choked or unchoked LW barrels for slugs and cast bullets
Would it be worthwhile to cut off the choke (LW barrel AAA Condor) to get tighter groups with the heavy slugs or cast bullets? Why does cutting off the choke improve accuracy with slugs and cast bullets?
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Steve,
The pipe cutter is to scrible a perfect reference line around the barrel to follow with the cut off wheel, it is just a light line to follow while your turning the barrel wit the drill motor.
RC
YES it would be better to cut it off.
But it needs to be a straight cut and it needs to be recrowned.
I did my 24″ 25 cal barrel years ago by removing the last 1.5″ of the muzzle and then recrowned it by using the OLE BRASS screw technique and voila, it worked WAAAAAAAAY better with jerry slugs.
Slugs are the same a jacketed bullets to a degree. And by the same i mean, NEITHER one of them like chokes nor do PB manufactures choke there barrels. So when you shoot a cast bullet, the cast bullet is a PURE LEAD version of a jacketed bullet. Guns that shoot jacketed bullets dont have crowns. therefore, an airgun shooting a cast bullet does not need a crown.
Only guns that shoot diablo pellets require crowns
Pipe cutter? Like twist the handle and smush the barrel into two pieces? Doesn’t that effectively re-choke the barrel? That sounds a little crude. Of course if RC did it and it worked for him, what the hell. Personally I’d find a guy with a lathe who knows how to use it.
RC you always impress me.
….is that how you shortened your .25 FX barrel? 😉
mmmmmgh
Tim @ Mac-1 does the brass screw crown thing
I
believe a good crown is what its all about
I have a 18″ 22 barrel I had to
cut the pos shroud of
of, mmmgh, might have to put that sucker in one of my
Talons, the crows are getting a bit outta control around here😳😳😳😳
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ohhh yeah, Obama is the Devil, that fucker can not get back
in, vote smart
SAW
I have been wondering if a proper counterbore at the muzzle may be more effective than cutting the barrel and recrowning
Not much debate for me on this subject.
I shot severl hundred cast bullets thru the LW choked barrel in 25 caliber. Then in desperation I cut the choke off.
I saw an instant improvement.
Doug has a unchoked LW 257 barrel on order now for me and that and the Haley with a 36 inch 257 barrel, also without a choke, will be my next generation cast bullet guns.
Of equal importance is getting the bullet sized or cast to as near to groove diameter of your particular barrel as you can.
Air Guns are wimpy shooters at best, and when you use air to size down cast bullets, as you do with a choked barrel, you simply loose power that you can’t afford to loose in the first place.
Now how I cut barrel chokes off without a lathe.
You need a pipe cutter, a fex shaft dremel or just a good Dremel, a drill motor, a bench vice, a 12×4 inch piece of plywood, a file, a brass screw and lapping compound.
I make a scribe on the barrel 1.5 inches from the choked muzzle, with a pipe cutter to get a true reference line.
Then I chuck up the breech section in a drill motor and put the muzzle end thru the piece of plywood in a vice. The plywood has a hole that the barrel will just pass thru.
I turn the barrel while using a Dremel cut off wheel on a flex shaft to give me a true cut on the line I scribed on with the pipe cutter.
After it is cut off, I dress down the ouside of the barrel with a file while still turning it, then use the brass screw and lapping compound to give me a crown.
Regards,
Roachcreek
There is always the chance that the barrel will not improve or even get worse. So this stuff is at your own risk.
I sawed 1.5 inches off with a bandsaw, then chucked the barrel in a lathe and created a 90 degree target crown. Some fellas make the 11degree crown but i didnt have the knowledge or patience to try that.
After cutting the crown i put a round-head slotted brass screw in a drill, liberally coated it and the end of the barrel with Flitz metal polish.
Then just spin the screw into the muzzle, rotating the drill off-axis of the barrel in a circular motion. It wont take long to put a small polished chamfered edge on the crown. The removes any burrs created by cutting with the lathe.
Theres a thread somewhere here where I explained it better but im using my iPhone and searching is a pain.
–edit–
Ran to the pc and found the link.
Interesting. Makes sense. I’m thinking about removing my choke, but I am a complete newbie.
How do you remove it? How much of the barrel does on cut off? What equipment does one need? Is there anything you have to do to the newly exposed end/muzzle?
Or is this something that should be left to the pros? The last thing I want is to screw up, making things worse, or end up trashing the barrel.
I removed the choke on mine, and accuracy improved with EVERY projectile I tried afterward.
The biggest improvement were the heaviest (read thicker and harder to size) projectiles.
A waisted pellet has very little resistance to being squeezed smaller, so the velocity loss is less noticeable if at all. If the pellet fits the barrel well to begin with, the choke only causes a small amount of resistance.
Push an oversize, or thicker walled pellet, or solid slug through that same choke, and the resistance is much greater. I believe this causes more velocity loss variation which definitely affects accuracy at airgun velocities.
After removing my choke, velocity variation tightened up considerably and hence my barrel shoots VERY well now. Interesting that I didn’t see any loss in velocity going from 24 to 22.5 inches of barrel.
Thats my take on it. Not exactly scientific, but its my experience.
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Ooops! Sorry RC, I didn’t read that right at all. I knew there had to be something wrong somewhere. 😳