Converting a R3 .22 to .177?
Hi all,
Question…
Can I get away with just swapping barrels or need to change bolt probe & front thingy that the barrel screws on to?
Brgds
Jack
All Replies
Viewing 5 replies - 1 through 5 (of 5 total)
You would need a new barrel.
New bolt assembly and the thing that goes directly in front of it (rear barrel mount) which has the transfer port.
The shroud and barrel nut should be the same for the 22 and the 177.
If I was going to do it (it would be from 177 to 22 for me) I would buy the action and the rear barrel mount and do a complete swap instead of swapping out the bolt and stuff. That way you have two of everything to swap out relatively quickly if desired.
I have a 177 R3 and it is the same transfer port, regulator and everything else except for the bolt. I have had zero issues lowering the reg. Now getting it to shoot sub 12fpe is a totally different story. 😉 Which is what the UK guys may be talking about. 😐
Additionally or alternatively you could just shoot 13.43 grain AA or JSB pellets in 22 at around 800 fps and get roughly the same power (20fpe) with better accuracy. 177 pellets can be temperamental and generally inaccurate.
Hi Wanta edgun,
Sorry to only get back to you now, but with vacation & the world cup…not much time to shoot or be shot at…lol
from the below ref. o-rings by a poster it looks like a barrel swap will do it; in any case I did ask Ed and he ignored my email as a made reference to other issues that has transpired with no response;
looks to me as if he has something to prove with shooting lollipops as opposed to replying to returning customers… I might just by a BSA barrel, tread it myself and have at it…
Brgds
Jack
• Ф 2,57 х 1,78 – 1 pcs (front plug filling valve)
• Ф 3 х 1; 2.5 х 1,02 – 2 pcs (pellet probe for .22 or .177)
• Ф 5 х 1,5 – 5 pcs (front of the regulator shaft – 1, inside the regulator – 1, bottom of the bolt assembly -1, filling probe – 2)
• Ф 7 х 1.5 – 1 pcs (rear of the barrel seal), .177 uses Ф5х1,5)
• Ф 8 х 1.5 – 1 pcs (rear of the regulator shaft) • Ф 12 х 2,5 – 1pcs (permanent compensator seal)
• Ф 25 х 3 – 4 pcs (front and rear plugs, regulator)
Barrel swaps can be done as long as you stick with the .473″ bolt face of the generic Mauser family, though it may not be cost-effective or as simple as you may think to do so. If you really want a switch-barrel rifle that you can switch out quickly on your own, you’ll want to look at something like the Sauer 202. The other good option is, go to gunsmith shop.
I’m pretty sure your going to need more than that. Is it a multi shot or single? I bet if you looked up the Oring sizes for the bolt probe you would see whether or not they are the same size, that would be a good starting point. Also, you would probably nano to come up with some sort of transfer port reducer. I’ve heard from some uk guys that the 22 regulator doesn’t like being adjusted that far down. I think the end up reducing the transfer port
Viewing 5 replies - 1 through 5 (of 5 total)
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WTF is this response, some type of gunsmith spam? 😯