Q:

Another adjustable buttplate…

Hello Guys,

I got so inspired from Buba B’s excellent adjustable Butt plate that I had to design similar for myself (sorry for copy of design Buba but it just looked so great that I couldn’t resist). Buttplate has been in my todo-list from the beginning since the standard plate just … well you all know what I mean.

I tried to make shape little simpler since I have to machine it myself with manual milling machine. Also added some adjusting for shoulder shape. This may look little small but I used dimensions from my shoulder and I am not such a big dude.

All the screws are M4 hexagon socket head cap screw so it’s easier to adjust on the field with same key. Axle screws are also used for locking the big ring over bottle cover.

I hope I can start machining today. Gonna post some pictures when it’s ready (if it turns out to be showable 🙂 )

Now would be a great time to share some tips or suggestions before I start milling in the evening.

Mods/Machinists

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Viewing 15 replies - 31 through 45 (of 66 total)

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I got nothing…. Way beyond my ablities here. I just like throwing out random junk…

At least online someone tells me why its not that good an idea. When I’m in my shop I learn the hard way after a few hours of machining….

Looks better than your last go , if you had only milled the corners and got the needle files out ,you would have got the finish you want . Its the way to do it if you want it quick , just dont have a TIG welder 👿 damit !
I did think of screwing the blocks on but you would need a thicker ring to take the thread or countersunk screw head . The stock is taking alot of force at that point ,so you could rip the screws out ! .You would lose the thiness of the ring too as youve still got to put 2 clamping screws through the same part that youre bolting the blocks to the ring. But im open to clever ideas! anyone !!!! 😀

Couldnt you just screw it on?

quote JimW.:

Yeah, welding alum is tough and more so when it is thin. The weld spot is so small I though I was imagining stuff and after the black ano is it not noticeable at all.

I got grab of better welder. Not TIG but MIG with aluminium wire. Overshoot the weld and chamfers to leave little room for machining. Then I got lazy and instead of carefully milling everything I just turned the front and back surfaces and belt sanded rest. It shows in the results too but at least it works and after anodization I can live with it. I just wish I’d have time and dedication for Buba’s quality finishing 😥

Now it fixes perfectly over bottle cover. The tolerance is very tight because same clamp is used for bottle and axle. Unless one try it out it’s difficult to imagine how much it improves the hold and aiming. IMHO modding the butt is the first things one should do along with the trigger mod.

-mcMike

Yeah, welding alum is tough and more so when it is thin. The weld spot is so small I though I was imagining stuff and after the black ano is it not noticeable at all.

TIG welder does aluminum but I think you have to have different gas and a shield or something, I am familiar with thin wall CroMo and Ti welding mostly for bicycles, aluminum frames would need to be heat treated to avoid falling apart at the welds.

Beautiful work Mike!!

Jim

quote JimW.:

Is this round tube stock welded to a billet part? This would be the quickest and cost effective way to mass produce these…
Orange scribble around possible weld…

Jim, Yes it is.
The thing is that welding aluminium requires it’s own equipment which I don’t have access. It is possible to weld with standard welding machine and with dedicated hmm.. what you call that long stick that melts during welding? 😀

In that proto I made two mistakes 🙁 (we all learn by experience don’t we?). First was to make the ring too close to final dimensions before welding (too thin). The welding methods produces so much heat that it is difficult to keep the material from melting too much and produce a decent weld. The second was error in design and I made the darn ring too small overestimating the compression of the rubber.

Yesterday I started to make two new rings. I left the thickness of ring for 15mm so it’s easier to weld. After that the inner diameter is turned to final size. I also try to weld it so that I can machine the weldment to look better.

I also had made a CNC code for highspeed milling machine (45.000 RPM) so that it can be milled from 100mm solid axle. The code will just mill the outer shape and the holes. The split and side holes needs to be manual since the machine is only 2.5D. Btw, it’s pretty nice to drop a solid 3D-model from CAD to milling machine and basicly just aid the machines program to decide best milling process. Gotta take some pictures of the process too. The problem is that the HS milling machine is under heavy usage and I can have access window to it only after 2-3 weeks. And I can’t use it myself but luckyly the operator is a teammate from our floorball team and helps me out with it.

I have a new idea how to make it very easily and cheaply. It’s not as nice but the price should be fraction of solid part. I will post design pics later.

-Mike

Is this round tube stock welded to a billet part? This would be the quickest and cost effective way to mass produce these…

Orange scribble around possible weld…

Jim

well lads what can i say about the rings i got from buba lllllllllllllloooooooovvvvvvveeeeeeeeeelllllllllyyyyyyyyyyy .. i,ll get some pics up soon lads

Tube would be the answer ,but the problem for me is to order that size tube 😯 ££££ or get some off cuts . To make it out of plate would take quite abit of work . Ive only got a 8inch swing on my lathe ,so it s getting towards the tricky end 😕 lol . Need to face plate mount it ! and its quite a mass to swing around on my small m/c. 😯
Maybe heating and bending the alloy plate 😯 ( i no this is tricky) il have to have a read up.
Stainless for the ring would be a better chioce the welding route , but i prefer the machining way ,avoids all the distortion with welding thin metal , and better finish.
I did some rings for Rabbits that took abit less time to make ,so think its gona get quicker , but yes they do take time on a rotary table.
EDM is the way to go ! (wire erosion cutting) be faster than CNC, with cleaner surface finish , but need to make a home built EDM M/C or get a big order for that 😀
Have to stick with making them handmade for the moment ! 😕
PM me if you want one made and were talk about what specs you want . Think about £80 + postage and two week delivery time, depends on wot you want. Terms and conditions apply hehe 😀

Very impressive! I’m interesting purchasing the tank mounting bracket at this time since the total assembly seems to be in the offing. Quote a price and a delivery date please. Any takers? AKULA

quote Shadoh:

Instead of milling a half round you could cut up some thick walled round tube ally. …
The tight ring you have shown would lock to the shoulder but would it be comfortable or easily shouldered?

In that pic it is likely too tightly curved. I designed it to be made from 150mm diameter AL axle since I don’t have problem with material 😉
But it can also be done form 25mm plate and just saw it off.

rabbits; thx for compiments. I am just throwing ideas to get feedback. Better this way than spend time making one and finding it’s not good because I couldn’t think all the aspects.

Buba; Like shadow said you could use 150/100 tube and make two from one cut. Or simply go for plate. I need to think easier way to make that tank connector ring. It’s too difficult to make now. Either with milling from one part or welding from two separate parts. I don’t have access to good al welding equipment. Maybe it could be made from steel. Then it would be a lot easier to weld. Could use also thinner material.

Instead of milling a half round you could cut up some thick walled round tube ally. I would go with something larger so the curve is not so tight. You could get three or four BUTT ends out of one section of ring.

The tight ring you have shown would lock to the shoulder but would it be comfortable or easily shouldered?

mike mate your full off idea,s and designs another nice one mate welldone

I like the more angeled look of the FT type personaly but can see that your new design will hold onto the shoulder better. Dont think it will be easier to make thou and your going to use alot of metal to get the round shape. But il wait until your done one and maybe your tell me im wrong. Ive got an FT stock on the go but im looking for something more grippy to fix to it, but until i get my gun together i cant tell if the stock fits /grips and balances well 🙁 Take it easy 😀

Hi Guys,

Buba; I made new minimalistic and very simple design in case you wish to make these for sale. This should be quite a lot easier, faster and cheaper to manufacture. The round buttplate can be made from aluminium + rubber (red in pic) or even single part plastic.

Customer could measure his/her shoulder “diameter” with for example cardboard silhuette and also drop from centerline so you could tailorize the fit. Also you can play with angles for how far “over” shoulder backplate will reach from top and below.

The axle is just press fitted to 16mm bottom hole. With al that should be enaugh but with plastic maybe it needs couple of set screws from both sides.

The idea with “over 180-degree reach” design is to fix your hold everytime to exact same position and improve accuracy.

I think I will do one for myself to see how it feels. The FT-style is ok but not perfect.

-Mike

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