Aluminum Marauder Stock $249.00
That’s for the base stock, not the butt piece or whatever he has under the picatinny rail forearm. You buy your own butt stock, and cheek rest. AR grip included in price.
I plan on buying this. The unit is constructed from an aluminum I beam. He’s going to send pictures to me after it is anodized. He is a CNC machinest and has a limited supply available, but will cut more if there is interest.
Contact: David Soza <daskinetic@gmail.com>
Anyway, here’s his writeup:
I thought I’d share what I’ve been up to. As much as I like the Marauder, I found the stock essentially useless. I like stocks that fit. This one has a modular aluminum chassis that accepts any standard AR-15 stock and grip. It also has an adjustable grip mount so I can adjust the distance that my finger has to reach the trigger. It slides in a slot along the bottom of the stock. The buttstock of course is adjustable for LOP, cheek height and cheek position. The forend has a picatinny rail so I can add a light, bipod, camera, or whatever. I can also add any forend grip I want and position it where I want. The end result is a rifle that is not a close fit, but an EXACT fit. The difference in the way the rifle handles is amazing. I’m primarily a hunter, but having a good fit is an advantage IMO no matter what your target. This configuration weighs about the same as the factory stock, but I could use lighter components and get the weight down even lower. I’ll probably do that on my carbine. The way I designed the furniture connections, I could also build wood furniture very easily if I choose. I have 3 rifles to outfit so they will all get slightly different treatment. This stock just went out for anodizing so it will look alot better when it returns. This pic was raw aluminum. I could remove the buttstock and have a REAL Marauder pistol, but that doesn’t really interest me because it would be quite a hogleg.
Edit: That hand grip/trigger guard interface looks strange because David wanted a specific distance for his unique trigger finger placement. Mine would butt up against the trigger guard, and look more one piece in construction.
Kindly ‘Ol Uncle Hoot
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Jeez and I thought The WOK adapter was too canted 🙄 🙄 🙄 🙄 🙄 🙄 🙄 🙄
SAW
I just mean something to fill in the gap between the trigger guard and the grip – But from Teryx’s post he wanted to make it modular with option to mount wood so he couldn’t have filled that gap with alu without making that more difficult.
Its only minor aesthetics I guess… so I retract my previous post.
You can’t see this from the picture, but there is an aluminum connector block that the grip attaches to. That block slides in the frame, so when you move it back as shown, there will be a gap. That gap could be filled though very easily once you set the distance where you want it. All you would need is a piece of 3/8″ phenolic, wood, plastic, or anything, and it could fit into the groove ahead of the connector block. It’s purely cosmetic because your finger wouldn’t rest on it anyway.
Often, when custom parts are designed, they use odd dimensions , weird thread sizes, and other things that make customizing tough. I’ve avoided those sorts of things as best I could so people can add their own touches, like a spacer block, without owning a machine shop.
Teryx
Jeez and I thought The WOK adapter was too canted 🙄 🙄 🙄 🙄 🙄 🙄 🙄 🙄
SAW
I just mean something to fill in the gap between the trigger guard and the grip – But from Teryx’s post he wanted to make it modular with option to mount wood so he couldn’t have filled that gap with alu without making that more difficult.
Its only minor aesthetics I guess… so I retract my previous post.
Is that MROD barrel choked, and if so, what other shorter barrel options exist for it?
I think it kind of resembles a mini-14, so I submit it be called the :
“MROD-14”
Jeez and I thought The WOK adapter was too canted 🙄 🙄 🙄 🙄 🙄 🙄 🙄 🙄
SAW
Thanks for the warm welcome! I must say, I have to compliment you guys on your avatars 😎 No wonder Hoots hangs out here 😆 Hoot gave the link to get here. I’ve heard of the forum, but assumed it was just a “talon” thing. I’m sure Hoot will fill you in when he gets his stock.
RE: the bullpup design. I actually did consider that, but bullpups have so many problems unless the rifles are designed from the ground up as bullpups. Operation of the bolt is impossible without taking the rifle off your shoulder and changing your hand position. It makes follow up shots very slow and clumsy. The safety is difficult to operate, and scope mounting is a real problem. I really feel a carbine in the Marauder format is a much better deal. I’m going to build one for myself, and a lighter rifle as well
The basic design of the stock I have could be adapted to almost any PCP. It would require different inletting for each application. It really just depends on whether enough demand exists. I would need at least 20 or 25 orders of a particular model to make it worth the engineering and prototyping cost. I’ll see how the Marauder goes. I’ve been in manufacturing for many years, so the items I produce are all professionally done. No corners cut. The AR format is hard to beat, it’s so universal.
Thanks,
Teryx
Success!!!
Nice work Teryx! Thanks for stopping by and giving us the run down.
Hoot,
I though your original plan is convert this “Marauder” to Bullpup stock, how does it ended up with this stock?
Teryx,
You stock look very cool “Tactical”, is it possible to custom an aluminum bullpup stock for “Marauder”?
Hey Teryx,
Welcome to the TAG. I complement you on your work and skills.
I wish I could mod these guns like some of you guys. I really like
those AR15 butt-stocks, hopefully I will see someone make an
airgun with one that fits my needs. That Mrod there is pretty close.
Keep us up to date here on your work. With your skills you could
be getting alot of business in the future.
Matthew
Hi Guys,
I’m the one building the stocks. I just wanted to clarify a couple of points. I’m building the airtubes for myself, not for sale. Too much liability in pressure vessels for me. The Mrod airtube is steel, not aluminum so there is a significant weight savings. About 1-1/4 pounds. Someone may offer such a tube at some point, but the cost would be high. The high strength seamless alloy needed costs close to $4 an INCH. I think Greg Davis has plans for some custom steel tubes, so he may be willing to do some Ti as well. I can’t speak for him though. Ti is more flexible for the same profile, but I don’t see that as a problem for my purposes. In any case, I’ll work through all that on mine. Another option that would be feasable for some is to shorten the existing airtube. Cutting 6 inches drops 9oz, and it’s off the end of the rifle where the difference can really be felt!
With regard to the stock, it will come fully anodized and assembled with a grip, and all the needed hardware (no buttstock). The grip is the standard M4 model sold by Rock River Arms. You can get a good 6 position buttstock like the one shown for $49. I’ve seen 4 position models down around $39. I think the adjustable cheek piece was $30, but a foam rubber pad would work too. You don’t need much if any lift because I purposely positioned the stock at about the right height. The grip has a gap between the trigger guard because it is adjustable for position. You can move it right up to the trigger guard, or back even farther than shown. That allows you to set the finger distance right where you want it. The threaded buttstock adaptor block is removable so you then have a shelf where wood furniture could be attached without any complicated milling. The grip attachment and forend are also made so that a home shop mechanic could build wood components to fit easily.
The intention was to make the chassis a user friendly basic building block with all the hard work done, so that people could go wild from there. I hope to see some nice customs built. It’s a precision drop in fit with power screw access, and it is inletted for the stock trigger guard. Tightening the buttstock requires a $6 AR-15 spanner wrench if you don’t already have one. There are tons of used AR components floating around if you look too. I only built 25, and 3 or 4 are for me. I may or may not build more. Thanks!
Teryx
Ti weighs more than Alu. and one half the weight of steel. 😉
MIke
Mike, the Mrod air tube is steel. It’s far too thin to hold 3k psi to be aluminum. An example, the pony bottles we used in scuba were a minimum of 1/4″ to 3/8″ thick, depending on fill psi. He has owned manufacturing facilities, and he knows more than me, for sure.
Further, he said he took six inches off the end of the air tube, and it made a serious difference in Mrod balance. The Mrod is seriously front heavy. IMHO.
Ti should be half the weight of the current tube. As for flex, in a short cylinder, I don’t believe it is a problem. The Ti he uses is tested to 90,000 psi. Personally, I never fill that high!
Weight is critical in air rifles and women.
Ti…if it’s good enough for fighter jets and nuclear submarines, it’s good enough for me. If it blows up and kills me, I’ll know better next time!
Hoot 😯
PS: I think Nancy Pelosi draws flies.
Doesn’t Ti flex more as well… 😕
Hoot, Isn’t the M-Rod’s tube alu.?
Ti weighs more than Alu. and one half the weight of steel. 😉
MIke
Not to mention cross compatible with other items one may own… If I had an AR variant it would be a great excuse to get another butt stock.
Looking forward to the photos Hoot and a review! 🙂
Very Nice!
No Joe, No Joe, you don’t need to buy an MROD!
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I though your original plan is convert this “Marauder” to Bullpup stock, how does it ended up with this stock?
With one screw removal, I can change to either stock. Who says you can’t have both?
By the way, the barrel on the Mrod is choked. Bear in mind that it costs exactly $24.00 to replace (American Made) you can understand why Greg Davis offers an LW replacement. The Mrod barrel is fine, unless you want to get genuinely serious with target shooting accuracy. 35 yard head shots on squirrels have been commonly reported with the stock barrel. How many of us really need to hit a squirrel in the eye at that distance?
The barrel can be shortened by milling the breech end, but you might lose fps per inch cut. Greg Davis said he gained 90 fps by adding each inch of LW barrel, over the stock Mrod 20″ barrel. I assume you will lose something going the opposite direction.
My problem with the stock Mrod is it being a beast in length and weight. However, it’s so damnable quiet and accurate, even with that cheap barrel, it’s just fun to shoot, especially with a 10 shot clip that works well.
For the $399 purchase price, I’m going to do some experiments with it. A shorter barrel, means a shorter shroud = same quiet, less weight/length, better balance. With a 3000 psi fill, I feel any fps loss could be mostly regained with the three adjustments available, provided you don’t go nuts on how short you make the barrel. Greg will custom cut the LW barrel to any length you want.
One thing for sure, that massive stock has to go first! It’s like trying to grip a 2″ X 6″.
I’d modify my dick, if I could get the right tools! It’s a disease!
Kindly ‘Ol Uncle Hoot 😯