Q:

Tank leaking

I haven’t used my Talon SS in several months so I put it on the AirForce pump to add air. I pumped to 3000 PSI and unscrewed the air release fairly slowly. it kept releasing air way beyond what I thought it should. I unscrewed the tank to see what was going on and the tank kept releasing air.

I screwed it back into the pump and shut the air bleed screw and the gauge went up to about 1800 PSI. I released the air quickly this time and it appeared to not leak any more.

I pumped back up to about 2500 PSI and released the air quickly and again it continued to dump air afterwards. I shut it until it built back up to about 1800 psi and opened it and it doesn’t leak. Seems like anything over 1800 PSI and it won’t seal.

Any ideas to try before I contact AirForce?

Talon/Talon SS

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Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)

quote LURKER #1:

quote kidcurry:

I forgot how much it sucked to pump up from empty. 😥

I did it 3 times this week because I didn’t follow Marmot_Militia’s instruction to use the new tank o-ring that he provided with the E-TaCREG. Dumb me, I thought my old thicker o-ring would seal better. No such luck. It had become spongy and under 2200+ PSI it became nearly liquid and oozed out enough to create a slow leak 🙄 😳 😳 😳

i did it 5 time today yeah it sucks but i am going to look like popeye pretty soon.

quote kidcurry:

I forgot how much it sucked to pump up from empty. 😥

I did it 3 times this week because I didn’t follow Marmot_Militia’s instruction to use the new tank o-ring that he provided with the E-TaCREG. Dumb me, I thought my old thicker o-ring would seal better. No such luck. It had become spongy and under 2200+ PSI it became nearly liquid and oozed out enough to create a slow leak 🙄 😳 😳 😳

quote kidcurry:

I

I forgot how much it sucked to pump up from empty. 😥

😆 😆 😆 😆 😆

Glad to hear you’re back up and gunning…….and yea pumping up from empty sucks big time….that’s why I now have 2 scuba tanks and 1 scba tank.. 😈

I didn’t have to remove the whole valve assembly – just the brass insert. Replaced the O-ring and it holds pressure at 3000 now. Thanks for the help.

I forgot how much it sucked to pump up from empty. 😥

For any reason if you ended up to remove the entire vavle, please….. make sure the tank is empty

check this page below to identify which version of vavle you have installed.

http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=353&highlight=vavle

If you unscrew the top hat then using the snap ring pliers to unscrew the brass guide that should work but their is a spring under the stem so don’t loose it ….and when its apart don’t get the idea to “clean up” the sealing surface of the delrin valve seal just cause it has a groove in it…that groove is what seals the valve….good luck and be careful ……Greg

I have to remove the entire valve? Or can I just remove the tophat so I can access the two indents in the brass valve insert and then remove it by using the tips of snap ring pliers or needle nose to unscrew the brass valve insert?

Or won’t come out because it’s held by something attached to the stem on the inside of the bottle? I’ve been looking for a drawing / exploded view of the valve assembly but haven’t found one yet.

quote Subssonic:

If that’s a talon valve DON’T pry the stem out the top of the valve….the bottom of the stem where it fits into the plastic seal is nurled and will damage the brass guide….in order to pull it you need to remove the valve and pull the stem out the back of the valve after the top hat has been removed…..I may be wrong but that’s how the one I’ve seen are assembled…..Greg

2X

it’s not that easy to remove the valve either, you need to have good tool to remove it, otherwise you may scratch it all over the valve body of the valve.

Someone here can make good valve removable tool for you, Subssonic can do it too.

This is 1 of them that Metal Head made before.

http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11677&highlight=vavle+tool

If that’s a talon valve DON’T pry the stem out the top of the valve….the bottom of the stem where it fits into the plastic seal is nurled and will damage the brass guide….in order to pull it you need to remove the valve and pull the stem out the back of the valve after the top hat has been removed…..I may be wrong but that’s how the one I’ve seen are assembled…..Greg

quote rj-porter:

sounds like u have a bad oring were the brass piece goes into the valve body just dump the tank use 2 screw drivers and pry out the valve stem carefully i use a pair of needle nose pliers to unscrew the brass piece out then replace that oring

Sounds like thats it.

sounds like u have a bad oring were the brass piece goes into the valve body just dump the tank use 2 screw drivers and pry out the valve stem carefully i use a pair of needle nose pliers to unscrew the brass piece out then replace that oring

I just tried the dryfire about 10 times. Pumped it back to 2500 and it still leaks. It’s weird the way it will seal if at around 1800-2000 and I unscrew the pump pressure release screw quickly but if I let it out slowly it just keeps leaking.

I stuck it in some water but there’s too many bubbles to see where it’s coming from. You can feel the air straight along the axis of the tophat. I’ve put my finger over where the air is released for firing and it isn’t there. It feels like it might be coming from between the brass valve insert and the outer edge of the bottle neck.

Anyway, I’ll let all the air out and try the other suggestion. Thanks so far.

like pab said or stick tank in gun and dry fire a few times

Odd, the higher the pressure, the harder it should seal. Sounds like the stem is jamming back under high pressure. Dismantle valve (or at least pop the stem out) and check for debris. Reference section if you don’t know how to do it. Best empty tank just in case the seal isn’t seating properly and it dumps the tank, whilst you dump your bowels.. 😉 😆

Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)

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