Edgun – Getting the Lead Out – Inlead not centered.
I typed this all up really nice-like. Then when I hit submit, the Talon forum opted to insist that I log in again, and consequently deleted all my words. So, now you guys get the [much] shorter version.
———————————————————
While doing a pellet-sorting experiment today, my groups suddenly opened up significantly. Guess which group I’m talking about. It started on the 17.9 target, as well.
So, I ran a few dry patches through the barrel, and lots of lead shavings came out.
Patch 1
Patch2
Patch3
The next three groups after cleaning can be found in the first photo
– Above the 18.2 target
– Below the 17.9 target
– Below the 18.0 target
Ted
All Replies
I got a chance to put a few pellets through it today. It was no better or worse than it had been before adjusting the transfer block. Even with a 15mph swirling wind, I managed to get .48″ average for 13 groups at 50 yards (using flags). So, the gun is shooting fine.
But, the rifling is still chewing up pellets. I’m sure it’s the rifling and not the inlead or any other parts close to the breech. When I pull a patch through the gun, it feels “chunky” at about 40-50% of the barrel length. And the patch pulls through with little lead flecks exactly where the rifling is on the barrel – like a pie plate with quarters arranged on the perimeter.
I may have to try and see if lubed pellets work again. Last I checked, they weren’t as accurate as the non-lubed pellets. But, lubed pellets do not leave the lead shavings in the barrel. 😕
Sounds odd but, if you load a pellet, UNCOCK the gun, and then shove a rod
down the muzzle end of the barrel and push the pellet out backwards with no
resistance then, you can be pretty sure that everything is lined up without
taking things apart…. If the pellet comes out with damage on the skirt then it
is hanging on the transport port block and adjustment is needed..
Perfect job! I did not even get a chance to come up with alignment recommendations.
Hi Ted, I just back from the bar. I tried to do a Pab to my left hand at work today. I was really lucky and stupid! I was troubleshooting a press and trigered a prox (proximity detector) to see if the prox was causing the problem. I have done the same thing dozens of times before. Today, I had my hand a little too high and the press got me!
I could have easily smashed my hand or lost it! Nothing broken, I don’t think, I didn’t go to the hospital. It is swolen and sore as hell!
I got some pics of my hand and the groups I shot after work. Hell yes, I went shooting! I have my priorties straight! I will post them tomorrow.
Now, for your question. No, I don’t torque on it. I tried that and the guide might get stuck. The guide is just to make sure that the barrel and the transfer port block are in alignment. I have not watched the video that came with my .25. My .22’s video shows Ed using a guide rod to check barrel and transfer port block alignment.
My .25 had the smooth shiny area. I don’t know if my .22 has one or not, I have been neglecting it once I got the .25. I gave the .25 a little more polishing and it helped the average group size.
When I get back to my .22, if the barrel breach doesn’t have a polished lead in, it will when I am done!
Sorry for any mispelled words or punctuation errors. I am under my bartenders precribed medication!
I just got back from work also, otherwise I will post that video for you too Ted, LOL.
I’m glad you figured it out yourself 😆 😆 😆
Tedd,
That sounds like it would tough on the barrel. You don’t insert the rod and torque on it, do you? Is it just a general “guide”? Or, maybe, I’m envisioning its use incorrectly. I’m not sure what constitutes the inlead on this rifle. My marauder had a smooth, shiny area that lead into the barrel. But, the matador looks pretty squared off. I request clarification.
I just got back from shooting mine also. Ted, you can have a piece of plastic or brass machined down to .218 and use it for an alignment tool.
I made one for my .22 Matador. As you can tell, the barrel mounts can shift when you have the bolts loose enough to remove the barrel.
I just made a couple for the .25. They are brass and measure .247.
If it is still shaving pellets after you got the barrel centered, check your in lead.
Nice pics, by the way! What camera and lighting did you use?
Good job Ted… Oldgoat and I have been through that a few times and he has
now made an alignment tool to help center the barrel with the transfer
port block… I just got here a little too late.. I was out shooting the EDgun. lol
Well…. I just babbled on about what I thought could be the issue, your the one who found that video. And so freaking fast? 🙂
Dave
It will be interesting to see if/howmuch the groups tighten up…
Dave
Agreed. I’ll report back. And thanks for setting me on the path.
Ted
Looking much better! 😎
It will be interesting to see if/howmuch the groups tighten up…
Dave
After following Ed’s video instruction: 😎
Sweet, at least you can fix it easily 🙂
Well done ED for the videos
Dave
I think I found the answer, Dave.
Starting at 7:45.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
The only way that I would see the rifling stripping lead from the pellets, would be if you were shooting at stupidly fast speeds like Mach 2+ and the pellet was skipping over the rifling.
One thing that Ive noticed from the pictures and I think someone has alreadt touched on, is that it looks like there isn’t a smooth entry into the rifling, looks like it is going from smooth bore to rifling instantly that sould be “Shaving” off the rifling marks on the pellets not “Forming” the marks into the pellets.
Thats what I can percieve anyway
Dave