Does the AF sear actually rock into position
when the safety is disengaged?
Just looking at everything out of the gun. This is a crude way of looking at all the parts out of the gun, but it works. Shown are in order. Old parts, factory parts except safety, and factory plus SuperSear.
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Got it. I don’t call that the sear. I’ve heard it called the striker latch. Whatever you call it I think that oval has to be there.
i understand you, doug.
its that way because when the hammer is on its way back(cocking), the hammer sear is pulled forward enough to clear the intermediate bar instead of rubbing it or perhaps even jamming it before its fully engaged, when the sear comes back to meet the intermediate.
best i can do. i know youre referring to the oblong slot where it rides the pin.
Why is this so difficult? The second piece in the picture has a slot where the pin goes through it. It is not a round hole.
The pinhole is round on all my sears. That gap/cut just makes it look weird. I just figured it was where they cut parts in one continuous motion. Maybe a high pressure water cutter to do the little parts ❓
Yes it does rock into postion. The hammer release drops down and back at least 1mm. This movement represents the redistribution of wt from the safety slide (block) to full sear support.
Thanks tagdagger.
i dont see why not, but the sear would likely rub thr intermediate bar during cocking, but thats all.
if you pull it off, could you PLEASE consider making one for me? i got the scratch…
Not those slots. The pin hole for the sear is a slot and not round. I would like to make it just round.
the slots are just there to allow sloppy QC on AFs behalf. makes them amazingly unstable, mechanically…
So if you don’t use a safety you could make a sear without the slot? I would like to make a new sear and I wonder if I could make it with a .125″ hole instead.
Yes it does rock into postion. The hammer release drops down and back at least 1mm. This movement represents the redistribution of wt from the safety slide (block) to full sear support.
Looks like one ultra dangerous way to make a “safety”… 😯
I think my setup could reveal more if I could get the springs shown and under tension, but it sure appears to work that way. I’ll work on it more later, but I have to put it back together and go squirrel hunting before the season goes out. Using springers and rimfires at the moment.
That would certainly account for the misfires where the sear ledge is too small or the spring pressure at the middle sear is not absolutely right.
Looks like one ultra dangerous way to make a “safety”… 😯
Well, I realize what I did with the wood block is pretty crude and isn’t exact. That said in the first photo with the safety engaged it looks like it could prevent the sear from engaging until the hammer push engages it once the safety is taken off again.
Clear as mud. 😀
reason the sear disengages with safety is the friction between safety pulls hammer sear forward, off of the intermediate ledge.. other than that, i dont get the question
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Yeah I’m wondering if that is there for the safety to work. I guess I need to put one of my bare frames in the mill and locate all the holes on my DRO. Then put a piece of aluminum in and drill the hole in there exact places they are and do some testing.