cocking problem
Hallo,
I bought a secondhand frame and triggergroup, after installing everything I can’t cock the gun properly: the breech only stays cocked when I pull the trigger when pushing the breech backwards. I’m sure all the triggerparts are in the right place. Does this sound familiar to someone?
I tried the supersear and the orginal parts, also different hammers, it all doesn’t matter. Who knows the solution?
Gert
All Replies
Nah, no overtravel screw, mine is an earlier model UK stealth. Might drill and tap a hole if I feel the need.
yes, indeed.
when an AF trigger has had some blood and sweat poured into it, it can be one of the cleanest breaking, creep free triggers out there.
it didnt start horrible, but i had to lose the creaking noise. 😡
yes, i forgot OVERTRAVEL.
hopefully youre among the fortunate that has a threaded trigger cover in front of the trigger to control it. if not, get one from AF or drill/tap yourself.
I will have to side with you Moneyshot in that I also think I have an excellent trigger on my AF gun.
I have been around many good triggers such as Daystate and Air arms rifles and my trigger is up there definitely.
There is next to no spring pressure on the first stage, so little spring pressure that you can’t detect it with your finger. Then the second stage had about a 2lb pull with no creep what so ever and one of the cleanest breaks I have ever felt, with next to no spring pressure after the break and less than 1mm of over travel.
No safety on my gun either, if I felt like I needed one then I wouldn’t have guns.
Also toying with the idea of making it a bullpup but not sure if I want to tear it apart again
that, among all things, should be made public knowledge.
it is firmly opposed to the spirit of this forum to keep useful info secret…
it was just a lot of trial and error. let it be known that my LCS hybrid hammer with its angled nose and improved sear engagement helped a might.
LOSE THE SAFETY!! dont ask why, just DO IT.
some say it helps to move the sear spring forward in the slot, im sure it helps, but i have no clue where i put mine.
clip or replace the trigger return spring(1st stage, sorta) to where it just pushes the trigger back when you let go. this stage adds to the weight of the total pull.
the tricky part is getting the weight of the intermediate bar spring just right. make the return spring so that the heaviest hammer preload(that youll use) will still stay cocked, even when banged and jarred around.
i also lightly deburred the group, and buffed in a coat of cerflon with a stainless wire wheel on a dremel.
some say a metal trigger shoe will help. i got a SS one from greg, and i do say it improves your feeling whats going on in the group, i like it.
now im waiting for someone to make an aftermarket group from tool steel or the like. 🙄
MS
What’s the secret to perfecting the trigger group, or is that a secret? :8:
yes,
it seems that youd do well to put more upward spring tension on the sear.
lemme know how it goes, ill be thinkin of anything else it could be, it happened to me, too(before i perfected my trigger group. i guarantee i got 1 of the best AF triggers with stock parts out there.) :thumb:
Try moving the trigger springs further away from the pivot points of the trigger parts that they exert spring pressure on, or just give them a little stretch to put more force on the sear bars. It might also be a problem with the unsafe safety.
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hows the overtravel as is?