know whats up with it but i hate the damn saftey but for now its staying in i guess 🙄
now to go do a chrony string 😈
I would love someone to explain how it could possible work because you installed the safety???
One gun I owned wouldn’t cock with the sear spring in the stock position unless the safety parts were installed. I cannot explain why… but reading between the cranky lines I figured you just didn’t believe crow 🙂
I did what pab suggested crow do and placed it to the more forward slot and it worked fine…
i put the gun all back together all the stock pieces
and the hammer still wont lock in
i switched to heavie hammer nothing
heavie spring
nothing
finalli i put the saftey back in and bam it hold every time now with the heavie hammer and all
i dont know whats up with it but i hate the damn saftey but for now its staying in i guess 🙄
now to go do a chrony string 😈
I would love someone to explain how it could possible work because you installed the safety???
On my PB’s I have found that I rarely use my safety when I am on the bench shooting…
With my AF rifle I use it all the time which is really odd… 😆
It’s a good thing we don’t use these things for self defense, that safety would get a person killed… 😕
I have to admit, I hate a gun without a safety, but in this case the trigger alone is not a great design, then add insult with that safety they came up with…
Needless to say I gave up and took my safety out long ago also…
Are you using alot or preload, is it difficult to cock??
X2 I also could not get it to catch if I had the PW on 12
I was just looking at the diagram. Either move it forward or stretch it out a bit.
Are you using alot or preload, is it difficult to cock??
i put the gun all back together all the stock pieces
and the hammer still wont lock in
i switched to heavie hammer nothing
heavie spring
nothing
finalli i put the saftey back in and bam it hold every time now with the heavie hammer and all
i dont know whats up with it but i hate the damn saftey but for now its staying in i guess 🙄
now to go do a chrony string 😈
If I remember correctly, I moved the sear spring forward when I took
out my safety
Lubricate with jam.
DO NOT use honey as this will attract bears.
Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)
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I made all my own trigger parts with the exception of the springs… I made mine from stainless steel and then flame harden them and they have been in the rifle working as well as any of this design. Some with and some without the safety…
Now I am not a big fan of doing the stretch on the springs… If you need more spring load, buy a stronger spring… I just fail to get involved with stretching springs and going on as they were made to be able to do that sort of thing…
CrowP,
Once you get this all sorted out with your trigger issues, I would like to see you try the hammer and/or spring I sent you man. Try it again, but this time limit the valve stem travel. Set the top hat for travel at .045″ to start with…
Its a different way to look at things dude, but if you have the valve to support this, it will be well worth while to spend the time messing around with the valve stem travel. Crank your power wheel to zero and leave it there.
I never mess with my PW anymore, plan in the near future to probabaly do away with the PW all together and get a stand-off that is not adjustable to just fill the space and cover the opening in the side of the fame where the PW is viewed…
I have my top hat set at less than .040″ right now and get plenty of air to fire the heavy pellets… I have not had that good of successs with setting the top hat much over .100″ without getting the stem bent and/or damaged… But this can all be worked out after you get the trigger components lined out to your liking… I have fought the trigger issues before and they can be a PITA…
I must admit I have toyed with the idea of buying something like the MK 4 trigger assembly from the Rapid rifles and adapt it to the AF Condor of mine… It would be quite a change to do this and these trigger assembly’s of Rapid are quite the trigger to be desired. Like night and day if you ask me… The three piece clunker trigger assembly we have in the AF rifles need some serious help… I have spent way more time with my trigger in my Condor than any other trigger I have ever messed with, there is just not much you can do with this setup as is… I have made in the design of the three parts, trigger over travel limit or trigger stop, creep and just in general the feel and appearance of all this. I don’t have anything adjustable any longer in my trigger on my Condor. It’s just not a quality trigger assembly.
I wish more than anything I didn’t like my Condor as I do, I would sale everything I have for the AF stuff and be done with these all together LOL… Mine has just been kind of neet to mess around with as time has allowed me too… Heck I could buy me another Rapid or something similar and not look back… I suspect I am not the only person here that has not thought about this as well LOL…