.177 Talon. Barrel length, velocity, #good shots per fill?
I’m been impressed with my Talon Stubby in .22. It’s got the Hi-Flo valve and I can get 30 good shots at 34 fpe from a 3000 psi fill. I think it’s an ultimate hunting rifle, especially for the price.
I’ve toyed with the idea of picking up one in .177 for Hunter Field Target. But I would like to optimize it for shooting 10+ grain pellets at 19.5 fpe. I understand that because these rifles are so adjustable, many things come into play, including but not limited to: fill pressure, barrel length, top hat setting, power wheel setting, etc.
I assume a longer barrel will be more efficient but how much is too much? That’s really the biggest concern as everything else can be determined and readily changed.
Also, my .22 is LOUD without the shroud. Is the .177 at 20fpe loud too? I’ve heard lots of longer barreled .177s on the range and they don’t seem too bad, so I guess it’s a function of the shorter barrel on my .22?
Paul
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i bought my condor as a 177 rifle. it liked to dump on me. i used a nylon washer to slow down flow a tiny bit and shim the spring at the bottom.
if you can avoid tank dump, that setup was an EXTREMELY consistent 35 ftlb gun with kods, and only used about 10-15 lbs. per shot from a 3k fill.
wish i hadnt fucked with it… 🙁
i think you could make it work if you wanted to, i have thought about playing with a 177 in the condor but havent yet.cant find much info on air force stuff in 177
Well that’s the kind of answer I was looking for. There are other platforms out there that will suffice.
I just thought that with all the adjustability of this platform I could make it work.
Paul
I think you should look into the reg. FT hunter is tough enough with having to holdover why throw another thing in there. You don’t want to be chasing a velocity curve on the line and you could probably shoot an entire match with one fill with a really flat velocity range.
If you mess with tophat settings your making the moving parts that get slammed by the hammer do the work to keep things consistent. You want to set those at their most efficient levels and use the reg to control the velocities. The tophat should fill the gap between the breech and the bottle without a gap and a mid to high hammer hit is going to get you a better working system than a light hammer hit.
I think you’ll find there could be a 10fps change per shot with these rifles unless your looking to fill to 2500 or something different…
I like the KISS approach, k.eep i.t s.imple s.tupid. Let the reg do the velocity work, set up the other parts for the most consistent hammer hit and a good fit to reduce any variation in the movement of the breech.
The best thing is you can get the new rig and see if it will do what you want and then get the reg… IMHO I think your going to need all the help you can get in order to get that thing to shoot evenly at 19fpe with 10 grain pellets… 😉
With a HiFlo valve your going to get too much power for a 10 grain pellet unless you detune everything and that will hurt consistency unless you short fill.
An eTac reg would be great but i’m not sure you’ll get the FPE your looking for (maybe with the high pressure eTac?) your going to need high 900’s velocity to get 19fpe… But it’s the cat’s ass for shot count and velocity consistency.
It will be loud but not as loud as the 22 or the 25…
You’ll also want to keep your scope center as close to the barrel as possible. Low mounts and don’t use a tri rail. This will keep your trajectory closer to flat (less hold over) and prevent missing due to canting the rifle.
Very cool.
I can handle the cant with a level. High mounting is okay because it pushes the curve farther out. I mean the mid-range trajectory. That 5 or 10 yard gain is the BOMB when trying to range find at 12x.
Yeah, I Randy told me about the Hi-Flo being too powerful for .177. That’s why I’m considering standard. I’m not messin’ with my .22 setup. It’s too sweet.
And I don’t mind running the curve for velocity “IF” I could hold shot to shot consistency for 25-30 shots within 10fps or so. That’s what I’m hoping to find out with respect to all of the possible combinations this setup provides. You think it’s possible?
For field target your going to want as much accuracy as possible. A 24″ barrel would be preferable over an 18″er. But you may find them to be about the same accuracy wise (but not a 12″ barrel, it WILL reduce accuracy).
With a HiFlo valve your going to get too much power for a 10 grain pellet unless you detune everything and that will hurt consistency unless you short fill.
An eTac reg would be great but i’m not sure you’ll get the FPE your looking for (maybe with the high pressure eTac?) your going to need high 900’s velocity to get 19fpe… But it’s the cat’s ass for shot count and velocity consistency.
It will be loud but not as loud as the 22 or the 25…
You’ll also want to keep your scope center as close to the barrel as possible. Low mounts and don’t use a tri rail. This will keep your trajectory closer to flat (less hold over) and prevent missing due to canting the rifle.
field target may necessitate an etac-reg. as far as barrel length, if you make proper use of the air, the only limiting factors are handling (personal preference) and availability.
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moneyshot
what were you shooting , 16 g. eunjin at 1000. that would seem to use allot of air.
i would want to first, see where each pellet wanted to print the best, but i would want to try crosman 10 grain at 920 to see if it liked that fps, that would put it at under 20 foot lbs.
then i guess the 8.4 jsb would be a pellet to try, dont think it would like 1000 fps putting it right under 20 foot lbs, probly need to be much slower, but just guessing.
there is a 10.4 jsb , to try
any one try any of these in 177.
what are you using in 177 synopsys , and at what velocity