.308 project, on going.

I have been collecting parts and drawing a design for a Condor type .308.

Here is what I have done so far.

Some notes:

1. Shrouded barrel, packed with Colbond Enkamat 7010 and slot vented.
2. Two stage trigger, with slide safety.
3. High flow valve, .312″ dia. ID., made from 360 brass body and 12L14 steel slide, with PTFE valve seal. 45 deg seal surface.
4. Standard Airforce tank, ordered from Airforce.
5. Tank mount, hammer mount tube, top rail and tripper mount from 360 brass, sweat soldered (4 pcs.) to make one unit, not bolts.
6. Front shroud made from 1.25″ OD x .0312″ wall 6061-T6 Aluminum.
7. Hammer brass.
8. Ordered custom wood carved grips and front grip (if that is what that piece is called), from http://home.comcast.net/~rlandres/AirGrips.htm , I tried carving, did not work out.
9. Using modified DAQ barrel, 27″ long.
10. Cocking handles both sides, (L&R) just in case. Using Mcmaster spring cat. # 9637K25, length TBD.
11. Hoping to use clamp on barrel bands (Term?) so no set screws.

Here is the trigger group.

Having never designed and built any gun before, what does everyone think. Am I old in left field?

Sorry do not know how to post a DXF file.

Let me know your opinions, good, bad or ugly. 😀

Roy S.

justforfun

Participant

January 24, 2008 at 1:48 am

It would work, the tank needs to be empty.

The part that holds the fill nipple and gage, is a separate piece.

Screw the valve into the frame, slide on the gage/fill holder into place and screw on the tank.

The tank does not need to be removed for filling.

Once I finish leak testing, I’ll take it apart and post a photo, that will make things more clear, hopefully anyway.

I got the idea from somewhere on this forum or maybe the other forum that died, can not remember who or where for sure, sorry.

riffraff

January 24, 2008 at 1:20 am

quote justforfun:

It actually works or it least I can say it holds air. 😀

Aw now I gots to have one of those!!! I bet that wouldnt work on my Condor frame though, I think the guage would hit the frame when putting the bottle on the gun.

Very cool, thats a great idea.

January 23, 2008 at 10:08 pm

Working on the top rail.

marc

January 23, 2008 at 7:06 am

Copy and alter away there mate.
I always look bv it this way:
If someone does not want their design copied they should not have posted here. Right?
Practically every builder here stole from airforce! And give credit were it is due.!

keep up the good work!

January 22, 2008 at 12:26 pm

Thanks everyone.

Guess I never said, I’m not using a standard rifle barrel. I purchased a DAQ ..308 airgun barrel. For those that have not heard of DAQ, here is a link to his site http://www.quackenbushairguns.com/. Dennis has much information on his site, he has been producing great airguns for many years and what he produces works. I probably would not be trying to build my own, if I could ever get onto his waiting list. I can not seem to do that, so here I am making chips. Kind of glad now I never got on his list, this is going to be a fun project.

As for what I have to put through that barrel, I ordered some 76 grain and some 115 grain pure lead from Hunters supply.

http://www.hunters-supply.com/shop/index.php?cPath=27&osCsid=265517e6233c113161d01ea54722a208

I also ordered some 140 grain pure lead bullets from Bigboreairguns, http://www.bigboreairguns.com/specialtybullets.htm

I have also designed a way for me to make aluminum casting mold. I also have something worked up to swage lead. Nothing fancy, so who knows. I hope to try and cast and or swage some of my own lead. Never know, it might work.

Since I have never held in my hands or even seen a real Airforce Condor, everything I’m doing is my best guess as to how it should look. I’ve learned (hopefully) a lot from other great builders on this forum.

I’m trying not to copy (exactly) what someone else has done, just gotten ideas from what they did. I’ve taken a little of this and a little of that from others on this forum. Everyone has been great about sharing their ideas and what they have already accomplished.

Hopefully what I am trying to do will work, one way or the other. If not, I have more material! 😀

I’m not in any hurry, so work will not be at a fast pace.

Until later.

January 22, 2008 at 7:38 am

judging from is title .308 condor he will be using solids.

What barrel will you be using/ with what kind of slug?

Looks very nice from the drawings. Am looking forwards for the progress!!

Regards,

Marc

camotes2

January 22, 2008 at 7:16 am

Nice work on the drawings. As for using a rimfire barrel, they are a different size than those designed for airguns, but my home build has a rimfire barrel, and it shoots great 3 shots 8.5mm center to center at 50 yards. the secret of course is matching pellet to bore size. The air will expand the base of the pellet to fit, but the front driving band of the pellet must ride, or be engraved with rifling as well. If not the pellet will sit in the barrel with the nose lying on the bottom. When you shoot, the pellet tends to kink, not good. Maybe that is why the old timers with thier lead bullet target rifles mechanically fitted the bullet in the breech seperate from the cartridge.
Back again to your drawings, great amount of thought, keep it up…

January 22, 2008 at 6:55 am

Been think and drawing, now time to make some chips.

Just finished cutting the threaded section of valve body. Airforce tank screwed into place.

If anyone sees me saying a part is such and it should be called something else, please let me know.

Thats supposed to be called a “brass thingy”. 😛

Seriously though, I am truly in awe of anybody who rolls thier own airgun. It is so damned cool of you to show us so much detail in the design and process. Cant wait to see this progress in the following days.

January 22, 2008 at 1:35 am

Been thinking and drawing, now time to make some chips.

mm123522

January 19, 2008 at 6:26 pm

Cuda:
22 rimfire barrels and liners dont work with pellets, they are 2 different diameters!
I allready made that mistake.

Mark

cuda

January 19, 2008 at 5:08 pm

The prints look really nice but you can not read the numbers. I have been lurking around this site for a while and desided to sign in. The way the guns are designed it would be easy to build. I have found 22 barrel liners 26″ long 5/16 dia. for $30.00. The rest is just tubeing and small parts. And have thought about trying to build my own. Oh HI to all!!!!

January 19, 2008 at 2:46 am

MM123522, one is a fill nipple (with home made check valve) and the second is a 1″ dia. 4,000 PSI pressure gage.

The things that are not shown in the trigger group, springs, adjustment screws and stops. I did not add those because the only way I knew to post a drawing, sucks. Looses to much detail.

Hope this makes it a little less muddy. 😀

January 19, 2008 at 1:51 am

Justfor:
Cool looking trigger parts, and safety. You gotta let us know how it works out!
Whats the extra stuff protruding from the valve area? Cant see enough detail to tell what it is.
Great drawings!

bodhisdad

January 18, 2008 at 4:04 pm

Looks really nice, with some interesting design details. I look forward to your progress. Your thoughts on fiberglass interest me as well. Be lite, rigid, probably more quiet. Other than the rails being a area of concern, crushing when something is mounted and say dinged. I can think of no reason not to try the riberglass.

Barrel bushings is the term your looking for. I’ve seen the kind your refering to, Shaft collars are what the hardware stores/Fastener Co.’s are calling them. There is some options for you with those, the collar could be bored out to met the OD of your barrel. Most online hardware stores have them, and in a better variety then your hardware store will. Cool project.
http://www.mcmaster.com/ type in shaft collar
http://www.smallparts.com/
http://www.fastenal.com/

January 18, 2008 at 11:36 am

As work progresses, I’ll post.

I contacted mcMike, he did a great job designing a buttplate, the design was posted to this forum and I was lucky enough to see the design. I plan to make a wood model and cast the parts that rest against ones shoulder. The other parts will be machined from 6061-T6 Aluminum. Who knows, it may work, if not, try again out of aluminum, I know that will work. 😀

mcMike sent me a drawing so that I did not have to guess about how big to make the parts.

Thanks mcMike.

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