Springer oil recommendation question:
what oil can I use in lieu of Beeman “compression spring oil” and “chamber oil” for my P1???? I am assuming they are going to be two different oils?? Thanks
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Viewing 7 replies - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)
Molly will work.
I think you mean tar. Moly will be slung off a spring with one shot.
Yeah I mean thick goopy stuff.
Molly will work.
I think you mean tar. Moly will be slung off a spring with one shot.
80…
Instead of tearing down the gun, if you can go inside the cocking slot with a toothpick or small wire brush, you can apply tar to the spring from there.
Yes, manufactures often recommend a ‘chamber oil’ of some sort, but this is not needed and in fact often causes more trouble than it’s worth.
RWS guns are noted as having bone dry internals and I shot my 54 for the better part of 3 years before tearing into it and never had an issue.
Neatsfoot oil is often recommended for guns with a leather piston seal to bring new life to the gun and sometimes will work on some synthetic seals, but as a rule when properly lubing a gun you want moly behind the piston seal, heavy tar on the spring, and clear tar on the OD of the compression chamber. Moly also works great for pivot points instead of oil.
Can get all the above from JM’s site.
Molly will work.
So nothing on the spring? Thanks
No oil inside the chamber.
Only oil the pivot points.
Viewing 7 replies - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)
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Instead of tearing down the gun, if you can go inside the cocking slot with a toothpick or small wire brush, you can apply tar to the spring from there.
Yes, manufactures often recommend a ‘chamber oil’ of some sort, but this is not needed and in fact often causes more trouble than it’s worth.
RWS guns are noted as having bone dry internals and I shot my 54 for the better part of 3 years before tearing into it and never had an issue.
Neatsfoot oil is often recommended for guns with a leather piston seal to bring new life to the gun and sometimes will work on some synthetic seals, but as a rule when properly lubing a gun you want moly behind the piston seal, heavy tar on the spring, and clear tar on the OD of the compression chamber. Moly also works great for pivot points instead of oil.
Can get all the above from JM’s site.
Thanks Rob and benneboy, and wok…should be able to go at it now.