Q:

A 257 Cast Bullet Reference Guide

Hello Gents and Gals,

PURPOSE:
This page is a page that is dedicated to the .257 caliber Air Gun (s). Call it a Dedication Page, or call it a Reference Page or call it a Info Page, it’s all of the above. This page will stay updated with “CURRENT” info and will contain info on the guns that are available in 257. And that’s the point of the page, to share information regarding the 257 caliber Air gun and to become a quick reference page for anything that has anything to do with the .257″. This will be a page that can be found quickly and will contain all “CURRENT” info on the 257. That means MORE work for me and LESS work for you.

HISTORY:
The 257 caliber powder burner cartridge has been around since about the 1920’s. But in air guns, a 257 caliber powder burner barrel liner from TJ Enterprises has only been recently installed on a current air gun. As far as we know, Jack Haley and John Bowman are the 1st creators of such said air gun/caliber combos. And this gun is the Jack Haley .257 Scandalous which won L.A.S.S.O. in 2012 on its maiden voyage in the hands of John Bowman. L.A.S.S.O. is short for “Longrange Airgun Silhouette Shooters Organization” and it is simply and event for Air Guns only and steel targets are set up out to 300 yards. The 257 Scandalous quickly gained notoriety for what it was capable of. And that is……Long Range Accuracy and power. John Bowman would also often dispatch coyotes at well over 300 yards. John Bowman has shot 10’s of thousand’s of cast bullets in the 257 Air Gun and has openly shared all that he has learned. We owe much of what we know about the 257 today to Jack and John. The Haley Scandalous 257 is a very powerful, accurate and traditional Air Gun. Web links and pictures below.

CURRENT:
Doug Noble is an avid air gunner and an excellent machinist. Today, Doug is transforming the Airforce line of guns into 257 caliber beast. Doug has a history of machining since his early High School days and his current work on the Air Force line of guns is exceptional. His many post and pictures can be viewed right here on this very forum. Air force Air Guns have been around since 1994 and currently manufacture about 6 types of air guns. Air Force air guns are not very traditional looking and might remind you of an AR-15 type gun. No traditional wood and steel and bolt handle on these…lol! The Air force gun massaged over by Doug is one powerful and accurate “NON TRADITIONAL” rig. Web links and pictures below.
Also, .257 Airforce airguns can be bought from Randy at RandL Airguns (http://www.rlairgunsupply.com/).

CALIBER:
The .257 by nature is a small game to medium game caliber. In powder burner format such as the 257 Roberts or Weatherby…etc…etc…etc, it can take Deer/Antelope sized game at some decent hunting distances depending on bullet construction/manufacturer. But in an air gun, we stick mostly to Coyote sized game at the biggest. Its one of the best small/medium game calibers IMHO. Bullets will range from about 60+ grs up to roughly 120 grs. Nominal O.D. of bullets will depend largely on groove diameter of ones barrel on his/her gun. But sizes will run between .257-.258″ as somewhat of a norm. But again, sizes can be up to about .260″+. The B.C. or Ballistic Coefficient of many available bullets will range from .129+- up to roughly over .300 BC. And in comparison to the typical .251 caliber Diablo Pellet such as JSB, Bejamin or Beeman (H&N), which has a BC of about .030+-, the lightest .257 bullet will have roughly 4x’s more BC. So as you can see, the 257 in an air gun pushing 900-1130 fps can do some amazing distance shooting and retain a lot of energy. I MEAN……..FOR AN AIRGUN AND ALL………………….LOL!

PICTURES:
Here are various pictures of some current 257 caliber air guns


John Bowman and his 257 Haley Scandalous. Winner at L.A.S.S.O. 2012



Cedric aka Tofazfou shooting his Doug Noble TalonDor 257 Cal.


Doug shooting his custom/self built Condor 257


Joe Grits 257 Condor by Doug


RJ Porter’s Haley 257 Scandalous



RoachCreek’s Haley 257 Scandalous

.257 BULLET MOLDS (manufacturers):
RCBS MOLDS – http://www.rcbs.com/
LYMAN (IDEAL) MOLDS – http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/home/
NOE MOLDS – http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/index.php?osCsid=j7u9gieqlre78413k41t63lb31
HOCH MOLDS- http://hochmoulds.com/index-1.htm
LBT MOLDS (custom molds available) – http://lbtmoulds.com/index.shtml
ARSENAL MOLDS – http://arsenalmolds.com/

BULLET CASTING EQUIPMENT:
BCE can be bought from a multitude of websites and or stores. I refuse to list any in particular cause individual results might vary. But places like MIDWAY USA is a decent place to start if you want to get into casting. Bullet casting is NOT for everyone and its time consuming. At the same time, like reloading, it’s very rewarding. It also does not take a lot of equipment to get started. Here is a list of what’s needed to start casting for the 257 (or ANY caliber):
1. Safety Goggles or Glasses or even a Face Shield
2. Long sleeve Denim shirt
3. Brushed Leather Gloves
4. Long pants in either Denim or another NON FLAMMABLE material
5. 257 Bullet Mold
6. Plenty of lead
7. LYMAN, LEE or RCBS melting pot (20 lbs is a good). You can use a propane burner with some type of cast iron pot also. But that’s up to you. Do your homework.
8. Dipper/Ladle
9. Either a reloading press or a LEE hand press that will accept a standard 7/8×14 TPI sizer die
10. Bullet Lube and some studying/advise and some Common sense

Many of these molds can be found at a multitude of websites. Here is one such example: http://www.justbulletmolds.com/. Since there is always more than one website for any particular product, I will leave the shopping and goggling up to the buyer/reader who wants to shop for the lowest price on product and shipping. The web links posted up above for molds is just a guideline and not the single BEST website for said product.

PICTURES OF VARIOUS MOLDS IN .257

Doug’s 77 gr FP LBT mold


Roachcreek’s 100 gr NOE FP Mold


Tofazfou’s 74 gr FP LYMAN 257420 Mold with custom HP Pin by ERIC at HP MOLD SERVICES


Tofazfou’s 80 gr NOE FP Mold


Lyman 257 Mold



Arsenal 257420 Mold

VARIOUS .257 BULLETS:

LYMAN 257420 bullets cast by Tofazfou. FP and HP


IDEAL 100 gr HP Spitzer cast by RJ Porter


HOCH 109 gr FP’s in 20-1 lead/tin cast by Roachcreek


Various bullets cast by Tofazfou, RJ Porter and Hunters Supply


NOE 100 gr FP’s in 20-1 lead/tin cast by Roachcreek


NOE 78.3 gr HP vs 83.5 gr FP


Lyman 257420 vs NOE 80 gr

VARIOUS CAST BULLET BC #’s:
LYMAN 67 gr LFN GC 257420 = .129
LYMAN 89 gr LRN LOV GC 257464 = .204
LYMAN 89 gr LFN GC 257312 = .208
LYMAN 98 gr LSP GC 257418 = .221
LYMAN 113 gr LRN GC 257325 = .235
RCBS 117gr SP GC 257-120-SP = .271

Here is a PROCEDURE on “FIRE LAPPING” your airguns barrel submitted by Roach Creek:

Fire lapping a barrel.

I have fire lapped several rifles in my shooting career, most of them center fires that used jacketed bullets and I did it for improved accuracy, the 257 bore air guns I did for a different reason.

I fire lapped my two TJ Barrels for my Haley because I wanted them to be smoother inside to allow more shots between cleaning and for easier cleaning once fouled. Before fire lapping I was getting around 20 shots before I had considerable streaking and accuracy degradation, now it around 45 shots.

When I cleaned I used fine bronze wool on a 25 caliber brush and then followed it up with several doubled patches on a jag, then followed by #10 weight silicone oil to prep the barrel for the first shot lubed with #10 silicone oil. After fire lapping all but the most stubborn transfer deposits are removed with double patches.

The 1-14 barrel, I fire lapped with a Wheeler engineering kit from Midway, I had used their kits before and they had worked, so I was comfortable sending abrasive coated bullets down my bore, yes that does sound drastic, which is why I wanted to go with a proven, to me kit.

I prefer fire lapping to hand lapping due to the fact I ruined a Mini 14 barrel in my misspent youth and have never revisited hand lapping since.

The kit comes with three grits in little jars, 220. 320 and 600. Also included are two 1 inch by 2 inch steel plates and very clear instructions.

On my 1-14 barrel I followed the instructions on the kit, but used 15 shots per grit instead of the recommended 20 , 220. 320 and 600 and I cleaned thoroughly each 5 shots and thoroughly between grits. In the end I had a very smooth bore that resists fouling and cleans easier once it needs cleaning.

Then I fire lapped my 1-10 twist barrel and things were different.

First of all I did not use the 220 grit and I checked between shots because I was not using lube on the bullets as before so I was interested to see if they were fouling without lube because I had not checked that before on the 1-14.

And indeed they were, if I fired one shot, I could not notice fouling, on the 2nd shot I did notice fouling and on the 3rd shot I had major streaks. As a result I fired 20 shots of 320, cleaning thoroughly between shots, which is one hell of a lot of work, and then after those 20 shots I switched to 600 grit and I fired 25 shots, cleaning each time between shots.

To me the cleaning between shots was a no brainer. If I have streaking, I am polishing the lead deposited in the bore, not the bore.

When I shot the rifle after cleaning I also noticed again something different, the accuracy with100 grain NOE bullets had noticeably improved, and of course the shot count between cleaning had also.

I had miked my groove diameter prior to fire lapping and could not notice a difference in pre and prior lapping, but I was also using my “Harbor Freight caliper for the blind” so it was hard to tell if anything had changed in dimensions. Doug slugged the barrel when I had it set back for recutting the lead, it slugged out within the norms of other TJ barrels, just one heck of a lot smoother.

I did this on the 1-10 after I had cut the lead for 100 grain NOE bullets, I did not notice a increase in the lead dimensions or that they chamber any easier, they are still in that “putting a cork in a wine bottle category”.

I fully recommend the Wheeler engineering fire lap kit, but I would recommend cleaning every shot and not using the 220 grit.

Regards,

Roachcreek

VARIOUS RECOMMENDATIONS:

Cast bullet supplier that I recommend:
RJ PORTER – http://www.accuratebigboreairgunammo.webs.com/

Jack Haley Airguns (please read his webpage): ******MR HALEY PASSED AND THE WEBSITE NO LONGER EXIST – I CHOOSE TO KEEP IT UP******
http://www.southernairgunconversion.com/

CUSTOM 257 Air Force Condors: ******DOUG NO LONGER MAKES CUSTOM CONDORS******
Doug @ dyotat100@aol.com

For Hollow Pointing any bullet mold contact Eric at:
http://www.hollowpointmold.com/

.257 Barrels by TJ Enterprises

101 “QUICK TIPS/FACTS” about the 257

1. Best bang for your buck barrel in .257 is the TJ Enterprises barrel liner (Google this company name for pricing and phone number. No internet sales)
2. Common bore and groove dimensions are .250 BORE/.257 GROOVE
3. Common O.D. dimensions of TJ barrels tend to be roughly 9/16″ (.562″+-)
4. Pure Lead or 20-1 Lead seems to be the best to date
5. Hard Cast bullets don’t appear to be as accurate as Pure Lead in TJ’s barrel liners. But don’t discount harder cast bullets. These are firearm barrels.
6. Fire Lapping or Hand Lapping both work wonders in these barrels and are pretty much necessary to keep leading down and accuracy up
7. The more these barrels are shot, the more accurate they get
8. So far, accuracy is superb at velocities from 900 to about 1130 fps. More data to come. Please test velocity for your particular guns best accuracy
9. Various Air Guns and Barrel Manufacturers could be used for this project. The list is still growing.
10. To date, both the Condor and the Haley 257’s have hit Soda cans at 446, 502 and 552 yards!

IMO: Guns that DO and DON’T make for good 257 conversions
DOES – Jack Haley air guns (particularly the ones that fill to over 3600 psi)
DOES – DAQ air guns
DOES – Daystate Air Rangers (especially the 80 FPE version)
DOES – Daystate Wolverine 303 (expensive gun)
DOES – Big Bore EXTREME air guns
DOES – Korean Big Bore air guns (Shing Sun Career, Sumatra’s, Dragon Claws andSam Yang’s. And even the EVANIX 9mm guns)
DOES – XP Big Bore air guns including the Corsair
DOES – Air Force Condors
DOES – OF COURSE ANY CUSTOM BUILT or HIGHLY TUNED AIRGUN SUITED FOR MAKING SUCH POWER

DOES NOT – CALIBER CRICKETS (lol)
DOES NOT – EDGUNS
DOES NOT – FX BOSS 30 cal (too much restrictions within the guns internals)
DOES NOT – TOO MANY TO LIST HONESTLY (small bore air guns in general are not good for this conversion due to either TUBE size volume or internals that lack the ability to be highly modified. Many SB air guns are made for consistency while making 12-50 FPE of power and not 130-200 FPE)

***DISCLAIMER*** Due to a lack of knowledge on every single gun made today and also the machinist in existence and their capabilities, the above opinions are due to available current info and even the LACK OF. The sport is growing and the amount of people that are getting into 257 cal airgunning is steadily/slightly growing. So information is CREEPING in at a snails pace. But as more info comes out, the above listed info MIGHT change.

Game taken with the .257 cal.:




CUSTOM PARTS SECTION:
All parts by ADAM VIGIL (http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=9980):



http://www.maddogriflestocks.com/





MD stock on my TD257

Other Guns

All Replies

Viewing 15 replies - 226 through 240 (of 363 total)

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Howdy knife, definetly keep us posted on your progress and let us in on whatever new treasures that you find!

Sounds good Knife- keep the info coming!!! 😈 😈

by knifemaker Β» Tue Nov 11, 2014 11:02 pm

Well,I guess I will be finding out for myself. I think Randy is sending one out to me tomorrow to fit the 27 5/8″ (700MM) barrel in .257.

I fully fire lapped the barrel, and followed that with a good hand polishing of the bore with flitz.

So far, I would say that the results are very impressive indeed! Shot three groups hovering around .25″ center to center. What was very impressive, is that I shot three shots at three different targets. All shot in the same location, the same size. Which would translate to a 9 shot group of under .25″ at 80 yards. This was with the 80 gr. NOE flat point mold that I decked to 60 grains. It is giving me 930 fps at 3000 psi, and 950 at 3200 psi with a stock condor valve.

No doubt it will be in the 1080 range with a Dyotat valve. I will be testing a new offering from another vendor next week. Not as powerful as the Dyotat Valve, but with it’s own merits. It will be shipped with three different valve stems, each configured differently.
Fingers Crossed!!! πŸ˜‰

Knife

Up date, I’ve been testing the new valves and am pleased to say that they are doing very well indeed. So far, the 60 NOE is clocking in at 1030+ fps, and the new shroud, even thought the bullet passages are tiny, is allowing very good groups. Where it really shines, is that it is supported both at the rear barrel bushing,and the muzzle. This makes for a very rigid mount, and much less susceptible to knocks out in the field.

Much more to come after extensive testing this week!

Knife

I now have a second 80 gr NOE mold here that I would love to send to Eric for his magic! Bet it would be a fine addition. πŸ˜‰

Knife

ERIK AT HOLLOWPOINT MOLD SERVICES:

Knife said it right and I will say it again for you guys who are sending mold to Eric. After 2 PERSONAL screw ups with dimension of the HP cavities, I told Eric that from here on out, I will just send him the molds and he WILL make them the way he normally would if it were his mold! PERIOD!

Over many years from watching the accuracy results of not only my own projectiles that are HP’d, but others, a deep and wide HP will more often create INACCURACY more than it will ACCURACY. Of course though, the HP will for sure expand like crazy if the HP mouth and cavity are wide and deep but, I can guarantee ya, the accuracy will more than suffer.

To date, 1 of my 457 RCBS molds and 1 of my NOE 257 molds had the HP enlarged and made deep, the accuracy suffered majorly from when the bullets were solids. I personally took the pins to a grinder and polisher along with a good set of calipers and shortened the HP tip. I had eric make the tip of the pin go down to the first crimp groove on one of the bullets and that was too deep. That depth was about 3/8″ of the length of the entire bullet. WRONG MOVE! That was my 457 mold that you guys might have remembered from years back when I had my Haley 457. The 1st HP version was a disaster as far as accuracy but GOD DAMN that sumbitch could gut a huge jackrabbit and shred a gallon milk jug. The 1st version of that mold came out weight 285 gr in pure lead. Before ERIC’s HP mod that he followed my directions on, the solid FP version weight 325 grs. When I refinished the pin (shortened it), the final bullet came out to 310 grs. And i’m sure many of your remember how damned accurate that HP was as I posted results here a many a time even at 200 yards

With the Lyman 257420, I would honestly let Eric….DO WHAT HE DOES. Actually, on any mold that you send him.

quote knifemaker:

OK! I’ve now got her up to 1080 fps, with the 60 gr. NOE and she is more accurate than ever! Woo-HOO!!! :8:

Knife

Awesome!

OK! I’ve now got her up to 1080 fps, with the 60 gr. NOE and she is more accurate than ever! Woo-HOO!!! :8:

Knife

quote powderburner:

Ha

Its mold porn !!!!

Mold porn indeed. Looking forward to seeing the rubber meeting the road!

Ha

Its mold porn !!!!

Those are looking pretty darned Good Tedd!

I’ve been doing a lot of reading and research into cast bullets and it seem there is a formula that has been proven over the years as to the width of the matplat in relation to the dia. of the bullet.

And to the depth and width of the hollowpoint in relation to the accuracy potential of a given bullet and the velocities it is intended to be propelled too. Perhaps Eric, with haveing worked with the casting folks for so many year, has a much better handle on what will and what will not work.

He could be very well saving us from a lot of chaseing our tails by our trying to re-invent the wheel. What may look great to us on paper or in our imanation, may be terrible in practice. 😯

Kinda takes to fun out of the experminenting though. πŸ˜†

I have the talondor up to 1020 with the 60 grain NOE’s now, and still with very good accuracy. πŸ˜€ But no way I’m finished playing with ideas yet. Not by a long shot!

Manuela says Hi Tedd!!! πŸ˜€

Mike

Looks awesome Oldgoat!!!
Don’t keep the testing too long…

Butcher, I got my molds back from Erik today, just as I was leaving for work. I had to take them to work and check them out.

The top left one is my cut down Lyman 257420 mold with a wider meplat, I wanted Erik to extend the depth of the HP cavity on it also but, I guess that I didn’t make my self clear on that. The top left mold is also a cut down 257420 with the standard HP.

The bottom mold is a 4 cavity NOE 260 80Gr. RF alum mold. I wanted Erik to enlarge the meplat on 2 of the cavities and give them a deeper HP. The other 2 were supposed to have the standard HP added. I didn’t get the larger meplat on the 2 cavities on the left but, I did get a deeper HP. The right 2 are just the standard HP. Again Erik might not have understood what I was wanting but: I DID give him discretion on what he thought could be done for weight removal without affecting the 100 yard accuracy.

Erik told me that he thought that the cast slugs would shoot good and if I wasn’t happy with the size of the meplats and the depths of the HPs, I could return them and he would adjust them free of charge! I’m going to cast some pure lead and 20 to 1 bullets and see what they weigh. Still looking for a great 100 yard shooting slug that is in the 45-48 grain weight area.

So with more and more people doing this conversion, and for those that have been shooting awhile, Is there anymore info about muzzle brakes, or air strippers? One’s that work, ones that don’t etc. I asked this a while ago, but there wasn’t too much data out there. No worries about that, just wondering if anyone has made any leaps in this area as far as accuracy.
I’m also debating on whether or not to shroud it. Still in the process of building it, but steadily gathering parts! 😈 Just wanted some input. It’s going to have a 1-14 twist barrel, pretty much sticking with the 257420, with a 26″ barrel. Unfortunately it’s going to be a Talon sized frame 😑 because that’s as long as the raw extrusion I’m able to get…

quote knifemaker:

Don’t know when or how far back you heard this Butcher, but he has HP’d a crap load of NOE molds in aL. In fact, he just did more for Tofaz, and has done several for Old Goat and RC! :8:

Knife

Haven’t looked into it in like 2-3years……which is why I included the disclaimer lol.

Hi Mike. I have been trying to come up with a bullet that shoots really well out of my Matadors. The big dollars that I spent on RCE swaging equipment was just a waste of money. Horrible groups!

I need to slug my .257” barrels and send the slugs to Veral. I want a 4 cavity .258” version of the .250 cast bullet. When I get the mold in, I will send it out to Erik and have HPs added to it. I hope to be able to get it down to the 46-48 grain weight range. If it still comes out too heavy, I can cut some length off of the boat tail.

I have a 24” and a 28” long Hart .257” 1 in 14 inch twist barrels and the TJs 1 in 14” twist .257” barrel is 28” long.

I am going to send all 3 of them to Sean Pero and have him do the chambers and crowns. He does the chamber so that the cast bullet just starts to engage the rifling as the probe is fully pushed forward. The lead in then has a 2 degree taper for the bullet to ease into. My cut down Lyman, NOE an the Veral bullet, on paper, look like all 3 of them will just start to engage the rifling as the probe is fully closed.

It sounds something like a β€œfree bore” that the PB guys use.

I am also going to have Mike at TJs send Sean a 28” long 30 cal air gun barrel that the guys on the Gatewaytoairguns forum came up with a mandrel for. That barrel has a .294” land and a .300” groove with a 1 in 26” twist. I just have to have one to see how it does with the 30 cal 46,4 grain JSBs in my 30 cal R3 long.

I have to come up with something; I still haven’t heard from Doug that my .257” Talondor is ready for shipping!

EDIT: Erik has my 4 cavity NOE .257″ mold right now and he is goiing to make it to cast 2 different size/weight HPs. I hope that Erik can come up with something in the 46-48 grain area for me.

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