Bauer Junior ii E1
My battle with getting my MrodAir Extreme doesn’t have a predictable, good outcome. Still waiting for a solution to its oil in air problem, but at least I now have another compressor to actually use. Thanks to my CFO (wife)!
Ordered a Bauer Jr II E (230 volt single phase) from Joe B. it arrived in a few days, on a pallet and well secured. Weight was somewhere around 150-160 pounds.
Top and sides of box and lift off in one piece. Made it easy for the two of us to lift it off the pallet. No lifting out of a tall box.
Fully uncrated.
Included accessories
Size comparison with the “bad” Airmax predecessor. Pretty comparable in size if you include the required water bucket. Build level isn’t even fair to compare. I couldn’t wait to fire the new Bauer up. I had already rewired the garage for a 4 prong 240 volt outlet. I anticipated swapping out the Bauer’s existing power cord with one that fits my outlet
What? No power cord. That is a surprise. Are no compressors plug and play? I guess I’m supposed to wire one into this junction box.
I found the motor’s wiring diagram and a bunch of wires inside the junction box. Called Joe B. and got some encouragement and general advice about going through one wire at time — process of elimination. After figuring out how the wires should go together, I realized there wasn’t any way to turn the compressor on or off. A call to Joe B. verified that’s the way they come. That meant also creating a motor control box. My anticipated three wire connecting project was now something bigger.
Motor wires connected
Put together a quick and dirty motor control box. I’ll change the internals to a contactor and add red & green push buttons later. Also, needs a thermal circuit breaker. This was enough to get things started.
Install filter cartridge and fill with oil. The compressor ships without oil in it. Took about half the supplied bottle to fill. You can’t see the level except via the dip stick. Fill in small amounts at a time because I didn’t know how much the compressor would actually need.
Finally, late at night, it was ready for initial run. 15 minutes without any load. Very little oil came out of bleed tube.
First pressurized run topped off Great White from 3800 to 4500 psi in six minutes. That’s with me slowing down the process by gradually adjusting the final stage valve incrementally up in pressure (counterclockwise).
Very pleased thus far with the compressor. Didn’t fumigate the garage like the Airmax. (All the spiders are dead post the Airmax fumigator). Delivered air from the Bauer is clean, cool and no longer a worry. The only downers were having to create a motor controller and figure out the motor wiring.
Wife is happy we did this and says this is a lesson on not being too cheap and ending up spending a lot more.
I have even had time to post in the Vulcan Bullpup section instead of working on a compressor.
[edited for grammar & show correct picture for wires]
All Replies
Delray, the switch is only rated for 15 amps. By the book enough for the compressor, but I have already had one instance of it not shutting off due to its contacts getting temporarily welded together by the high current arc. Pretty good evidence in my book that a contactor for this application.
Dog, thanks for the link to the check valves. Tempting, but I’m increasingly convinced with the feedback from Joe B & responses on scubaboard members that what I’m seeing is normal for the Bauer Jr. It would be nice if the manual reflected this behavior rather than sending me on a worried search. Those check valves, though, are pretty reasonably priced.
I saw you had some replies over on the ScubaBoard about your leak down, I have a Shelden 4.2 CFM compressor. it has a bleed valve and check valve between the compressor and the filter, it has been holding pressure for 3 day now, before that I must not have tighten the bleed valves tight enough the last time I used it, because the pressure gauge was on 0, but I did notice that after 3 or 4 hours the compressor bleed valve had no pressure, it had all bleed down, I do have pictures of my compressor if you would like.
This is the valve on my compressor, depending on your fitting needs, the top 2, Check Valve 6000 PSI.
http://www.augustindustries.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=75&cat=Check+Valves
How many amps is your current switch rated for?
Here is the motor control circuit that I am planning once all parts arrive. Pretty standard stop/start button design.
The start button pulls in the contactor. Once the contactor pulls in, it’s 3rd set of contacts takes over from the on button to keep the coil energized. The stop button cuts off coil current.
Master DPST switch enables entire circuit and acts as backup OFF switch. Normally, on/off load handled by contractor. This avoids large on/off wear at DPST switch.
[EDIT] Added 1 amp inline fuse to protect contactor coil & start/stop buttons
[EDIT] Rearranged wiring so 1 amp fuse also breaks if failure in hour meter & power meter wiring.
[EDIT] Redrawn to show current transformer measuring all power consumption including itself
Locally, just make sure you get them with enough amp capacity.
Best, though is to use a contactor to do the actual load switching load. When finished, mine will use a DP switch as the master enable / backup shutoff. Main on/off will be via a pair of push buttons controlling the contactor.
I looked at your amazon links and will likely order the same. Did you get your switch locally as well?
The motor control box is something you get to build. The box, hardware fittings, & power cord can be had at a big box store. The switches, displays, contactor & fuses I had to order from Amazon or get at a local electrical supplies house. I’ll have a more detailed build of the final control box posted in about a week when more parts arrive. Meanwhile, I built a temporary one with a DP switch controlling the motor.
Where did you get the motor control box and power cables? Is this something you can find at the local big box store?
Thanks hugely for checking how your machine behaves. This is sounding more like a discrepancy between the compressor manual and what happens in reality than an actual problem with the compressor. Without a check valve between the compressor and filter, I agree it would be very difficult to achieve a seal over more than a day. The manual reads like one should keep a pressure continually in the machine, but unless you’re firing it up every day, that doesn’t seem remotely possible.
Maybe as Joe alludes, the seal will improve over time, but I’m not going to get overly excited, now that I know your unit does the same thing as mine. Like yours, it is going to take a very long time because I’m probably only going to top off my tank twice a month. With that low usage, the cylinder valves would have to seal as well as our guns — apparently that isn’t the case.
It’s these little discrepancies that get picked up on when you have someone like me studying a new toy.
The manual on the CD that came with my compressor is even older than yours (Edition October 2013
2013 BAUER Kompressoren GmbH, München)
Now, back to working on my motor controller. Going to have to use a bigger box because my newly arrived 30 amp contactor is about three times bigger than I anticipated. No way to fit it into the 6 x 6″ box I currently have.
I checked my current usage, having shot relatively little until recently. I’ve still got under an hour, total, on the unit. Mostly, I’m topping off from 4,000 to 4,500 psi lately, due to the Bushbuck (fast!). So, it’s practically “new”.
Hi Guy, my compressor also leaks down. If I don’t use it for a number of days, drain/bleed venting shows no pressure left. Just like yours, mine leaks down at the air intake, above the air filter. I’ve started leaving it at 100 bar. Both of our units are new or very young, so Joe’s comments on better sealing over time may make a difference. I’m not sure exactly how long it takes to zero, but I’ll try to keep an eye on it. Today, after resting at 80 bar for a couple weeks, there was a little pressure in the primary separator tap, but the filter housing showed zero.
As for the manual, on my CD, page 62 of the .pdf is page 55 (i.e. print page number). It’s MNL-0252, 2nd Edition, Rev.0, Chg.13, August 6, 2014. Since the parts list in error is for the P0 Purification system, it’s kinda important! You might want to check your manual in the P0 Parts section and compare the Figure with the parts list.
Though Bauer recommends keeping a storage pressure, this may not be realistic for resting periods exceeding a day. After all, when you look at all the valves, rings and connections, a hpa-total seal is difficult, not like a tank or air gun. I would suggest that everyone adds this (one per use/shutdown) to the total number of load cycles. Bauer doesn’t mention this, and it’s probably not a big deal, but if I vent the condensate 2 times (load cycles), I add one more just to be careful (total of 3 load cycles). Yes, this additional, cycle may be unnecessary, since the slow depressurization is not “an abrupt pressure loss”.
For guys like us, who aren’t filling lots of tanks frequently, the units may stay “young” a long time. For record keeping, I’m using minutes, not operating hours. It takes under 10 minutes to top off my tiger tank from 3,500 psi to 4,500 psi. For Bullpups, that’s a lot of fills. But for the Bushbuck .45 and Dyotat’s .25 slugger, a lot of air gets used. These are great compressors. Thanks for your information, Guy and Joe.
OK. I’ll keep it at 2,000 PSI for storage and see if that makes a difference.
Here is what I see happening at the air intake when the compressor is off and bled down to 2K.
At this leak rate, it drops from 2,000 down to 1,700 in about 20 minutes.
Bogman, how long will your compressor maintain storage pressure?
Does yours make a bubble grow at the air intake anything like this?
Yes, I’m depressurizing before motor start as well. That’s the Bauer startup procedure. BTW, Amps draw at full pressure is about 12 amps. Makes sense for work load and 230 volts
Meanwhile, my air leak hunt got interesting. Basically, mine loses all storage pressure from 80 bar to 0 pressure in 24 hours. I thought I wasn’t closing the bleed valves completely. Nope. Pressurized and checked with lots of soapy water. No leak in fill whip, foster end, air filter housing, final pressure valve, outputs of the bleeds, and all the way back to the 3rd stage cylinder inlet and outlet tubes —– nothing. Finally, I checked at the air intake. A bubble grows fast there. Yep… it is bleeding backwards through the entire compressor.
Of course, I run into something that basically never happens on these compressors. Joe sells loads of these and even he hasn’t run into this issue. I must be the luckiest guy with compressors. 🙄
Joe B. is working on a solution already. I’m sure this will be solved.
Seems the manuals SHOULD be re-written for the reasons you guys state above. I spent some time on the phone with Bauer and they contacted the head “guru” that has been at Bauer for over 30 years. He did say that since it is a brand new unit, that it might take time for things to work in a little and seat, but that it could eventually leak down over time because there is no check valve between the filter and the compressor.
So, bottom line, use it as it is, just keep higher pressure in it for now (that’s my input, not Bauer’s) and see if it slows down over time. I’ve never noticed how long it takes mine to go lower as I use it every day. I just bleed it until the water stops and leave in the rest of the pressure.
Let’s try working it in a little, then call me with your findings. If anything, I told them the manual should reflect this information.
A different manual came on the CD with the compressor. It doesn’t even have a page 62.
Yes, I’m depressurizing before motor start as well. That’s the Bauer startup procedure. BTW, Amps draw at full pressure is about 12 amps. Makes sense for work load and 230 volts
Meanwhile, my air leak hunt got interesting. Basically, mine loses all storage pressure from 80 bar to 0 pressure in 24 hours. I thought I wasn’t closing the bleed valves completely. Nope. Pressurized and checked with lots of soapy water. No leak in fill whip, foster end, air filter housing, final pressure valve, outputs of the bleeds, and all the way back to the 3rd stage cylinder inlet and outlet tubes —– nothing. Finally, I checked at the air intake. A bubble grows fast there. Yep… it is bleeding backwards through the entire compressor.
Of course, I run into something that basically never happens on these compressors. Joe sells loads of these and even he hasn’t run into this issue. I must be the luckiest guy with compressors. 🙄
Joe B. is working on a solution already. I’m sure this will be solved.
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Completed my actual motor control box today. Now the motor is controlled by a contactor. The power switch no longer has to control the high current load.
Warning: This is for a 230 volt, single phase motor. Don’t copy this build unless you understand electrical wiring and have same power specs. This post is not a substitute for your own knowledge. You are proceeding at your own risk.
Here are my components mounted into position, but not yet wired. The contactor had to be shifted later because I needed more space for the quick connect plugs. (Needs to be moved down in this pict) Otherwise, the plugs impinged with the box sidewall.
Notice how one of the switches appears twisted. My push buttons lack a mechanism for spinning the knob. Had to spin the entire button housing to get the vertical line of the green start button correctly oriented. Fortunately, the housing’s mounting screws are designed to let one spin the entire housing.
Here are the main components wired together. The current transformer is zip tied to its power wire keep it from moving excessively.
Wiring was made easier by the contactor having dual tabs on its connection points. NB: It’s a 40 amp unit despite my labeling in schematic.
The contactor in pict still needs to be moved (about 1/2 inch left in this pict) to leave space for quick connects.
Lower portion of control box was mounted to the compressor’s carrying handle using zip ties. A strip of rubber fusion tape on the bottom surface of the box increases mounting friction. Each leg of incoming power is protected with a 20 amp resettable fuse.
Only two motor wires and two mains wires need to be connected to the control circuitry under the box lid.
Top and bottom connected together. Two power wires attach to main switch. Two motor wires attach to contactor.
Here is the completed motor control. Turning on the main switch, powers up & lights the power meter, but does NOT start the motor.
Pressing green START button turns on motor.
Pressing red STOP button shuts down the motor.
Hour meter advances only when the motor runs.
The main power switch serves as an emergency, second means of shut down, but the STOP button is the best way to stop the motor because it opens the contactor’s much heavier duty contacts.
Component spacing could have been a bit prettier, but the controller works.
Parts from Home Depot
8 x 8 junction box
Wire strain reliefs
Zip ties
Crimp quick connects
Linerless fusion tape
Inline fuse holder
1 amp fuse
Parts via Amazon
2 x Blue Sea Systems Push Button Reset Only Quick Connect 20A Circuit Breaker
http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Connect-Circuit/dp/B000HOTICK?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
bayite AC 80-260V 100A BYT-VAEM-034 Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Ammeter Voltmeter with Open-close Current Transformer
http://www.amazon.com/80-260V-BYT-VAEM-034-Voltmeter-Open-close-Transformer/dp/B01D8G9GPW?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
AC100-250V Electromechanical Hour Meter Counter
http://www.amazon.com/AC100-250V-Electromechanical-Hour-Meter-Counter/dp/B008MM0CV0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
Power First 2LNG1 Rocker Switch, Maintained, DPDT, 20/15A
http://www.amazon.com/Power-First-Rocker-Switch-Maintained/dp/B001QRH8BK?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
Packard C340C 3 Pole 40 Amp Contactor 208/240 Volt Coil Contactor
http://www.amazon.com/Packard-C340C-Pole-Contactor-Volt/dp/B004ZRWGGA?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
22mm 1 NO N/O Green Sign Momentary Push Button Switch 600V 10A ZB2-BA3311
http://www.amazon.com/Green-Momentary-Button-Switch-ZB2-BA3311/dp/B0097B6A9S?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01
22mm NC N/C Red Sign Momentary Push Button Switch 600V 10A ZB2-BA4322
http://www.amazon.com/22mm-Momentary-Button-Switch-ZB2-BA4322/dp/B0097B646W?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00