Q:

B40

some of you have allready my lube thread this is kinda of a follow up

trigger is sort of sirted….it could be better…the AA410 feelig went away once trigger got under real pressure, but its till miles ahead of the stock trigger….

i wont do a review of the rifle…plenty of those around, but i will tell what i have done to it to make it just a little better

heres the rifle

heres the temperature in the garage with port open….when it was time to assemble i had to close ports to stop prying neighbour eyes from thinking im building weapons….and thernometer reached 109f arghhh that is freaking hot….and i was drenched in sweat after 20-30 test shots….

ok so heres what the rifle went through
to remove stock 4 screws must go..piece of cake…remember loctiting them when assembling…they will rattle loose otherwise


the trigger group is held by one single screw in front of the trigger assembly….theres very little pressure on the piston spring…so its easy to just hold a hand over the trigger goup and let it extend…nothing violent here

heres the spring is fully streched…only couple of inches, and when assembling an be pressed back in place with one and and screw put back in with the other…unless your an 8 year old kid with no muscles.

out comes trigger group

main spring with quides

closer look at front and rear guide….front guide is a tad loose might machine a tighter fitting unit for it…rear guide is fitting nicely no play really a loose pressfit if i can call it that

to get the compression chamber out some suggest removing the c clips, but i find it easer to just knock out the crosspin, its allready soo loose i had to give it dab of loctite to keep it in place…so a little knock with a rubber mallet and a screwdriver and it came right out


now the compression tube can be removed…

heres the piston after it was pullet from the compression tube, not how it has a delrin/teflon guide riding inside the compression tube as well as one riding outside it

some mixed pictures of the piston seal and guide


everything filled with this brown gunk…didnt feel greasy…felt more like glue residue, evaporated machining fluid, burnt oil ….

the endcap of the compression tube had to come off

they had obviosly used some threadlock, but there some rubber in those threads too !!!????

this was the sight the greeted me when it finally came off

looks like pulverized oring and glue residue….plus some threadlock gunk

compression tube was pretty rough…looked like a galvanized tube…with more of this brown gunk burt to the sides


ok i only got a few more pictures…as this is the time things get messy with polishing compounds, and grease…and i dont wanna get that stuff on my camera

to polish the inside of the tube i tightly wrapped some fleece around an aluminum rod i had, and taped it in place….filled it up with crome prolish which is a mild sanding compound….and the polishing commenced…it was enough to get the brown crap out of there…so the felt got a layer of 2000 grit sand paper and i honed it carefully, in the lathe…spinning at low rpm…moving the compression tube back and fourth making sure not to sand one place more than the other…that helped…then the crome polish came into action again…and tube was very shiny and clean after that, allthough some spots that looked liked it was galvanized was still in there, but nothing i could do about them without increasing the ID of the tube…


outside of the compression tube which is visible got polished up too just for the looks of it.

inside of the rifle body there was clear scratch marks from where the compression tube glides when it gets cocked…so that got honed as well

everything got lubed with the honda moly the inside of the compression tube got a layer that was then dried away with paper towel…this i think will leave just a tiny coating there, side of seal got a thin layer, the quides both got a healthy dose of the stuff.

the iside of the rifle qot a layer of it…meybe a tad too much, but compression tube now moves silky smooth.

spring, and quides got a thick layer of it….not sure that was smart, since the grease is not very sticky….doone is done i will replace next time, when i get a some real tar for it.

everything put pack together including the new trigger job, and the rifles firing cycle was vastly different…no twang…trigger was so much better…but not like the AA410 trigger was while i had it out, it works differently under pressure, but still 100 times better than stock form.

over the chrony it was up from 14.5 to 16.1 fpe …right around 675 with jsb 16 grainers…..it did a couple of shots going up from 675 to 685 to 699 which must have been a bit of diesling and the settled back for a shot string ranging from 673 to 678 fps over 20-30 shots

i found i was able to follow though much easier now i will redo the trigger once more just to see if i can make it a super trigger….

the groups where 1″ at 16 yards…horrible to say the least…but the times i really tried the groups where 1cmx1.5cm edge to edge so ctc it would have been a very small group…i just need to learn the trigger and what kind of hold this rifle likes….they say 2000 shots and the chinaspring is done…at that time i might go for the full maccari tuneup granted i get the trigger perfect….but for now….im quite happy, i would like to be able to get the shroud off and take a look at that crown in there, and maybe do a little shroud work…carbonfiber maybe ?

over and out….

Other Guns

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Viewing 11 replies - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)

Great write up! Looks like Leeman aka SP_Rapid, Okyas, Hamalis Vongos, Demos, Bond liked it so much he posted here and did not even give you credit…. 😥

http://www.airgunforum.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?p=107063&posted=1#post107063

For those who come from the other forum read this
http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3988

There are my experiences with B40 so far:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/113813/message/1203019030/B40+Barrel+sleeve+removing+tool-

http://www.network54.com/Forum/113813/message/1188672967/B40+barrel+%26quot%3Bdroop%26quot%3B
I don’t bother with that “swoop”, scope is easier to set for longer distance when barrel is “pointing high”.

Check that compression tube end plug seal (item 3 later pic) set tight against barrel when cocked, if not, put some shims under it’s seal, or twist compression tube end plug off enough and lock it (with some glue).

Picture where you remove compression end plug. Mine wasn’t glued and rubber you found, was small o-ring for sealing. It brokes so easy when removing end plug. Picture item 5:
http://www.xisicousa.com/files/B40diagramlist.pdf
Mine B40 don’t have it anymore, I put only small amount “Hylomar” for sealing, easy to remove if needed.
http://www.hylomar.us/universal_blue.shtml

Next thing I should do is to set the power to max 16J, because we’ll have FT match where limit is 16J.

My ol’ man is actually still under 50 and very capable. Good you mention that for future usage though. It totally stlipped my mind. He used to talk about shooting the old Benjamin’s and Sheridan’s as a kid. I have a ’72 Silver Streak on the way. I just got rid of a ’65 Blue Streak and he seemed to like that after I refinished it.

He’s all work and no play. We used to thouroughly enjoy shooting and hunting, and fishing together, but I can’t remember a time he’s done either in the last 8 years or so. Talks about it and I know he wants to… but no energy left when he does find time.

Don’t do that to yourself man!

quote airtight_python:

I’ve been thinking about maybe getting my dad a B40. He wouldn’t know the difference between it and a TX200.

I don’t want to give him a POS, but can’t justify a whole lotta money. I don’t think
he’ll use it unless I force his ass in the truck to go shooting. 🙂

I know what you mean… hard to get my old man to shoot, too.

Depending on his physical condition, the B40 may be a little hard for him to cock. I have two TX200HC’s and my old man cant cock either one…. I know the full sized TX is a bit longer and therefore more leverage on cocking, but if your old man has any shoulder issues, it may be rough for him.

If it’s just for him to shoot a bit and no worries on power, you may want to consider a Contender 49… It’s a Chinese gun that is lower power and easy to cock…. if you want to do one better, an HW30 may be the ticket…. if you are in a warmer climate, then there is always the QB78.

Good luck with whatever you choose….. wish I could get my old man to shoot some.

I’ve been thinking about maybe getting my dad a B40. He wouldn’t know the difference between it and a TX200.

I don’t want to give him a POS, but can’t justify a whole lotta money. I don’t think he’ll use it unless I force his ass in the truck to go shooting. 🙂

Cyg… great stuff… I love to work on spring guns and this sort of write up is just awesome. Nice work!

off if anyone near me want his/her B40 tweaked up…ill be happy to help come on over and we will have that puppy up and running fast

it actually does not take much time to do (everything is relative if you got 10 thumbs set off half a saturday) i used bout 3 hours

trigger hints as this is one place you can really make a difference very easy….i have read people drilling out the rivits DO NOT DO THIS ITS NOT NEEDED

the pins the can be removed is easy as pie to punch out…some of them will even just fall out….

now the trigger i spent about 15 minutes on each side of it to get it super smooth with 2000 grit….could be done faster starting out with a coarser grit…..same goes for the sear that trigger touches….its a place you want to go slow and use a perfectly square place for the sanding (i used the my milling vise back end as it is very flat)

honing the cylinders….i used what i had on hand…i have heard about everything from packing foam, socks, tshirts around a rod….what you use as grinding paste is up to you i recomend something that really high grit…the sandpaper was 2000 grit basickly usless for enything else than getting a very light scracth out of carpaint…..and the polish is for your silverware….or chrome on motorcycles…bikes etc….it oxydises the metal a tiny bit….so has to be washed off with soap/alchohol

rest was a matter of a whipe down, and the getting the good grease in there, instead of the cheap china junk stuff they use

i wanted to have taken more pictures, but that moly grease and dirty fingers will only leave you with a camera that will be sticky for the rest of its time….

i was afraid of having to use spring compressors etc….but the B40 is super simple to take appart, even if the trigger group shoots out of the tube because you didnt hold it it wont go far…

right now cocking the rifle is super smooth, ooozes quality, only annoyance is the safety is a bit hard to engange when cocking the rifle…and to disengage…its crooket just a bit i might have to make one of those also.

the rifle in original state is not worth 250 imho…i think the b30 is a better buy….but the b40 has the potential….for a small amount of money of becoming a tx200

now if i could only get that damn shroud and barrel off….i have read so many horror stories of it….im hesitant to try it.

plus i want a rifle to shoot on sunday, just tested the talon it does what a talon does….point and shoot….the b40 is a challenge i know it can…maybe its just me resting it wrong (i know how to…but my shooting range through the house is less than 1 foot wide…i dont want to risk hitting one of 3 doors or doorsills, let alone miss the trap and sending a pellet over to neighbors LOL)

Sweet write up Cygnus X. I know a buddy that will see this Info. as very handy.

THANKS
Pat J.

Sweet job. Few things nicer than stripping down a firearm and cleaning and honing it to near perfection.

Nice write up,

How long did it take you to do all the work?

Roger

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