Condor Valve seal angle
What should the seal angle on a condor valve be. My valve started leaking the other day and continued to get progressively worse. I tore the valve down and the there was a small piece of metal on the seat. I removed that and resurfaced the plastic valve sealing surface to a 45° angle. The brass side looks great so I didn’t do anything to that. I put it back together and it is leaking as bad as ever. I tried pressurizing the tank putting it on the action and dry firing repeatedly, didn’t change anything. Suggestions? What is the best way to install a valve after a surface rework so it will seat again? Once I figure out what the angles are supposed to be I might just make a new seat. I have read several places that they are made of delrin, is that right? 
-Brian
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The altaros is a simple drop in. Unscrew the valve from the tank, screw the regulator into tank and then the valve into the reg. It adds about 2″ to the pull but is completely reversible. I think the loss in velocity I’m seeing is the volume around the valve just isn’t large enough to make the velocities I want without cranking the regulator up, which defeats one of my goals of higher consistent shot count. When I have time I might try to do something to increase the volume just not sure what yet. Really don’t want to increase the pull any more. I do love the consistency though. My talon used to shoot groups, but with the reg it will stack pellets on the target.
Yes that is pre chamber. Don’t know how the Altros works as far as where the chamber is.
Is that second picture of your pre chamber? I want to make one for my alteros regged talon ss. I have the reg set at 1600 right now and am only getting 705 fps with the JSB 15.9 gr. pellets. I was getting about 900-940 fps, with the power wheel set at about 9, 3200 psi fill, before adding the regulator, but the velocity spread was too high for really good accuracy. I also wanted to try and increase my shot count.
I have never had a problem with one leaking. It is always the o ring sealing the brass piece to the valve body.
The part that slides into the seal I make .130″ and drill a .125″ hole in the seal. 3 ports on the taper work better than 2 holes on the side.
My .30 uses a stock valve with a new stem for the larger barrel. It has 3 ports and on 1600 psi reg I get 900 fps with 45 gr JSB’s. The stem is still .248″ od with a .214″ hole.
Just to satisfy my curiosity, what are the diameters of the stem now? Mine only has a single diameter of approximately .2465 and just slightly larger where it has been knurled. I might have to make a new one piece top hat and try the new valve design. Would a domed surface on the valve seal easier? I see several other makes of air guns use a domed surface for the valve seat.
I guess that is old.
Here is current setup as far as I know.
Looking at the picture of the seal you show it is quite a bit different than mine. This is an older condor. I wondered if the stem and seal has changed because all the pictures I see here and on the yellow are different than mine. My valve looks like this. 
Brian
Looking at the picture of the seal you show it is quite a bit different than mine. This is an older condor. I wondered if the stem and seal has changed because all the pictures I see here and on the yellow are different than mine. My valve looks like this.
Brian
I’m pretty sure it is the seal and not the o-ring. The air is leaking out through the stem and around the stem. I’ll try changing the o-ring around the brass part just to make sure but when I put soapy water on it, all the bubble are coming from the center. Maybe I’ll try sticking the end in some water like you have suggested in other threads and double check. Is that o-ring a 70 durometer?
Brian
Are you sure it’s the seal and not the o ring on the brass piece?
By the pic I can’t figure out the seal.
Here is a pic of a condor seal I have. I don’t mess with stock valves so unless they have changed something this is what I have.
Angle will not effect the seal. Either the brass part is not smooth or its not leaking from there.
Okay, I made my first attempt at a new seal for the valve. I didn’t have any black delrin do I just used white. 
It is acting just like the old one and not sealing. I will have to try another and put a different angle on the sealing surface. Suggestions for the angle I should try next? Maybe a better question, do you machine the seat with it on the valve stem? I did everything in one chucking so it should have been concentric but like I said I can’t make it seal.
Okay, I made my first attempt at a new seal for the valve. I didn’t have any black delrin do I just used white. It is acting just like the old one and not sealing. I will have to try another and put a different angle on the sealing surface. Suggestions for the angle I should try next? Maybe a better question, do you machine the seat with it on the valve stem? I did everything in one chucking so it should have been concentric but like I said I can’t make it seal.
You really should polish the bushing while you have it apart. One of mine had a rough edge thah chewed the delrin bad. Turn it against a fingernail. It should be smooth.
Never checked the angle. I simply put the seal with the valve stem pushed into it and used the stem in the chuck of my drill press, ran on slow, and held a piece of fresh 400 grit shop role to it.
They will leak some until they take a set. Dry firing can be rough on it. Fill the to at least 2500. As high pressure helps the seal. Quickly remove the filling apparatus, and fire a few rounds thru it before it can leak down much. this should seal the valve seal to the actual seal.
I would wonder about the sealing surface of the valve face its self, as you stated there was a small piece of brass on the valve seal. It came from somewhere! 😉
Knife
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One more quick question for Doug. Is there a build thread somewhere about your pre chamber and regulator setup?