BSA Tactical IR Got it yesterday

Adam, do they have the crossbar turret adj. or are they like a short tgt. style, that can be rotated and reset to zero.

Glenn

Well, I sent mine back today. I was able to hit M&M’s @ 22yds, moved the obj. focus around, it moved poi 1″. The eye end wobbled in the housing. Time for a Bushnell 3200 or Legend.

Glenn

It looks like a # 8 or 6 looking thru the side wheel adjustment. You say no numbers to know how far you’ve gone? No horizontal hash marks?

The mechanical Iris is a very crude and less expensive way to prevent stray light from entering the scope tube, which causes aberrations, poor focus, and white out. this is normally done with high quality coatings on the surfaces of the lens along with special coatings inside the tube it’s self to prevent reflections. But it is novel in a scope. Burris did it several years ago.

Mike

I called, and almost got one of them. Did not know much about Barska, so BSA won out.They have been around a while, and so far I am happy I did.

Glenn

I got the last one a Midway Tues. $199.00 del. O/P was out of stosk.

Glenn

I just recevied a 4-16 BSA ST ILL. M dot. Mounted it, shot a 5 shot group after a fast zero and it was under.250 @ 22yds. Was rushing, just got off work.

It looks verry nice, a little heavy, larger than the pic. shows, and a bit chunky. It looks a lot nicer than other BSA’s, but it seems to be built tough, but it is $200.00 not $50.00.
The ill. is verry nice also, just the middle mil. dots, sun was down but seemed verry clear. I may put it on one of my Anschutz 22’s and see how it tracks. I am verry happy so far.

Glenn

Turn it all the way one way, then paint a dot or lines on the knob as a reference point and just count the number of rotations until you go full value the other way. Then just come back halfway. I use “about” as close enough, counting clicks is asking too much of any hawaiian, we don’t count that high.

walt

Great, that is a neat phenomenon, now you can use it to help you (but only in bright light). A related topic came up here earlier… on shimming scopes. It’s related partially because of this same phenomenon. The differences you see when you ‘stop down’ a lens is due to you cutting the light off from the exterior portions of the ocular lens. This is the largest and probably the most expensive lens in the whole scope. But, especially with cheap scopes, they tend to grind the center portion more carefully than they do the edges; or, they don’t add extra lens groups to correct things like chromatic aberrations and lens flare. So, bottom line is, when you center your scope (have both elevation and windage near the center values) you are using the center of your lenses… usually the best part of the glass. So you get the best image for your buck. Knowing where your scope was made also helps. Companies like Tasco and Bushnell most times don’t make their own scopes, they farm the work out to other companies who then stamp their name on the product. I don’t like the stuff from 3rd world countries, they tend to really suck big time. But if you see an older tasco or any of the Bushnells made in japan at the Japan Optical Works company, buy it. I got an old Tasco as part of a trade that works like you would not believe. All of the Bushnell series 3000 and 4000 are made at Japan Optical Works.

aloha,
walt