AF Loss-of-Velocity Help
I’ve never been into the internals of either my AA Condor (.25) or my Talon (.22). I haven’t shot them for about a year, but put both over the chrono over the weekend & can’t acheive any velocity . . . max of 458 fps with the Condor; <300 fps out of the Talon; both were >950 previously (with the same pellets respectively as before.). I’d suspect my fill SCBA tank/gauge, but it fills my Prod just fine (4000 psi remaining in the SCBA). I made NO mods to the Talon recently, but did install a 12″ barrel in place of the 21″ on the Condor; I anticipated a velocity loss, but not 500 fps. I’m assuming an o-ring leak due to sitting so long? I’ll take any and all suggestions & gratefully! If it is o-rings, what sizes/spec do I need?
Thanks in advance
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Viewing 13 replies - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)
I use grease lithium and polymers suff. Works great. But I don’t car if it mess up orings there cheap.
Stop lubing metal to metal contact with silicone…
Well, thanks for the tips, all. Thoroughly cleaned & lubed both guns (I can no longer claim to have never had an AF rifle completely disassembled). Put the old barrel back on the Condor . . . bolt is hanging with the new one; I’ll need to polish the hell out of it & try again. Didn’t set-up the chrony, but both are hitting hard again; I’ll play with tuning, chrony, and tophats this weekend if I get a chance.
several things it could be,
basically your valve is not opining enough,
, dirty sticky frame, not alloing the hammer free travel
,dirty sticky top hat not wanting to open
or you have too much air in the tank to allow the valve to open
, like you have 3100 psi in the tank,your hammer and spring will not open valve long enought for any kind of velocity
make sure of tank psi
get some oil on and around the top hat, pull it even and oil the shaft nicely
spray in the top of the frame and take a Q tip and bend it to work around the inside of the frame where the hammer rides, you can rotate the hammer also and make sure it’s nice and lubed in the frame with piece of plastic or something that will not gouge the rubber around the hammer.
check the bore and make sure its not lead fouled and oil it nicely also.
you can do all of this before pulling the gun apart. as long as it has not been sitting in the corner of the garage for a year you shouldnt have to pull it apart. 😀
like 80 said,check chrony with a springer or something that the velociy would not change on , listen to the pellets hit are they hitting lighter with less power or do they still sound the same.
Thanks for the replies, folks. GTBJ, that is refreshing . . . I’ll give that a go after I ensure my fill station is not the issue. Unfortunately, during the week I’m swamped, so it will have to wait ’til the weekend.
mine did that to me once, I tour it down, cleaned and lubed everything including the valve oring. also gave the frame a fresh coat of dry teflon… came right back to were it was
Chrony is good . . . clocked my Prod right where it should be & changed accordingly as I made adjustments. Chrony was also working properly at the range last weekend when I checked my varmint loads. It is odd that both guns went south at the same time, tho.
Seems odd that both rifles would go down at the same time. Can you check your chrony with a third rifle? Maybe the chrony is busted….
Stored in a dehumidified vault, not cocked. Lubed everything I can readily get at (silicone). Guess I’ll pull them apart this weekend. The only other change is I fill them now via an AF adapter & Foster fittings; I’ll try a fill the “old” way & see if that makes a difference.
You didn’t by any chance leave them cocked while put away during the year?
RC
try a spray lube first, lube everything.
the first thing i do when i loose , consistency is re lube
I’m thinking I would clean and lubricate the internals of it.
Viewing 13 replies - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)
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thats what she said 😆