EDgun trigger help
After reading how Mam and Ted in Madison had there triggers set I just had to set mine up like theirs with a single stage with a very short pull. I did and my groups got worse. So I went to set it up like it was before and I got it all out of whack. I have watched Ed’s trigger adjustment video but still have questions. Does the long rod need loctite on it on either end? What does the spring on the rod at the trigger end do? Thanks
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LEE, I use Slick 50 engine treatment on the trigger parts, hammer, and
the bolt….
Ted, I pulled the gun out tonight and the way I set the trigger up last night was very close to yours except I have more sear engagement, which I hope I can keep since the gun has no safety. I’ll be able to shoot tomorrow evening and will tell better than testing it while holding bolt back. I may put a dab of moly on the sear too.
Thanks guys for the help and I will keep you posted.
At a glance, it looked a lot different… After 30 seconds of actually LOOKING at it, I was mistaken. They are the same. Post edited. I’m dumb. 😆
Man you had me feeling all senile…..lol
At a glance, it looked a lot different… After 30 seconds of actually LOOKING at it, I was mistaken. They are the same. Post edited. I’m dumb. 😆
Ted, what is the difference you are seeing between our triggers?
Mam, I see you have the spring on the rod turned all the way in. Did you experiment much with it turned out farther? Thanks for the pics.
Yes, I did LEE…. I have it that way so that the sear will engage with very little
travel on the trigger… I also removed the spring on the front of the trigger to
counter act the increased tension from having the nut screwed all the way
in……..
Here you go, Lee. I’m sure these photos will help.
The gun is cocked in both photos. Looking at the trigger photo, it is set up for a one stage trigger. If I were to screw that second screw down a tiny tiny bit, it would turn it into a very light 2-stage trigger.
ted
Ted, if you have time can you post some pics of your trigger and sear engagement distance?
Mam, I see you have the spring on the rod turned all the way in. Did you experiment much with it turned out farther? Thanks for the pics.
Exceptional explanation and photos, Mam!!
I ditto every word you said, and I’m glad you said it first because I would not have done that well had I tried.
I believe that my trigger is set up exactly how Lee wants his set up – more pull than your “gnat breath” trigger, but still a one stage, light pull that breaks in the same place every time. Maybe I’ll put together a video about how I adjust the trigger. That is something I reckon a lot of guys would like to see.
ted
Here are some pictures of mine in different stages of the trigger pull….
This is uncocked… The front screw is not touching the
actuator..
This is cocked. You can see that the front screw is touching the
actuator.
This is at the point of sear release…. The rear of the trigger is not touching the actuator.
This is what will happen if you have the front screw backed out too far… The rear of the trigger will be the first thing to hit the actuator and will increase the pressure needed to release the sear….
you can back out the front screw to give you the sense of a first stage and
more travel…. Of course you would have to first remove or completely back
out the rear screw and make sure that the rear of the trigger is not hitting the
actuator before the front screw releases the sear.
Yeah, thats the only time my trigger was light but for some reason my groups sucked with one stage and a hair trigger. I want some travel but a light pull and not a harsh break.
The main reason that I adjusted my trigger to one stage was, to make the
trigger lighter. I could never make it light enough when it had 2 stages. When
the sear is released using the rear screw on the trigger, it takes more
pressure due to that screw being closer to the pivot point and therefore
requiring more pressure due to the change in leverage. Think of a see saw
on a playground… The closer you sit to the pivot point, the more weight it
takes to make the other side come up. I removed the rear screw. I also
Epoxied a knurled head to the front screw so that I can adjust it with my
fingers. 1/4 turn can make the difference between making the sear catch and
not being able to make the sear catch. I am not sure what the weight of my
trigger is but I think it takes just a little more than a knat’s breath to set it
off..
I’ve still been adjusting mine but still can’t get it where I like it. Its like the last stage takes too much pressure to pull or break. My rod has both right hand threads so the opposite end of trigger on the rod should have loctite. With the trigger assembly removed you can see how turning it changes it from “small pull to long pull” like Ed mentions in the video. I wonder if a little moly would help there?
Here is the video if you haven’t watched it.
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I was able to shoot today. Trigger still has a heavy break to it but I’m putting pellets in the same hole at 30 yds. I put some moly on the sear and it helped some. I guess the only way to get it lighter is to have less travel on the sear. Thanks for the advice, I will keep playing with it.