BSA Lonestar Bullpup
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My pride and joy: a John Bowkett tuned and regulated .25 cal BSA Lonestar – absolutely dead nuts accurate, extremely reliable and easy to work on.
54 fpe of sheer hunting power and not pellet fussy – shoots equally well JSB Kings and Baracudas for greater hitting power.
With the Weihrauch shroud is very quiet and only slightly longer than a Matador Long.
Unfortunately, my .25 R3 Standard is a poor second so far π₯ but I hope to make it better with the help of His Excellency Dr. Edgun aka Tedd Oldgoat, who was wise enough to inplant a benchmark BSA barrel onto his .25 Edgun R3 Long π
Cheers from beautifull Bansko,
π
All Replies
What happened? Where? When? Why wasn’t I informed earlier???
Oh….the air cylinder, that bitch is welded on. One AA S510 in the world with a unremovable air cyclinder and I get it. I even sent it off to a machinist who knows what he is doing and he couldn’t get it to budge either.
I’ll just have to live with an unregulated AA. Oh well….
H π₯ π₯ T
You sure that your full body turrets getting agitated from the shroud removal plays a role?
if you are positive its a bank vault then just use this.
What happened? Where? When? Why wasn’t I informed earlier???
Oh….the air cylinder, that bitch is welded on. One AA S510 in the world with a unremovable air cyclinder and I get it. I even sent it off to a machinist who knows what he is doing and he couldn’t get it to budge either.
I’ll just have to live with an unregulated AA. Oh well….
H π₯ π₯ T
That gun is gorgeous! I’d love a bullpup kit for my scorpion.
Instead of vice-grips, try the nutdriver you tighten the clamp with. You can use it as a lever on the clamp, rotates right off.
Did something very similar to remove things on my S410. You listening Hoot?
I thought this was the power of Talon forum?
Free advice?
Otherwise, OG was billionaire already π
Simple inventions = pure genius π³ π³ π³
π
PS. I might start charging fees for giving EDgun related advice on a BSA Lonestar thread π
Omg!! This is simple and easy!
Thanks for sharing because, I CANNOT GET THE DAMN THING OFF!!!!
Inquiring minds want to know! π
Well, Tedd, after refusing to take time off your debaucheries π π π to help out a friend, I had to find a way to solve the problem myself. In the end, after soaking the tube with WD40 for a week, and after nearly ruining my wife’s hair drier from overheating, I was suddenly struck by a flash of genius π³


See, I’m not all that stupid after all, am I π³ π³ π³
Take care of yourself, especially with that wounded front leg of yours π
Nik π
PS. My nut is also size 19.
Tedd, I agree 100 percent. It could have been an honest mistake, as I am not blaming anyone. I did just as you explained and have improved POI by leaps and bounds. I was going out again today, but poor weather. I am excited to go tomorrow, I hope to see how everything has worked out and do some crony testing.
In Nik’s case the gun is engraved .22 on the breech so I wouldn’t be surprised…….
BUT do we see signs here that “quality control” may go down the drain in order to fulfill demand…..???? π
Whatever you say, – these things should not happen…… π
Guys, I am starting to think that Ed, or somebody that took the guns apart; to get them out of Russia, has mistakenly put a couple of R3 22 cal baffles on R3 25 cals.
My R3 25 cal long has a 20 mm baffle nut, my R3 22 long has a 19 mm baffle nut. I donβt know if the different baffle nut sizes are for the 22 and 25 cals or if it is part of Edβs continuing upgrades on the Matadors. I would like more info on this from R3 22 and 25 owners. Except for Nik, the front shroud tube is easy to unscrew and I would like some info from you guys out there.
Nik; you shouldnβt have to go thru this but, if the pellet is clipping, you need to run a .270β-.280β (7.0 mm-7.5mm, for the rest of the world) drill bit thru it.
You can do this with finger pressure; just slowly twist the drill bit in. It will self align once it gets thru the end baffle. If you have a 22 cal baffle on your 25, you might have to start out with a 6.0 mm or a 6.5 mm drill bit.
The drill bits will need to be at least 8β (200 mm) to make it thru the baffles. Be REALLY careful that the drill bit doesnβt touch the crown!
Your other alternative is to pull the barrel/scope rail/breech assembly off of the gun, remove the baffle, have it chucked up in a lathe and have it bored out to 7.0-7.5 mm.
Ed has posted videos showing how to remove the baffle. I think that you would be fine just using finger pressure to work the drill bit in.
PS: How did you finally manage to get the front moderator tube off?
Inquiring minds want to know! π
Nik:
Hmmmm…..
I don’t like this, – not a bit…….. π₯
They say one should give way for the benefit of the doubt until otherwise proven. In my opinion it appears you may have submitted proof that something sucks. And that quite badly too…… π―
Ed needs to come forward with his explanation on this clipping issue….
And that sooner rather than later………
I can understand that a gun may have clipping issues, – but how that same gun is supplied with a test sheet like yours, – well that beats me….
Or does it …..??? π
Hmmmmmmm……..
koljo
I have a R3 .25 long and at short range out to about 30 yards did not notice much of a problem with POI. I went out to longer ranges like 50 to 100 yards and could not hold POI for the life of me. I looked at the baffels and noticed the same thing…clipping on the first baffel by the crown and the last baffel at end of barrel. I have addressed this with Tony and waiting for a response. I took a .25 cal JSB pellet and it would not fall through or the skirt would not clear the first and last baffel. The pellet head would clear but with very little and I mean very little clearance. I took OldGoats advise and drilled out the baffels to almost 5/16 and it has cured the problem. I will post a pic of a pellet hung up in the baffel if some one can email me how to post a pic on this site. swanny@swanny.us[/img]
Well, this is what I found in the bag along with my R3 Standard, cal. 6.35 (.25″), which I ordered and payed for:

The target on the picture has obviously nothing to do with my gun. π― Even more, the inscription on the breech is also false because it is written “CAL. 5.5”, and the gun itself is a cal. 6.35 (.25) one π― π― π― This is a problem for me because we have to register our airguns with the police, but, I can’t do that before I put the right caliber inscription on the breech. I wrote to Ed, asking his advice about the best way to do it but he never bothered to reply π π π
π
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What happened? Where? When? Why wasn’t I informed earlier???
Oh….the air cylinder, that bitch is welded on. One AA S510 in the world with a unremovable air cyclinder and I get it. I even sent it off to a machinist who knows what he is doing and he couldn’t get it to budge either.
I’ll just have to live with an unregulated AA. Oh well….
H π₯ π₯ T
You sure that your full body turrets getting agitated from the shroud removal plays a role?
if you are positive its a bank vault then just use this.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQK0udoz1Wk
You should be flogged with a wet noodle for giving Hoot an idea to acquire one of those. π―