Q:

AirBorne Arms Co .25cal Benchrest build

My next build on the bench has been more than 3 years in the planning and design stage.. not because it overly complicated or fancy, in fact its a very simple design, but I had been waiting for JSB to design and manufacture an new heavy weight high BC .25cal Diabolo pellet suitable to my needs.
Some of you know I have always pushed the 18.1gr .22 pellet to the extreme range of its capabilities and made kills just past 200m but have always pondered what a heavier .25 cal could achieve.
The .25cal JSB king is limited by a relatively low BC (in fact its almost the same as the 18gr .22 pellet)
so 200m is about its limit for reasonable accuracy and energy retention.
Well JSB have finally got on board and released a very high BC 34gr heavy .25 cal pellet that has me excited again to push the modern PCP boundaries and capabilities.

Soooo.. I have under way a .25cal Benchrest build that will push the new .34gr JSB pellets past 75ftlbs with the goal of MOA past 300m.
On paper and running the figures through ballistic programs it looks very doable and my early and very crude test platform for this new pellet has landed 5 shot shot just outside of 4 inches at 300yds.

http://www.airgunnation.com/topic/jsb-new-heavy-25-cal-kings-100-yards-half-inch-group-and-normal-kings-group/page/2/

The platform will be running a fast twist BSA barrel a Huma regulator and hold 580cc of on board air.
Although this with primarily be a bench rifle its likely to get plenty of pest control work too so it will be light enough to carry in the field and set up on a hill side some where to pop long range bunnies.

This build started with a hunt for suitable air cylinder materials. It needs a big supply if I want to shoot it un tethered or I will be forever filling it so even 300cc in my std air tubing wouldn’t cut it on this build.
I considered a 500cc Carbon fibre bottle for a moment trying to push past the ugliness of the “supersoaker” look but once a reg is added it can get very long and IMO not very safe having a high pressure reg suspended out the front off std low pressure paintball threads that these regs come with. this also would require about 70-80cc of plenum space to some how be incorporated behind the reg to get my desired velocity and economy.
Instead I have opted for a much larger alloy tube that will incorporate a Huma reg and large plenum in front of an off set valve.
Here’s the tube next to my std tube;

Here’ the front plug that will incorporate a 28mm Wika 350bar (5000psi) gauge and an 8mm fill probe port.
The first pic shows one of my std 1″ front plugs next to it:

The larger tubing exposes the end plugs to a much higher stress so larger and more pins are needed to keep the same safety factor.

With the front plug finished and fitted I moved onto the regulator and monster plenum.
Here’s the plenum nearly finished (still needs O ring grooves and atmospheric vent port) next to a .25cal Huma Marauder plenum for scale.

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Final cuts on all the O ring grooves and fill probe/reg breather holes which completed the front plug, regulator and plenum.

Once hydro tested the cyl got an overnight 3400psi leak down test which it has passed. I will run another leak down of the low pressure regulated side also once all reg and valve parts are fitted.

Set up the 4 jaw chuck to finish of the valve body with the off set port.
I have offset and recessed the valve seat to keep the transfer port as short as possible to keep this .25 monster as economical as it can be. The shortest and straightest air path to the pellet will use less air and lower reg pressure to achieve the high velocities and highest shot count.
I am using a raised 45 degree valve seat with a 90 degree contact face to make the most of a regulated 130bar quick plenum dump.

The final sized valve seat port was then cut.

Refitted the 3 jaw chuck and it was on to the valve poppet.
Im using an 1/8″ stainless steel rear sprung stem running inside a brass sleeve to keep it slick.
I threaded it and wound on a brass nut then turned it down for a small shoulder to stop the stem hammering through the Delrin poppet over time.

Decided to push the cupped face of the valve back as far as i could to gain another 15cc to the plenums size.
It now holds a total of 70cc of regged air. 75ftlbs here I come!

Mods/Machinists

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Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 21 total)

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Is this still on the go or on the back burner?

Enjoyed following this one.

Regards,

DT

quote MJP:

Any progress with the build? Looking forward seeing one more of your beautiful guns.
Marko

Hey Marko,
Haven’t done much to be honest as I have been super busy with other work. the breech is 90% done and I have a Timney trigger to fit up..
I had another .25cal pistol to throw together for a guy too so this one took a back seat..
Will get back on to it once I get a few weeks off over December and January.

Any progress with the build? Looking forward seeing one more of your beautiful guns.
Marko

quote Wingman NZ:

Thanks Marko,
I use the cap screw pinning to retain the plugs as it is much stronger than threading in this material. With threading you lose some of the tubes wall thickness lowering the tubes yield strength. This tube would have no issues with a 9000psi test

Putting the o-ring before the thread in the tube wouldn’t lower the yield strength and would make for a cleaner look, not that yours look unclean. Just more to my liking I guess.
I’m threading all my tubes and can test to 10000psi without problem on the threads.
What material are you using on the tubes, 7075 t6?
You have inspired me to start a 9mm pistol build for myself.
Marko

Hello everybody. I was in Vietnam , I enjoyed homemade airguns . this is my project


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quote MJP:

That is some good looking machning, and nice designs you have. One thing than puzzles me is the air tube ends, why using bolts to secure them and not threading?
Marko

Thanks Marko,
I use the cap screw pinning to retain the plugs as it is much stronger than threading in this material. With threading you lose some of the tubes wall thickness lowering the tubes yield strength. This tube would have no issues with a 9000psi test

That is some good looking machning, and nice designs you have. One thing than puzzles me is the air tube ends, why using bolts to secure them and not threading?
Marko

600 ? damn wingman, I just bought one for 130 USD :suprisedn: None the less I love the build.

Plastic AR bits really arent my thing.. that and I refuse to pay $600 USD for that cheeply made mass produced
Lego part when Ive so far only spent $35 on the whole build.

Heres one for sale in NZ:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/sports/hunting-shooting/firearm-parts/stocks-grips/auction-1158318459.htm

Us could use the Magpul PRS. Very nice on a bag.

This rifle does have the AR15 thread for this stock to fit up (as much as I really dont like the AR platform) and will get a roll over Wenge wood cheek rest and custom Wenge target grip. The AR stock options are all too light and mostly plastic and none sit in a rear bag very well..
Since this rifle is mainly for bench use and attempting to smash some range records Im not too worried if its a looker.. this ones all about function and performance.

Phil, you should put a 6 position AR-15 stock on that gun rather than the one have shown. I can send you one if you don’t have access to them. The threads are simple and you would just need a hinged female thread with a castle nut. The sky is the limit then for stock options

that sure is a nice build you have there! wouldn’t mind having that crappy machine and tooling along with your talents. thanks for the read.

Project is a little stalled as I am waiting for a friend with a CNC router to cut some of my 38mm thick 7075 T6 alloy tooling plate into some smaller manageable sizes that my mill will handle.
So in the down time i have put together a basic bench rest adjustable stock.
After ripping down some 16mm alloy plate I roughed out the curves and finished it on the linisher.
I had first intended on using hollow tube for the stock parts but have decided on solid 6061 T6 1″ and 5/8″ solid round bar as I need a little more weight in the rear to balance the heavier front end cylinder.
Its still surprisingly light and may need some additional ring weights added to the lower rear bag tube once its all cut to length, fitted and tested on the rifle.

I have also milled the rear valve/plug down to an inch to mate up to the receiver with a forward drop angle that challenged me and my little milling machine a bit I have to admit. I wanted to add a little shape and some angles rather than the usual basic lines. It should come together well with the trigger guard design and lower bipod picatinny rail mount etc.

This looks like it’s going to be amazing!!

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