degassing and dry firing
They say there are no dumb questions, but I’ll challenge that notion with a few here:
First, how do I go about degassing this thing? I’m planning to tinker with the trigger today and I figured it would be easiest and safest to degas it and dry fire it until I think it’s set correctly. That leads to my second question: will dry firing a degassed gun hurt it?
Thanks for the feedback. While I wait for an answer I’m going to go cannibalize some ball point pens because I hear those springs can be useful…
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Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)
Deez nutz,
No do not remove the trigger lever spring part #90 ❗
Like you said the end extension rests against the silver screw head in the rear most of the 3 holes is the lightest factory setting.
What I posted was to let that extension go past the screw head and rest against the frame. You will decrease the trigger pull less than 1 ounce but to some that is noticeable. BUT any adjustmene that lightens trigger pull may create a dangerous situation. Before loading the rifle make certain it cannot be fired accidentally by bumping it, slapping on it and otherwise jarring it in all directions.
No pic geaux, but thanks for clarifying what I was talking about. Look forward to hearing your results when you get a chance. I don’t think I will adjust mine, I was just looking for info on how that spring correlates with pull weight.
Hooter, I know the spring your talking of……I tensioned it slightly to get a little spring in my first stage pull. My trigger is set pretty much how I like it now. It is light, predictable and breaks clean and sharp. I’m popping Starlings at 96 yards! Went 4 for 5 today!
Deez, here’s the pic. More later, gotta go read to the kids
You guys just need to shoot ur gun!! :4: any shooter with good skill can determine the exact moment that the trigger will break. Pull through the first stage adding pressure…refine your aim and squeeze…follow through the same with each shot…. In short just practice you will get hole on hole results at 50 yds or less. Beyond that your hold, drop and windage takes over. You somebitches are gonna fuxup your gun sooner or later IMO :angrymob: oh yeah drink a beer after each refill of AT, Sir Ville says this helps too 😉
He’s talking about the v shaped sear spring
:hoot:
No Knumb Nutz….
The spring I’m talking about is on the rod extending back from the trigger to the sear…the long shiny rod from the trigger back to the sear. On the long shiny rod is a spring whose tension is adjusted by the black thingee on the rod that holds the spring against the trigger….
I’m not certain what spring you are talking about now…“holes??? We don’t need no stinking holes…!!!”
Hoot:
The trigger spring tension is a black thing at the end of the trigger spring and there is a hex nut that you loosen and move the black thing closer or farther away from the trigger to increase or decrease the trigger spring tension.
Hoot:
Hoot,
So if mine is all the way to the right in the third hole, does this mean that it is set at its lightest setting from the factory? Can it be moved more to loosen tension, or does the spring have to be removed completely once that adjustment is reached?
:hoot:
The trigger spring tension is a black thing at the end of the trigger spring and there is a hex nut that you loosen and move the black thing closer or farther away from the trigger to increase or decrease the trigger spring tension.
Hoot:
geaux,
If you don’t mind my asking, which hole was that trigger tension spring set? Mine from the factory has three holes with the screw stop positioned into the hole that is all the way to the right. Moving the spring to the center or left seems as though it would increase tension. Did you just remove it? How does your trigger break now? Thanks for any info.
Thanks y’all,
I ended up keeping the gun gassed up because of your advice about not firing with zero pressure in the tank. It worked just fine and my trigger is better, though not perfect yet.
I tried switching the two set screws like Lurker did- I can see where he was coming from when he said that the top screw was kind of short. It appears to correct for overtravel, and while it’s pretty good as is I found that it could use just a bit more length. The problem is that I was afraid of switching the hardware on the two screws (the top one has a thin, flat washer after the nut and the bottom one has a locking washer). I figured the locking washer on the screw which adjusts sear engagement was probably a good idea. Without moving the locking washer from the bottom screw, it wasn’t long enough to adjust the sear the way I liked it. So, back to the original configuration.
I think it may also have been Lurker who suggested taking tension off of the spring (part 90) that rests on the silver screw. I did that and noticed a positive difference. My two main adjustments were dialing the bottom screw in a bit and releasing some of the tension from this spring.
My next adjustment was to the spring that sits around the trigger rod (part 89 in the manual). I’m assuming this is the spring that people are swapping out with ball point pen springs but I’m not certain. At any rate, I just used the little spring-tensioner thingy (part 84) to adjust the load on this spring and managed to get it to a place that made me happy.
I may take another crack at this after another few hundred rounds, but that should do for now. Thanks again for the advice!
Que ? Why all the pumping ?? If you don´t own a handy tool (which, of course, i do) then just crack the bleed valve open (slowly) and be done with it.
I haven’t tried it on the vulcan yet but this works on my other pcps… Use the charging device of your choice (hill pump, air tank) and charge until the check valve on the gun opens. Shut off source of high pressure air. (For the hill pump, stop pumping. For the air tank close the main valve). Then slowly crack the bleed valve. Can’t open it too much or the check valve in the gun will reseat but if you bleed slowly, you can bleed the reservoir to zero.
(I wish I could take credit for this one but read it somewhere on this forum and found it easier than trying to find a degassing tool or that wrench I forgot to bring in the field).
Jeff
get a small 002-003 o ring first, because if you use the grubscrew there is a good chance it will leak afterwards-forever.
OR even worse, you can do this many times successfully and everytime you will use the grubscrew with higher and higher torque until you damage threadings in the AT. That grubscrew must be tight to seal/seat the ball bearing. with a rubber o ring installed under it, it is effortless to reseal it.
you don’t need to vent to work on the trigger, you just undo the bottom 8 little screws on the trigger guard.
See the allen screw on the top of the air cylinder? That is your bleed screw, no need to remove it, just bleed it slowly
By dry firing do you mean on an empty gun? Or do you mean to use the valve to degas the gun? Both those are bad for the gun, you will break the valve. You can of course dry fire a full gun without a pellet with out concern. If you are going to tune the trigger you must do it on a full gun. You should never let the hammer hit a free valve (one without air pushing against it).
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dag nab it, let’s try that again:
hope that works. If it does, then you can see that the shiny screw was in the top hole (closest to the receiver). You can also see the screw hanging out on the frame where it lives now.
I’d say that my trigger is less than a pound, though it’s hard to say exactly. It’s a light trigger but not what I’d call a hair trigger. The “first stage” is slightly longer than I’d like but it’s really not a problem. The second stage is perhaps 10 or 12 ounces but I’m really guessing on the weight there. It breaks cleanly with very minimal overtravel. Not the perfect trigger, but a definite improvement and plenty good enough to get me another few hundred rounds before I feel the need to fux my gun again.