32-20 Barrel Liner Question
Hi Guys,
This is my first time adapting a barrel for airgun use and I have run up against something I had not expected. Given that I am a noobie when it comes to these things, I’m not surprised, but I am hoping you guys can help me out.
I got a 32-20 barrel liner in today and I am finding out that I cannot “hand seat” the bullets coming out of my lee .311 mold more than a quarter inch. Taking a hammer to the end of the lead tells me there is a great deal of resistance currently keeping the bullet from entering the barrel.
I am assuming I should throat the barrel enough to allow proper seating, but I can’t really find anything online as far as specifics.
(please pardon the wrinkled bullets, I’m just getting warmed up here 😳 )
Any ideas?
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Viewing 9 replies - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
I went with 32-20 primarily because I could not find any matching molds + barrel liners for much else on my online-hunt last week.
The liner is from Brownells, .311″ groove diameter, .505″ (12cm) O.D., 1-18 twist, 25″ (63.5cm) long and the mold is a Lee 311-93-1R.
The bullet stops hard just as soon as the rifling begins, even a few hammer blows doesn’t do the trick. I take it I should grind down enough of a lead to let the pellet seat, then let the air pressure handle the rest?
I’m using Lyman #2 Ingots (90% Lead, 5% Tin, 5% Antimony), and it feels to be much harder than the pellet lead I’m used to. In other words, its going to take a lot of work to move this thing down the barrel. What do you guys use?
I don’t see myself ever buying a tin of anything ever again, its just so damned easy and satisfying to pump out boatloads of these things.
Thanks for the responses, I feel much better about this decision now 🙂
Stop using hard lead
Properly do the breech leade
Confirm bullets are 0.311″ diameter
Pure lead ONLY!
Only has 1-10 listed but if you want a .308 1-14 just ask him. I own the mandrel for it.
Not sure on the bullet to your barrel. What do your bullets measure? They are just way to hard also. If they were pure lead you would better luck.
I use a .260 size .257 to slug my barrel. You have to use force to get it in but once it gets all the way in I use a brass rod to shove it thru.
Lyman #2 is waaaay too hard. Use pure lead or either 30-1 or 20-1.
You do not need or want hard cast bullets in air guns.
RC
Thanks Doug, can you hook me up with some contact info for TJs? (can’t find anything via google.)
Now, have I made a mistake as far as matching the Lee mold to the barrel liner from Brownells?
As I’ve never done this before, I don’t know how much of an effort should be required to get the bullet grooved.
Currently, even a few sharp hammer blows don’t get the bullet more than .080 into the rifling.
TJ’s barrel liners could have made you one. He has 1-20, my 1-14 and a 1-10 twist. $4.25 inch up to 29″. 30″ and up are $4.75 a inch.
.308 molds aren’t hard to find. Always a good selection of used on eBay.
I use pure lead for my .257 and .308
Ah! Thank you kindly! I will dig up my dremel box and see what I have on hand.
I went with 32-20 primarily because I could not find any matching molds + barrel liners for much else on my online-hunt last week.
The liner is from Brownells, .311″ groove diameter, .505″ (12cm) O.D., 1-18 twist, 25″ (63.5cm) long and the mold is a Lee 311-93-1R.
The bullet stops hard just as soon as the rifling begins, even a few hammer blows doesn’t do the trick. I take it I should grind down enough of a lead to let the pellet seat, then let the air pressure handle the rest?
I’m using Lyman #2 Ingots (90% Lead, 5% Tin, 5% Antimony), and it feels to be much harder than the pellet lead I’m used to. In other words, its going to take a lot of work to move this thing down the barrel. What do you guys use?
I don’t see myself ever buying a tin of anything ever again, its just so damned easy and satisfying to pump out boatloads of these things.
Thanks for the responses, I feel much better about this decision now 🙂
Yes you do need to cut in a lead.
I use a dremel to cut my leads in, with a 1/4 inch grinding bit for 25 caliber then polish them in with a craytex bulb.
I just had two barrels fitted to my Haley 257 Scandalous, I had Doug who threaded it short chamber it on this lathe and then I polished in the lead for unsized bullets, one barrel the original 1-14 for the 257420, Ideal 257388 and NOE 80 gain bullet, the other barrel 1-10 was polished in for unsized 100 grain NOE bullets and Hoch 109 grain bullets.
If you have a lathe, you can turn the barrel and use a stone to get a very tight lead and then do as Killer Queen does and wrap 400 grit emory cloth around a drill bit, followed by 600, then 800 then 1200 grit to polish in that lead.
Welcome to air powered cast bullets. After 4 decades of doing this with cast bullets, I believe air power is the very best way to launch cast bullets subsonic velocity.
Regards,
Roachcreek
Just curious why you got a .32-20 instead of a .30 cal? Says that it is .312 on the OD.
Ok you need to cut the leed in for the bullet. I do this with a stone file. I just spin it and use a 320 grit stone to remove the rifling. Sometimes it takes awhile but I don’t like using a cutter. I just keep checking it with new bullets until they fit they way I want them to.
I use a brass rod to push the bullets back out of the barrel while it is still in the lathe.
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Yep, I think the Lyman alloy is to blame for my current predicament. Live and learn. I’ve got some pure lead coming in and I’ll try again.
Bullets are coming out between .311-and .313, and thats given my sloppy first-timer technique.
If anyone needs a shit-load of Lyman alloy in the NY state area, please let me know 😳
Once I get my sea legs on I’ll get myself outfitted with a “proper” caliber 🙂
Thanks again for the feedback gents.