.25 Crosman SOMETHING
Not sure what to call it… It’s gonna look like a Disco at first glance, but it’s shorter. Also, the ammo will be .25 caliber cast bullets. Here’s the run-down:
Baker Big Bore breech
Baker .25 caliber .5″ O.D. barrel. 18.875″ OAL, with M12x1mm threads at the muzzle
Cothran Powerhouse valve
Screws to allow filling up to 3200 psi
19″ OAL PCP tube
Hopefully a DonnyFl Tatsu LDC
Those are the major parts. Original intent was to build a .25 hand cannon. After looking at some other similar builds, it might be a tad too long for use as a pistol… I’m still deciding. My options are:
– Blue Fork Designs trigger group, uses AR grips- a bare-bones pistol
– Prod trigger group, with either a 2250 fore end, or a modified Prod fore end- can also use a carbine stock when wanted/needed
– 2260/Disco/Maximus trigger group w/a Baker brass trigger kit in a Disco stock, Boyd’s Pro Varmint stock, or a modified QB78, AR2078 stock. The AR2078 stock could also be modified for use as a pistol “stock”
– Mrod trigger group in a modified Gen1 Mrod stock (like a Katana!), or any of the above listed stocks
The two I’m really leaning towards are the Prod stock w/2250 fore end, and the modified Mrod Gen1 stock. Those two are the easiest options, and I have most of the parts on hand.
My goal is to have a short (or very short, if I keep it a pistol), handy air gun that can take down up to a fox sized critter that’ll have around 100 fpe w/50+ grain ammo. Not looking for shot count, just punch.
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Did some more work on the filler plug… I bedded the plug to the chassis/receiver group but since the plug is made of foam I kinda snapped it… But luckily it was a clean break. I was able to glue it back together no problem…
After pulling it from the chassis/receiver, waiting for the repair to dry:
After the repair is dry, and did some clean-up and shaping:
I still have some more work and shaping to do before I go about making the mold.
I’m working on a filler piece to take up the open space between the Armada chassis/tube/block and the EBR hand guard. The plan is to make the filler piece out of XPS foam, then make a mold after final fitting/shaping. The reason for the filler piece is two-fold: obviously it fills in the existing gap and gives the EBR hand guard something to butt up against. But it also gives me something to screw in to, thus securing the hand guard to the chassis. Here’s a pic so far:
Underneath the 123 block is the gauge hole in the chassis. I’m creating a key that will go into the gauge hole to help further lock in the filler piece once it’s complete and I glue the final product to the chassis. You can’t see it in the pic, but there’s a noticeable gap between the filler piece and the chassis/tube/block. This is so that I can use some epoxy to basically bed the filler piece to the assembly to make a near perfect fit. The better it fits now, the less work I have to do later…
Anyhoo, just a small update.
Okay- a small update…
I threw some parts together real quick so I (and you) could get a better idea of how this is gonna look:
The new main tube, with conversion block and tank is only 4.5″ shorter than a factory tube… Not as short as I’d like- but I’ll take it. Bear in mind, the barrel will be right at the end of the tank, and the stock can fold. Best guess right now, for the OAL of the gun with the stock folded and LDC removed is at or under 24″. Which isn’t bad- that’s the length of the factory Mrod tube! It might be around 32″ with stock out and LDC on, ready to shoot. Still not too bad considering it has the same air capacity as a full length Mrod, and it’ll be shooting slugs.
I found that there was too much wiggle in the folding adapter with the stock extended, so I took some metal tape and used it to shim the folding adapter- no more wiggle. I also found that I really didn’t like how the front area of the gun looked… I’m not making the same mistake I did with my .357 build, so I’m going to mod the Armada chassis and use the hand guard from an EBR:
The EBR hand guard will be flush with the bottle drop block when finished. I also decided to get a Dr. Bob bottle bipod mount, so that I can mount a bipod as far out as possible for more stability.
After some measuring, the barrel’s OAL will be 15.43″, and just the LDC threads will protrude past the end of the tank.
Anyhoo, just a small update.
I got some more parts in:
RAI main tube, conversion block and bottle adapter
Hill PEEK striker
KAK Shockwave buttpad
DonnyFL LDC adapter end cap
Anyhoo, I had enough parts to throw it together to grab some preliminary measurements.
Main tube to end of bottle is 19.5″. It’s a reduction of 4.5″, compared to a factory Gen2 Mrod tube.
I was also correct in my assumption of a 16″ OAL barrel. That is a hair over the end of the tank. So the shroud will protrude a touch past that due to the air stripper and LDC adapter end cap.
I think this carbine will be about 24″ long, when fully collapsed and the LDC removed for travel. Maybe to touch longer. That’s still pretty awesome for a slug shooter! It’ll also have the same air capacity as a full length Mrod tube. I’m pretty excited with how this will turn out. Hopefully I can get 100 fpe for 5+ shots with low ES.
I’ll keep y’all posted.
After much debate (with myself), conversing with multiple people on various forums and FB, I’ve decided to change up the build completely. Here’s the new run down of parts:
.25 cal Benjamin Armada breech
Armada chassis
11.75″ main tube
Bottle conversion block
Bottle adapter
TSS rear plug
MDS hammer w/PEEK striker
13 cu in tank
Clone LAW Tactical folding adapter
KAK Shockwave w/butt pad
Cothran Valve
DonnyFL LDC adapter
There’s some similarities between this new version of the .25 slug gun and the old one…
– I’m still planning on only running slugs through this build.
– I’m wanting it as short as possible, keeping the original idea for a carbine or short slug gun.
– Single shot only of course.
The reason for the change is that I can keep the OAL short, while having more air to use. Hence the 13 cu in tank. I didn’t want to go too big, as that would increase the length. The 13 cu in tank is the same size as a standard Mrod reservoir, but much shorter. I should be able to better reach my goal of 100 fpe, with an overall smaller package. It’ll be even smaller when folded up for storage!
Parts are starting to come in, hopefully I’ll have this and the 6mm done around spring, so I can get to testing!!
It’s been a while, I know. Life gets in the way of all the fun shit! Plus, admittedly, other airgun projects! :rofl: …And vehicles… And PB’s… And house projects… And…
After thinking on it for a while, and talking to some other tuners, I’m going to go with a Cothran breech, set up for a .5″ O.D. barrel. I’m also going to use a TJ barrel, instead of the XL 725 barrel(s). The XL 725 barrel quality is too spotty. Also, the O.D. is too large to use any barrel bands. There’s a 1-22″ twist .250 caliber barrel I want to try, since this build is just for slugs. 63 grains being the lightest. Maybe a touch lighter if I HP it.
I’m going to have a slip on LDC adapter w/M12x1 threads made, so the LDC I have won’t go to waste. It’ll be machined so that it’ll be a tight fit… No grub screws. That way, I can use some loctite 648 or something similar…
Also, I’ve decided to make the build a touch longer. Still shorter than a Katana, but only by a few inches. This way, I don’t have to chop down the Mrod stock anymore. I’ll still need to inlet for the barrel bands though. But that’s not too difficult. Also, I can use a longer barrel, and a touch more air capacity. Probably not enough to really make a difference, but it gives me the warm and fuzzies…
That’s where we are right now- ordering the breech, barrel and main tube. Just wanted to update this thread a bit.
Well, slight snag… The tuner and I had a difference of opinion. The parts are coming back to me. I’ll be getting a main tube and TP from Don Cothran. Small set-back, but the project must go on!
Small update on the stock work. It’s done for now. Everything is filled and smoothed out. All that’s left to do is to shorten the forend when I get my PCP tube, and add a 2nd swivel stud, then it’s off to the Hydro Dipper.
LDC came in today!! Man, this Neil Clague looks awesome! I can’t wait to test it! I also sent the parts off to Mountain Air today… He’s backed up a few weeks, but I’m in no rush. I just hope this won’t change into a year+ wait, like with my .30 “Condor”…
More stock work. The checkering and script isn’t filling as easily as I’d like. So I just had to take it all down to wood. No worries. It’s all as smooth as I’d like now. I’m headed to Home Depot for a few cans of high build primer for the smaller areas that still need filled. I just need to smooth this all out a touch. The stock is getting there.
A touch more work. Nothing crazy.
No more nub!!
script:
More of the checkering:
Still a bit of work yet to do. That checkering is weird. It’ll definitely need a 2nd or maybe a 3rd fill. The script should be good to go after the 2nd fill. I’m also going to run a skim coat over the former gauge hole to smooth that area out.
Oh- I pushed a few pellets through the barrel, as Roy said those Baker .25 barrels are spotty with the rifling. Luckily, the rifling marks on the pellets look good to me. I pushed through a few of Kodiak match and JSB’s. So the rifling should fully engage the slugs I intend on using. No pics, I don’t have a camera that can zoom that close. The parts will be in the mail on Monday!
Quick post…
I’ve done the initial fill of the checkering and script on the Gen1 Mrod stock. I’ll probably have to do a 2nd fill. Pics:
Powerhouse valve is IN!!! The barrel band won’t have enough material, so I’ll have to figure something out. I’ll be emailing Mountain Air very soon!!
All it really takes is a bit of work… The hydro dip really hides imperfections!!
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Not too much of an update… I’ve changed the stock- I’m going to be using my RAI chassis with Law folder clone with this build. Other than that, no changes. I still need to shorten the barrel, barrel shroud and assemble. I’ll update again when I’ve made some progress.