Cleaning the barrel with a bronze brush?
I was looking for a nylon brush to apply some bore cleaner (compound) to my barrel, but all I can find at the local Walmart are bronze brushes. Is this safe for the lothar walther barrel(s)?
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Viewing 14 replies - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)
Hallelujah!!! I figured it out.
I didn’t want to take any chances, so I wrapped a thin layer of cotton patch over the brass brush, applied some Remington 40-X bore cleaner and stroked the barrel about 10 times; proceeded to clean it off with some Simple Green followed up with some dry patches.
Result: 1 inch deviations narrowed down to .80 inches…crap!
Then on a whim, I tried a new tin of pellets. Result: .80 inches groups tapered down to uniform and reliable bulls-eyes.
Questioned,…contemplated…, and then started to investigate the pellets.
Deduction: Apparently, I mixed up the covers of the JSB pellet tins. I have the 14.3 and 15.9 gram pellets and inadvertently switched from heavier to lightly ammo.
Conclusion: The TSS with a 12” barrel prefers the lighter JSB 14.3 pellets.
Wow! I never thought 1.6 grams would make that much of variation in accuracy with a rifle shooting at 850 fps.
BTW – A special thanks to all who tried to help.
Regards, James.
x2. when my condor first came, i was in awe of how perty she was. then i looked down the “match grade barrel”-what a fukin mess! 😯
since i switched to a wax lube for bore conditioner/pellet lube, i dunno how i did without it. this approach definitely warrants a perfectly clean(and gently abraded) barrel to allow proper adhesion and working into the pores of the metal, so in this case, a bronze brush didnt seem excessive, nor did brake cleaner…
I clean my condor barrel just like any other rifle barrel, brass brush with some hopps , then a jag with patch.any new barrel will need some break in and smoothing out. you need to clean it,
Whats up Cygnus how’ve you been man? 🙂
[quote=”Rowdy”you just don’t want to use the felt pellets by them self, or you will get the sonic crack that will wake the dead when your not expecting it LOL…
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yeah and in a springer it, it can equal dry firing, burning piston, and piston slam….all bad things
i almost NEVER clean my airguns, with the exception whe i had a 308 and 457 and 50 cal…the lube on those slugs needed cleaning
i have tried it though, and result is usually the same…the gun shoots worse than before for the next many shots which can become expensive in .25 cal pellets, not so bad in .22 or 177 BUT since things becomes worse after cleaning i have simply dropped doing it UNLESS the gun shoots like crap, then i use some oil, fishing line, and some lint free cloth like patches from an old t-shirt….soak the patch in oil (something like breakfree) ….pull it through 3 times….and then follow with clean ones until they come out with no oil on them, and look decently clean…then comes breaking the barrel in…usually 50-200 pellets and then it should be shooting fine
fishing line is just heavy duty nylon stuff
always pull in the direction of the bullet….that is from breech towards muzzle, and dont let the rod/ram/line or anything go up against the crown, if your gun shoot fine…dont clean !!!!! and DONT let anything slide or rub up against the CROWN
have fun….
i have been shooting airguns for almost 20 years now…and i have cleaned a gun less than 10 times, thats less than 10 times spread over all of my airguns…my Bam B30 needed it…so did the B51 from new and a couple of crosmans…..now my powderburners that’s another story
I don’t use brass or anything metal of any sort in the barrel of a rimfire or air rifle… The rifling profile will just not stand for it… I clean probably more often than most here and I use patches and different types of cleaners and lube in the barrels…
Now if your just out shooting rocks way off against your buddy, it doesn’t matter really, long as you don’t care if your better than he is or not LOL…
I will ever so often use 3 or 4 of the felt swab pellets dripping with cleaner in front of a regular pellet to help maintain the barrel between shooting, you just don’t want to use the felt pellets by them self, or you will get the sonic crack that will wake the dead when your not expecting it LOL…
The only sort of metal of any kind that goes down my rimfire or air rifles is the pellets or the bullet from the shells…
My 24″ likes the JSB 18.1’s at about 875fps.
could be the barrel, but did you tune the valve down a bit? too much turbulence from extra air can play havoc on accuracy.
I immediately changed out the standard 12″ with a 24″ barrel when I purchased the TSS. Now recently I acquired a Condor so I returned the TSS back to it’s original 12″er, and the accuracy is very sporadic.
The rifle is (was) a Tac driver with the 24 barrel – I was able to hit toothpicks from a bench rest, but now I’m getting up to a 1″ deviation from 20 yards. Granted, the barrel is probably not fully broken in yet (+/-300 shots with JSB 15.9), but I don’t recall the 24″ barrel taking this long to settle in. I’ve tried different pellets, power settings, and triple checked my set screws. Any thoughts….?
You could also use up a few mops with some abrasive bore cleaners then work your way to finer polishing compounds…. Why are you cleaning it? Did accuracy start to suffer?
I use bronze but I only clean once a year – pellet guns require very little maint. You can buy a nylon brush and a nylon coated push rod from Midway… I own both in 17 caliber so that I don’t wear the breach with ham fisted cleaning practices.
depends on the barrel, but to be safe id wait and use nylon. typically a few drops of breakfree and some patches will do ya, but if you want to get it to base metal, regardless of how you do it, id start using white lightning or krytech(as a pellet lube) to condition the bore, then subsequent cleaning will be no more involved than shooting a few felt cleaner pellets through.
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1.6grains not grams.
I’ve found my gun sensitive to different pellet weights and pellet quality control. Glad you found the fix.