marauder shroud questions
hello, can anyone tell me what the O.D. and I.D. is, for the marauder’s shroud? thanks!!
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hoot, for that shroud that vents air to the rear, and lets out the air through those small holes, you could add some more baffles along the barrel to swish that air around a bit before it exits… ummm, i guess like a washer, the center hole big enough for the barrel, and four holes at 00, 90, 180, 270 degrees, and alternate the hole alignment- so that the holes wont be in line…maaaybe 6 of these washer-type baffles? i dunno, just a thought…and perhaps a reverse spiral baffle to force the air to the rear?
Red lines are two rows of .070 holes drilled. They off set each other and are spaced out about .14, The front of the baffles are .070. except the front baffle it has no holes in the front.
I also removed the barrel o-ring to help it vent to the rear of the tube easier.
I will be testing holes drilled in to the tube to vent the air pressure outside, later this month.
My AA S400 had those two rather large vent holes, but not much air came out of them. Ed puts really tiny holes in the back of his Edgun shrouds.
When I tried to duplicate the “vent to the outside”, I tried 1/8th inch and used about ten of them. I got a “blast” when I shot the rifle and couldn’t use the shroud because of the noise of the air escaping.
I suspect AA must route those holes in some manner to baffle the air vented outside so it won’t exist with too much pressure. I am not aware of how they do it. I DO know if you vent air from the back, direct from the tube, it needs very small holes. However, that is not to say the Magic Eraser technique might not muffle and slow that escaping air to much a more managable sound signature. Of course it may just plug the holes and accomplish nothing.
Experiment on some pvc pipe first and see what happens. Lots cheaper.
Good Luck!
Hoot
awesome, awesome!! this is why i love this forum!!!
Red lines are two rows of .070 holes drilled. They off set each other and are spaced out about .14, The front of the baffles are .070. except the front baffle it has no holes in the front.
I also removed the barrel o-ring to help it vent to the rear of the tube easier.
I will be testing holes drilled in to the tube to vent the air pressure outside, later this month.
From the FWIW department…My S410 factory barrel shroud has 2 holes drilled in it at the very rear…they are 1/16 “..that’s all the factory feels is necessary !!
II found the post that had picture of the “Weihrauch” version..and built one 4 1/2″ inches long, following that design..mine is SO QUIET, it’s scary!!
awesome, awesome guys, i really appreciate it!! im building something crazy, and special, this will all help getting this rifle finally done!!
That’s the whole secret in a nutshell.
The muzzle exhauset is “explosive” in its release of gas. If you can divert, and/or control the release of that gas, silence results.
If you are trying to make a stock Mrod shroud more quiet, it’s not possible, unless you add an extension to it.
If you are tying to adapt an existing shroud to the Mrod design, then that’s another story.
1) Make it as long as possible,
2) Allow a few inches from the end of the barrel before you put your baffles into play.
3) Give the air a route to the rear of the shroud via holes in the shroud-barrel support. This give more expansion room.
4) Drill TINY holes in the very back of the shroud to permit an escape route for remaining pressurized air to vent. These holes need to be very very small, perhaps 1/32″ and evenly spaced around the shroud, but not more than eight in number.
That is every ounce of knowledge I possess. Some guys on this forum specialzed in baffle design to buffer the release of the air into the shroud and knock out any harmonics in play. However, the quietest shroud on the open market is probably the Mrod stock and all it has are four or so plastic cups in a row with a center hole a few thousandths of an inch overbore of the caliber you are shooting.
I’m no expert by any means, but I don’t miss much of what is said or done around here and this is the basics of what I have picked up that really works.
Quiet is good. Dark and quiet is deadly.
Regards,
Kindly ‘Ol Uncle Hoot 😯
what do you mean by that? could you explain what all you did? im trying to get the Mrod style shroud design down to neighborhood friendly sound levels…and thanks for the help!!! its greatly appreciated!!!
I vented each baffle into the tube,and it seems to have helped a good bit.
no harm no foul brother! thanks for the help with the baffles though!! much apprieciated! does anyone have thoughts on how to improve the baffles at all??
Ignore me. It’s just talk.
YOU TALKIN SHIT?! 😆
USMC- Uncomplicated Shit Made Complicated…
USMC, primary source of liquid iron and minerals for plant life in the ‘Nam.
Bo Dai…..AMF !!!
thanks!!!
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Worth a try.
It seems to make sense, but a lot depends on what volume/pressure air is involved, and the relationship between how long it takes for the air pressure to blast out the front, vs. how long it would take for the air to navigate to the rear and off-gas out those vents.
The relief holes in those rear baffles would seem to require “just right” back pressure to equalize air out the front and out the back.
Might not be as simple as it sounds, but again, worth a try.
Just remember, a vent in a shroud is just an exchange for a larger expansion chamber. There are always trade-offs in such deals.
Just my two cents worth. There are people in here watching that know a LOT more than me about such things.
Hoot 😯