DIY hammer slap mod?
Has anyone ever tried a DIY hammer slap mod by bonding some 1/8 inch (or thinner?) polyurethane sheet to the hammer or face of the breech slide? Experimenting with the hardness of the rubber sheet might also get a big improvement in finding a bell curve shot string around any given pressure.
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http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-polyurethane-sheets/=wa5iu1
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I suspect it would be very hard to attain a DIY slap mod that A, Was reliable, B, Didn’t hurt power and C, did what you wanted it to do. One out of three, no prob, two out of three, possibly, all three? Permanently? Do what I’m doing, save for Tony’s hammer!
I made my own slap hammer mod it worked well. But I spoke with a few folks who had the same gun as me and as per them the TT Slap Hammer Mod seemed to perform better. So I bought it and they were right I got better power and it was just more reliable. Every once in a while with my own Mod I would have issues with the rubber I glued to the hammer and I would have to take it apart and repair it. I have not needed to take apart the gun for the TT Mod. Not saying you can’t come up with a good Mod on your own just worked better for me. :tag:
All of the HPA tanks come with a regulator. Ninja Paintball offers regulators up to 3,000 psi.
This is going to be way off topic……… but i was wondering if a paintball tank can be had with just a unregulated pin valve . The CO2 tanks have a pin valve only.
They are limited by a burst disk. Not sure what burst pressure, but i am sure the working pressure is likely less than 2k psi…… I doubt it wise to change burst disk to higher pressure for use of pin valve into an HPA tank.
Maybe not wise but has been very tempting. Seems most paintball accessories dont have a very useful rating past the pin valve anyways. Too bad because I have noticed some sweet remote lines for paintball. Especially some cool CAR 15/M4 style buttstock types like they have for the RAP4 or similar styles.
If only they made this stuff at 300+ Bar,!!!!!!! :4:
The Talon SS .177 come with a standard valve. Yeah. I’m using a CO2 adapter with a Ninja Paintball 13ci. hpa tank with the SHP Pro regulator shimmed up to 1,400 psi. A cheap and effective solution for $70 for the regulated tank. The new Altaros regulator for the AirForce tank should work well at $150 but adds length to the bottle.
Yes, .177 valving can be a bit tricky. The standard “.177″ tank with standard valving is really the way to go… At least with full length condor. Not sure what goes on with a 12” but I bet its still metering air while the pellet has already exited! Really need a smaller ported valve. The .177 bore creates alot of back pressure upon the valve , but you also want a shorter stroke and duration of valve opening. Difficult balancing act.
Ya know,,,,, the .177 does well on CO2 probably more so with a short barrel…. However, you probably got the most useful solution with a regulator…. 💡
I would imagine if you didnt get a nice round circle cut, both the outer and the more difficult to achieve, inner circumference could suffer from poor tolerances that might catch or rub and interfere causing friction or binding.
The inner and outer circumferences of the of the breech are radiused so the hammer can’t contact them any way. No reason to crowd either edge of the damper to the point where it can possibly rub or drag. The outer is easy to cut with scissors. The inner would need a .375″ hole punch.
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As far as loss of performance: 90D is pretty hard. And something softer or thicker than what I used might actually be an improvement in the over all performance if it would help the valve to partially lock and self regulate at higher pressures. I had to go to a regulated setup to get anything but a pressure dependant downward slope of velocity vs pressure. There was no flat shot string with the standard valve through a 12″ .177 barrel. And no adjustability. 15fpe with any pellet, spring preload, or top hat adjustment.
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But that is a whole other topic. The Crosman valves shoot a much flatter and adjustable shot string.
I would use a gasket punch and just pop ’em out cookie cutter style!
I would imagine if you didnt get a nice round circle cut, both the outer and the more difficult to achieve, inner circumference could suffer from poor tolerances that might catch or rub and interfere causing friction or binding.
The padding will definetely dampen the hammer slap, but it does it by redistribution of force. Some of the force acting upon the valve is now being taken up into the elasicity of the substrate. So somewhere in the hardness x thickness x ect… There is the obvious diminishment of return or performance.
I dont have a picture of one of the ones i have recently done lately,,,, but easy to describe how I just turn a brass hammer on the lathe and have simply included a groove in the face. The groove is deep enough to where I insert a thick heavy Viton O-ring that seats against front facing business end of the hammer. Although I intended to use adhesive, it fits snug enough and stays in place with just enough clearance to cushion the delrin breech bridge from getting smacked too violently by the bare metal of the hammer, preventing extrusion or malformation of the delrin from being worked by the repeated blows of the hammers harder metal face.
I also just had an afterthought to add to the overall idea of things….one point is that it would seem that the delrin breech-bridge has a good amount of elascicity in and of itself too. Additionally, I would think that It not only is getting worked by hammer blows but also recieves a large charge of expanding internal pressure too. I theorize that over time that the breech may fail due to imbrittlement and stress fracture as its elasicity fatiques over the course of repeatedly being worked.
Just my :2cents:
I cut out a piece of 90D urethane and bonded it onto the breech slide with type 77 3M adhesive (just what I had) and it hasn’t budged yet. 3M weatherstip adhesive would be even stronger. It was a pain to cut the inner hole but it did tame the sharp ting of the hammer slap. If I think it is really holding up to be a worthwile mod, I could take the rest of my small sheet to the local maker space and laser or water jet cut it to fit.
I might be mistaken, but I thought that bonding to Delrin is near impossible. Aren’t the hammer ends and the breechslide made of Delrin?
Cheers
I hear ya! Definitely try the leather. You can pick up a piece at just about any hobby or craft store.
Wildfire :5:
I like cost effective mods. I only paid $450 for the whole air rifle.
wildfire is right, get Tony’s hammer, dont skimp, do it right the first time..
I think I read a post some time back about the same thing. I don’t remember what section it was in though. I would use a thin piece of leather or suede though. Less bounce.
Tony’s hammer with slap mod can’t be beat if you’re looking for a surefire solution.
Wildfire :5:
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I dunno? The Oring on the face of my diy hammer works pretty good for me…..