CUTTIN’ THE FAT (out of an AF trigger)
So the stock trigger is big and blocky and plastic.
Remedied the block of plastic w/ a similarly shaped aluminum one which is good, but got to feeling there was room for improvement.
had to decide why the original was so blocky…..conclusion, enough room for the 4-40 screw and nut to be made into it. Need another way to secure the trigger while thinning it out considerably.
solution: instead of a through bolt, one 6-32 setscrew from each side, trimmed to fit flush with the outside of the trigger.
fat stock sized al trigger shown for comparison
Results:
(also shown the new “redding” finish I tried out on some of the metal parts this week) 😯 😉 Damn Alabama humidity makes it easy.
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the trigger components aren’t mine, but that’s a good idea just the same.
Don,
for your carbon steel parts that are so bad to rust up somewhat, try heating the parts and drop them in old used motor oil and allowed to cool down completely before removing from the oil. Best to drop in the oil and walk away and forget it for 30 minutes for the small parts. Most mistakes here are made by pulling from the oil while its still warm.
Its really surprizing how long it takes for a part to cool down in oil and to remove it too soon is the biggest mistake. By dunking the parts in the used oil though will allow a good condition to the surface of all your parts, carbon steel as well as brass and stainless JIMO…
Then when you do pull the parts from the oil, just wipe with a wrag and no solvent to remove anything extra. Least this works good for me dude. I have even done this a little different on certain parts that I wanted a more darker finish to be putting only just enough oil to barely cover the part or parts and allow them to bubble the oil around them while cooling down. Must be careful here or you can set on fire if not down correctly here LOL… Which catching on fire is not such a bad thing really, you just don’t want to panic and/or set the shop on fire LOL… I just let mine burn till it quits burning and cool down completely before wiping off the finished part…
Might give this a try and see if this helps you with the quick to rust parts, sure does the trick here for me. Doesn’t mean it won’t ever rust or is maintance free!!! Just that its more resistant…
Been doing some sketching of a “trigger group” as a drop in replacement. Completely different parts though, not stock replacements. No where near cutting chips on it yet, just concept drawings trying to figure stuff out. Want take-up, overtravel, weight, and sear engagement to be able to be adjusted properly.
For those curious, there is no time frame attached to this as to when it will be done. Will post pics/info when/if I get it figured out and working properly.
Marc made some better trigger part components. They have been posted here several times.
Shrp, you should work on some better trigger components. The ones that come with the gun are absolute crap.
None taken, your work there is simply superb even if not practical to produce in quantity (can’t imagine putting a $$ in the time involved). constructive input is ALWAYS welcome. You are clearly a true craftsman with a lot of patience. I agree a fixed position trigger (not the shoe) is much more stronger and secure. Not that ambitious yet to try to make both. Even the triggers done so far tend to be labor intensive, but rewarding in final appearance. Feedback appreciated.
I’ve thought about a 3 pc setup, linkage, strut, and shoe; which would make the trigger position adjustable fore/aft, up/down, and left/right cant (face the shoe slightly toward left or right depending on left or right handed). however I figure few people would be interested in this type of adjustability on a “field/hunting” gun. May have to try it one day just to see if i can do it though.
Thanks for the replies and great pics. 😀
Sharps, I didn’t mean to interject your plan. I simply tried to show the different ways I had tried to offer better material. I failed in my original pursuit, mostly on purpose, because I realized what I had to offer, many wouldn’t pay the price for. I had the expertise to (carve/mold) new, better fitting parts, but then I had to find an outsource (with equipment familiar to me from 20 yrs. ago). Unfortunately the technicians I found locally, were the same ones I couldn’t teach 20 yrs. ago. LOL Their work quality was, well, 50yrs. old. I still make parts like the the ones I have on my guns (actual gold), but the metal of choice, would be “Chrome Cobalt”. I can remake my (gold) parts if they wear, but Chrome cobalt is designed for a life time of “chewing” LOL. I don’t have the time for production, or the desire to sell and explain the special qualities of the superior alloys. The alloys used are unknown to anyone, not familiar, with with Dentistry. I love what your doing! Keep it up!
If you get the vertical tilt the way you want it against the trigger strut , you could fill the slot with JB Weld and drill the hole where you want it. If you look at my pix, that red stuff in the slot, is (acrylic) serving the same purpose. I did that on the stock trigger strut because of the opening at the bottom. thats why I made a new trigger strut to fit my trigger shoe.
tz.
The longer single screw would have to be 4-40, 6-32 a little too thick to go through the slot in the trigger… i hate that tap 🙄
Really though there was motive to the two screw arrangement…….the single screw would give no means for the trigger shoe to “clamp” against the trigger itself, it would be “free floating” in the vertical slot. By using the larger 6-32, one from each side, they clamp against the trigger holding it securely in place and maintains vertical adjustment (what little there is of it). The stock trigger is plastic and flexible, so the screw and nut “clamp” the plastic against the trigger.
I started with the single screw idea but it could not be clamped securely to the trigger, metal doesn’t flex like the stock plastic. Took some brainstorming to get over that and what you see is the result.
Yeah! I like it! Looks like a major improvement over stock. It’s a labor of love. Good work my friend. tz
Ack!!
I gotta have one (or three:)
Beautiful work!!!!
LOVE the triggers shrpshotr28
😀
He’s going for the antique look. 😛
Yeah, have exactly the same prob here. Second i touch anything steel, i have to rub it down and oil it to stop it oxodising(even a thumb print rusts in the pattern of a thumb print!! 😆
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Few of the different trigger parts I have made, nothing quite the same as what sort of stuff you do as all of mine are blacksmithed versions with all manual labor on the anvil and hand files LOL… Then of coarse the flamed finish and oiled till cooled… These here are 400 series stainless and honed, file really just doesn’t cut the stuff LOL…
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b6d707b3127ccecf61ac24c54100000010O08BcNXLVo3ag9vPhA/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b6db27b3127ccece5866fa373000000010O08BcNXLVo3ag9vPhA/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/
This next one is of old part that I hope you can see the hairline cracks in, big time failure of this part along with just about every other part on my Condor…
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b6db27b3127ccece58ff78776600000010O08BcNXLVo3ag9vPhA/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/
Then the old and the new replacement in process with a side by side shot of the new part that is close to being finished…
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b6db27b3127ccece592c7b17d800000010O08BcNXLVo3ag9vPhA/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/
When this part failed on my Condor, it fired the round!!! Lucky for me it was up and over the shoulder for the POI, or this could have been bad…