Condor SS- Difficulty cocking
My gun randomly has issues cocking – it feels like metal grinding into other metal at times, but other times its perfectly smooth. My question is, is it safe to use silicone lubricant to aid the cocking mechanism in moving smoothly?
I know you don’t want to use a petroleum based lubricant in these guns, but what about silicone spray?
Thanks
-TB
All Replies
I guess what I’ll be doing this weekend is taking the Maddog stock off my gun again, removing the tank and collar and pulling the breech out through the back. Really need to find where it’s hanging up, because I can’t keep beating up my finger the way I have been. Stupid rail is so sharp that I’ve bursted a bunch of blood vessels on the side of my finger struggling to cock it.
Having never removed the breech before, is there anything I should know before I start? Instructions in a previous thread suggested it was as simple as removing the tank and collar, removing the cocking knob and then the breech would slide out the back. Once that’s out the hammer and weight will come out? Anything else, or can I then take a dremel to it?
Thanks again, between this, the original clipping issue and now some random inaccuracy (which may actually be my new Hawke Sidewinder 8-32x scope which I’m returning) this gun is becoming more of a pain than a joy.
-TB
Once again, do not use sil grease for the outside of the hammer or inside of the frame wheer the hammer rides. Grease is far too gummy. Use dry graphite.
Use Sil. Grease for the “0” Rings only.
KnifeMaker
Once Again?
knifemaker ยป Sun Jul 14, 2013 10:15 pm
Sil. Grease is not a lubricant. Other than for “O” Ring. All it is good for in this aplication is gumbing up the works, slowing everything down, prventing proper engagement, and catching a LOT of grit and debre. For the trigger parts, any fine oil. For the frame housing where the hammer rides, spray graphite. The carrier dries, and leaves nothing but graphite.
Yep!
Once again, do not use sil grease for the outside of the hammer or inside of the frame wheer the hammer rides. Grease is far too gummy. Use dry graphite.
Use Sil. Grease for the “0” Rings only.
KnifeMaker
Once Again?
Adam, the piece I removed is not in this pic. At the time I did that work it was still in the gun. Later on I figured out how it works and removed it. On these new guns you can see the little toggle link sticking up inside the gun if the breech is removed. When you cock the gun it forces the safety back and sets it. When the breech is closed you can then take the safety off to fire but you can’t open the breech and pull the trigger because the breech pushes on the toggle which pushes the safety back. The top pin in the frame where the front of the breech would be is the pin and all it holds in is this little toggle link about 3/8″ long. I’m on my phone now and can’t figure out how to add pics . Maybe tomorrow.
Once again, do not use sil grease for the outside of the hammer or inside of the frame wheer the hammer rides. Grease is far too gummy. Use dry graphite.
Use Sil. Grease for the “0” Rings only.
KnifeMaker
I completely disassembled my gun and I deburred all rough edges, of which there wasn’t much, and I rubbed moly into all metal parts. I also removed the little toggle link that resets the safety. Now I can decock my gun anytime. It cocks as smooth as silk and the safety can be flicked on and off with very little effort.
Up to 1000 or more shots now and this gun is scary accurate and quiet. The only other things I have done is add my own hammer slap mod, put an oring behind the tophat and adjusted the tophat down . I now get 40 shots from a 2800 fill 880-905-880 and VERY quiet. It is quieter than my buddy’s .25 Cricket and just as accurate.
Which piece did you remove in this picture to be able to uncock your gun?
Nice. So good to know. It would be nice to have some pics to show how to make this happen, smooth cocking and quiet setup.
one thing I can think of is the safety linkage might be hanging up when you cock it as it rides alongside the frame and the trigger parts are also along the other side of it. There are several cutouts in it and the pins and other parts rub against it.
I completely disassembled my gun and I deburred all rough edges, of which there wasn’t much, and I rubbed moly into all metal parts. I also removed the little toggle link that resets the safety. Now I can decock my gun anytime. It cocks as smooth as silk and the safety can be flicked on and off with very little effort.
Up to 1000 or more shots now and this gun is scary accurate and quiet. The only other things I have done is add my own hammer slap mod, put an oring behind the tophat and adjusted the tophat down . I now get 40 shots from a 2800 fill 880-905-880 and VERY quiet. It is quieter than my buddy’s .25 Cricket and just as accurate.
My condor ss gets smoother, no grid feeling now. I have tried about 200 shots. But it’s harder than my talon ss.
I used silicone grease because I have Tony slap hammer mod plus there parts are not all metal in that system. An O-Ring behind my top hat as well. Also I am starting to wonder if the breach is made of Metal as well.
And here I thought it was an isolated incident with mine. Right when I received the gun, I assembled it and dry fired it. A rough motion sending the breech forward to set the hammer back. Feels like the spring is really fighting you, sounds like it is straining on compression. I thought it is the expected breaking in period occurrences, it will get smoother with time. Fired off a couple rounds and it felt a little less rough. Then I totally disassembled it. Bagged all the parts into groups and have been getting aftermarket parts to replace the stock stuff. I’m waiting for some AF barrels to hit the market so I could get a Dyotat100 Hammer upgrade. Now I’m regulated to watching the surf cams for my local spots, while sketching out a couple patterns to paint the frame and parts.
I feel difficult to cock too. I’m thinking it’s different safety system.
Sil. Grease is not a lubricant. Other than for “O” Ring. All it is good for in this aplication is gumbing up the works, slowing everything down, prventing proper engagement, and catching a LOT of grit and debre. For the trigger parts, any fine oil. For the frame housing where the hammer rides, spray graphite. The carrier dries, and leaves nothing but graphite.
KnifeMaker
Sounds like the new trigger setup has its problems. There’s the guys that was stuck and now 2 people have cocking issues.
I defiantly won’t be building any high power guns with the new frames.
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I am aving the same exact issues with my talon ss.