Air Arms S410 FAC custom barrel shroud band
My S410 FAC kept giving me point-of-impact changes every time its barrel shroud was bumped even by a decent amount of force. The original band with the O-ring was not doing its job of returning the barrel to its original position. So, I installed a custom-made piece with grub screws on four sides to eliminate this problem. The custom piece was done by one of the members at the AAOC a couple of years ago. It works really great. Check out the photos below.
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That is a magnificent 50-yard group, Riff! I agree, the band is indeed a weak POS link. I have the older S410 with the plastic barrel bushing in the shroud. That part can crack too. I am looking for a metal version of it. Do you know anybody who can fabricate such a part?
I would have to say no. This rifle shoots so well I havent moved the scope in over a year.
The sleeve that is over the air tank is 1.25″ ID and it was a perfect fit. Slides over with no wobble, but not too tight. The bonding only is between the shroud tube, and that sleeve. The sleeve is secured to the band between the cap and the end of the tank, and that band has 2 large o-rings between the threads and its ID so the sleeve actually floats. The band is a very tight fit inside the sleeve and they are grub screwed together for added security.
Works like a dream.
I made an aluminum insert that the tip of the barrel fits into. The insert acts as a centering device, so clipping is never an issue.
I carried this 10 shot 50 yard group around in my wallet so long it finally disintegrated. LOL
It shoots like this every day with both weight JSBs, 22 caliber.
Didnt mean to overrun your thread. Its just the barrel band is the one weak link on rifles of this type and looks like we both fixed it. 😉
Looks good, Riff. So that bond between the shroud and air tube doesn’t lower or elevate the shroud/barrel during pressure drop/rise of the air tube?
I had the same problem so I made a new shroud that works better and completely solved the POI change problem. Glass and pillar bedding the stock helped a bit too, really made the rifle a repeatable tack-driver.
First attempt at concept. (just a pliable epoxy, peeled right off)
Second revision test fitting, pre-bonding. I know the carbon weaves are different, but its painted matte black now anyway.
Grub screw is tightened into a collar that fits over the threaded end. Grub screw does not damage the tank. (seen in previous pic)
After bonding, pre-paint. I have no other pictures of it, but it worked superb.
Bedding. Stock is matte black now though.
No, I haven’t considered using rubber to eliminate the gaps around the shroud because it would just generate hassle when I need to remove the entire assembly in the future. I’d really like to tap and die the original collar, but the top part that holds the shroud is too thin and may break if I do so. Also, given that it’s too thin, there are only so many threads I can put into the screw inlet.
Ah, at the angle, I do see it. 😳
Have you tried a piece of rubber tube between the set screws and the shroud?
There are four grub screws that hold the barrel shroud in place, and they are set diagonally; two diagonally on the top left and right and two diagonally on the bottom left and right (you can see the screw inlet in the first photo). The bottom hole that holds the air tube in place has three screws; there are two grub screws on each side and one on the bottom. All of these grub screws hold both the shroud and tube end very securely.
Very nice solution!!
My 400 has two allen screws at the airtube collar. Which only hold the band off center if it gets bumped even a little.
Are the upper screws just to keep it centered or is there another screw at the bottom of the barrel?
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Greg Davis made my baffle insert for me but I have lost his contact info. He mods rifles, or at least used to. You might find info on him if you visit http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/.
I can’t bring myself to say the forum name. LOL