Bushnell elite tactical 6×24 x50 g2dmr
Ok, I finally got time to mount and zero my new scope and I’ve gotta say its a huge improvement over my accushot etched glass. I zeroed at about 45 yards ad was hitting 1″ metals spinners at 75 yards within 20min or so. I Ike the scope a lot but I’m afraid I’m going to send it back cause it doesn’t seam to have enough windage hold over. At 75 yards, in a 8 mph wind, I’m having to hold past the number 4 in order to hit it. If jsb ever comes out with the 30 grain pellets or I can get the barracudas to shot better out of this thing it might be enough, but shooting jsb 25 grain pellets at 850fps, its just not enough. Would it help much to bring the gun back to 900fps? I didn’t figure 50fps would make that much difrence.
Also, anyone out there find another chairgun like app that works well? I was thinking there was something out there that had the g2dmr ffp reticle in it but haven’t found anything. I guess for now I can just use chairgun and always tell it the reticle is calibrated at the zoom its at. That would work, right? Thanks.
P.s. its mounted on a matador 25 cal r3m standard.
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I have a cricket .25 on the way and the Bushnell Elite Tactical G2 FFP Reticle ERS Riflescope, 6-24×50 mm was my first choice, Amazon has it for $870.00.
Am I overlooking other scopes in the same price range?
If you’re going to be shooting at 100Y most of the time then definitely dial the elevation for the long shots up from your 35Y zero; you’ll be looking back in the center of the scope which is almost always the clearest part of the glass and you’ll have the maximum amount of windage holds available to you on the center horizontal line.
Not sure what your scope to bore height is or your velocity, but on my .25 R3M at 900fps with a 35Y zero would require 4.6 mils of elevation to reach 100Y so simply dial up 4.6 mils on the elevation turret. When done, dial back down to 0 and you’re back at your 35Y zero. (Of course, run the numbers in a ballistics program for your rifle!)
Regarding “getting lost” on the elevation knob– this is a possibility if you dial past one turn and your knob doesn’t have either turn indicator or a zero stop. This is more of a problem with coarser knobs (like 5 mil knobs) where long shots may require more than one turn of the elevation knob.
Several ways around this…
1. From your 35Y zero turn the turret down until it bottoms while counting the turns… this way you always have a reference to come back to. If you ever “get lost” in the future simply dial the turret down until it bottoms out and then dial back up the number of turns you previously counted to get back to your zero. Additionally, your Bushnell should have hash marks on the scope body to indicate what turn the elevation turret is on.
2. Use a canted scope mount and/or signature zee rings with the offset inserts to keep your scope’s zero with the first rotation of the turret up from bottomed out. With the Bushnell 3-12 x 44 FFP scopeI used to run on my R3M that has a 5 mil elevation turret it was 4.8 mils up from the bottom of the elevation travel for the 50Y zero; this way I could never get more than 1 full turn below my zero. If I ever “got lost” I simply dialed the scope all the way down until the turret stopped then dialed up to the first “0” on the knob. Since it only took 4.8 mils up from the bottom there was no accidentally ending up 5 mils (one rotation) off unless I really wan’t paying attention.
Of course, a zero stop is a more elegant solution but not all scopes offer them…
Dialing is far easier than you think. I think I can go from 30-100yds in half a rev on my 10mil/rev elevation turret. I agree with kiba – it’s more accurate vs holding particularly with FFP where your subtensions may be quiet tough to see with at lower mag or in dim light.
That ret should get you plenty of range based on its setup out to 100 even with the shitty BC of our rounds…
Thanks for taking the time to write all that. I didn’t consider it appropriate to ask for a lesson on using scopes, but thank you for doing it. I am talking about holding for elevation and wind. The only way I would be returning it is if I can get a pst with the ebr2 reticle since it has wider windage holdover. I’m still getting used to the dialing vs hold over. I do most of my shooting at 100 yards but don’t want to keep the scope zeroed at that distance. dialing between 35 yard zero and 100 yard is a hell of a lot of clicks. I’m still learning about al this stuff and I’m sure you a lot better at keeping up with that stuff than I would be. If its more than one full revolution, I’m going to lose track of my adjustments. I just don’t have the time to realy get into learning all this stuff. I’m lucky if I get 20-30 min a day, 2-3 times as week so I was hoping to be able to just keep it zeroed at a 35-45 yards and use the sub tensions to play at longer distances.
Not sure I’m understanding your “not enough windage holdover” comment…
Do you mean when you’re trying to hold for elevation and wind simultaneously for longer distance shots in the wind that you are past the available windage subtensions in the reticle?
If so, that’s completely understandable; pellets have very poor ballistic coefficients and not only drop rapidly but also get pushed around badly in the wind.
For example, on my R3M .25 shooting at 900FPS, at 100Y I need 4 mils of elevation. In a pure 10mph crosswind that’s also 4 mils of windage– that’s a *lot* of wind hold required. In that situation if I was only using both elevation & windage holdovers on the G2DMR reticle the target would be out in a non-graduated part of the reticle because of the amount of windage hold required. So, why not dial for the proper amount of elevation required for the longer shots on the turret? Simply dial up 4 mils on the elevation turret and then the target is back on the center horizontal line in the reticle and you now have an entire 8 mils of windage hold in 1/2 mil graduations available on center horizontal line of the reticle.
I always prefer to dial for elevation and hold for wind, the shot ends up being placed more accurately as you are holding on a solid line for elevation but also have lots of windage holdover options clearly denoted on the reticle. About the only time I’ll hold for elevation is for very quick shot in a hunting situation where the quarry looks ready to leave the scene in a hurry; in that situation I’ll hold elevation and wind since I may not have enough time to dial up the turret. That’s one major benefit of good scopes– the knobs actually track properly, repeat, and rezero so you can dial the elevation turret around to make shots and different distances and then dial back to your original zero without worry. Your new scope isn’t some $60 Walmart special that you have to “chase around” to get back to zero– so don’t handicap yourself by limiting yourself only to reticle holdovers, use the elevation turret to your advantage for the longer shots!
As far as ballistics programs, there are many and you certainly don’t need your particular reticle in the software. On your scope reticle and knobs are both in mil and the reticle is FFP so the subtensions on the reticle are always correct and the same value regardless of magnification level. Simply use any ballistic software, set the necessary parameters (ballistic coefficient & velocity of the ammo, scope height over the bore, atmospheric conditions, zero distance) and set the output for both elevation & windage for mil. It will generate a nice table that matches not only the reticle units but also the turret units since the reticle and turrets are both graduated in mils. That’s the simplicity of matching reticle & turrets and the G2DMR reticle is very easy to understand.
If you’re shooting the .25 25.4gr JSBs use a G1 BC of 0.035 and the output should be extremely close, you may have to slightly tweak the velocity in the software to match what the rifle shoots due to chronograph variations, etc.
For free online web based ballistics software JBM Ballistics is very good. On my phone I have Shooter installed with all of my rifle & ammo combinations entered and available for easy reference. Put good data in and they are *extremely* close and only need very slight adjustment to match what your rifle actually shoots– but put bad data in and they’ll be way off.
Get the Strelok App. The G2MDR is there – among a plethora of other reticules.
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Viper pst with ebr2 is like 950. Call the bushnell outlet for bushnells
Am I overlooking other scopes in the same price range?