Q:

Air Arms 410SL / 510 Regulator Installation

Got an Audrius Reg from CygnusX that he had imported via mule (mother in law).

Work is very nice

I’ve never had this rifle apart, have messed with the stock and other stuff but the gun has been in one piece since I got it in 2007 so all this was new to me.

After dry firing to empty the tank I loosened the two set screw’s on the barrel band.

That allows it to slide right off

This uncover’s two pin wrench hole’s in the fill valve assembly. I expected the fill end to unscrew but the entire tube unscrewed which ended up being a good thing.

Because it exposed this little peice I wasnt expecting.

Brass tube with a small hole in the end that I hadnt seen in any of the other 410 installation pic’s – appear’s to be a basic attempt at regulation but get’s in the way of the real reg I want to install.

Checked the T.W CHamber’s site (http://www.gunspares.co.uk/ great resource for Schematics and spares) and discovered that it is called the “firing pot” (PW175). It’s on the AA510 page as that is what the 410 Side Lever is called in the UK.

http://www.gunspares.co.uk/

Removed the gauge and loosened a small set screw which retained the pot in place.

I had hoped just to remove it, but it holds the valve return spring…..

The spring is retained by only a small portion of the “pot”, the extra is just an empty space so I chucked it in the lathe and parted the excess of.

This shows after parting and you can see the part that the spring is held up agaisnt

I faced off down to that shelf t get a much shorter pot.

That gave enough room for the regulators included spacer.

This is a string I shot before installation. 2900 PSI, JSB Exact’s

Shot fps ft/lbs
1 915 29.57
2 920 29.89
3 926 30.28
4 938 31.07
5 934 30.81
6 943 31.40
7 939 31.14
8 943 31.40
9 937 31.01
10 936 30.94
11 940 31.20
12 934 30.81
13 929 30.48
14 928 30.41
15 928 30.41
16 926 30.28
17 923 30.09
18 918 29.76
19 914 29.50
20 909 29.18
21 910 29.24
22 907 29.05
23 902 28.73
24 896 28.35
25 894 28.22
26 890 27.97
27 888 27.85
28 883 27.53
29 879 27.29
30 875 27.04

Unfortunatly the gauge o-ring had not been placed in the recess when it was installed so it was crushed and I couldn’t re-use it. Took my air compressor’s auto drain apart to find an o-ring that would work – but its still got an audible leak until the Hardware store opens.

This is string with regulator installed with a leak so I’d expect more shot’s. Same fill and pellet.

Shot fps ft/lbs
1 882 27.47
2 887 27.78
3 884 27.60
4 885 27.66
5 891 28.04
6 890 27.97
7 888 27.85
8 892 28.10
9 889 27.91
10 890 27.97
11 889 27.91
12 892 28.10
13 892 28.10
14 891 28.04
15 886 27.72
16 891 28.04
17 892 28.10
18 892 28.10
19 890 27.97
20 891 28.04
21 892 28.10
22 889 27.91
23 890 27.97
24 887 27.78
25 877 27.16
26 865 26.42
27 860 26.12
28 852 25.63
29 845 25.22
30 841 24.98

Seems to drop off the regulator around shot 25.

Chart of both results, unregged in Red, regged in Green.

Once I get a replacement gauge block o-ring I’ll do a new string which I expect to be a bit longer.

I’m happy with the string so will likely drill the vent hole in the air reservoir at some point (and possibly duracoat the tube as I’m sick of wiping it down after shooting).

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Viewing 11 replies - 31 through 41 (of 41 total)

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but the curve thingy does look sweet !

the holes in the my picture is 8-10mm i think….is actually a pictures of what a btaf or what ever thats dude mod is….and it is to increase flow

so the 2 holes on each side of the return spring vent directly into the spring

from the side so the air doesnt have to go through the “pot” which is just a spring retainer now

this is done as when the pressure gets low it looses speed, but this is acounted for letting the air bypass the pot and come in directly from the sides….as far as i understand from the danish forum

in short it is not just to increase volume, but get the air to flow in from the sides

heres a picture that shows how deep its done

Ah, man that’s wicked… The curved mod is sweet… 😯

I had to fix one of my cars today so didnt get much done.

I beleive the holes in the picture Cygnusx posted arew 8mm diameter. I’d drill them to around 10mm to avoid drilling into anything important.

By my math that gives 8mm x 3.142 x 3.142 x 10mm deep x 3 Holes = 2369.31936 mm^3

in cubic inches according to google that = 0.161 Cubic Inches

Using solidworks I got this shape which has a volume of 0.12 Cubic Inches

I’m going to mill some extra slot’s which should bring it up to 0.16 or more extra volume.

Cut 4 rod’s and milled them to the same length so that the valve body would be held square in my vice.

Started milling using shape from Solidworks.

Also cut away the side’s of the firing pot.

Which give’s me this so far

Still need to drill the vent hole in my air tube…

With 8gr pellets out of my Carbine, I’m getting around 680fps….

I’ve not done a proper string, just shoot 10-20 times and recheck… I dont want to waste air with it, but it’s very consistent… just not the velocity I wanted.

This one is set at 120bar out. My one in my MPR is set at 100 bar out and I get 115 shots at 13fpe with it…. same size tube as is on my carbine, but longer barrel so I would imagine I should be able to get around 100 shots at 12fpe with it…. one would think.

Didnt mess with it this weekend, sick all weekend…. 😥

quote rob3dr:

Looks good…. I had the same problem with that brass part in my Carbine and I did the same thing you did, except I used a hack saw and a dremel… 😳

My velocity is piss poor though and I’m not sure why.

The S400MPR I regged turned out beautifully… not sure what the problem with this one is.

What velocity are you getting and what’s your string look like.

Cyg – I’ll shoot another string once I’ve fixed the leak – that should give me a few more shot’s. Then I’ll have a better position to start figuring out how to increase shot down. Will likely drill and then finish with CNC the recess in the picture you posted.

Could also make a new brass plug and cut the spring down a bit to fit new plug while being compressed a bit more so it closes the valve faster.

Good info YN and Cygnus…. I will have mine to install in the Beeman Falcon
next week…. Your results look promising…. Can’t beat it for $100.00.

Looks good…. I had the same problem with that brass part in my Carbine and I did the same thing you did, except I used a hack saw and a dremel… 😳

My velocity is piss poor though and I’m not sure why.

The S400MPR I regged turned out beautifully… not sure what the problem with this one is.

16 grains fx pelletl (jsb) m/s:
278,9
279,5
280,9
281,7
281,3
280,4
281,3
283,5
281,6
280,8 10 shots
278,0
280,0
280,3
279,8
280,7
280,4
279,7
280,1
281,0
281,3 20 skud
280,8
281,2
280,3
280,3
279,4
279,8
281,7
280,6
279,9
279,0 30 skud
282,1
280,7
280,6
281,3
280,7
281,0
280,1
281,4
281,0
283,1 40 skud
280,0
283,6
282,1
280,7
280,2 45 shots and down from there
276,8
274,9

270 m/s = 885 fps so you have the power…so its wasting air somewhere….maybe try put a shim under the return spring to make the valve close faster…..and mill out a bigger prechamber

looks like you need a bit more regged air, by removing more of the brass nipple. and mill out around the brass

the guys on the danish forum are getting around 50-60 shots at 270

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Viewing 11 replies - 31 through 41 (of 41 total)

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