Doing some mods to Edguns
I brought this up a while back as I was concerned about the bigger calibers holding a perfect zero due to how these two parts were aligned and held in place, with only the compression of the moderator as it tightens down. One of the members here confirmed his 30 cal. was moving a bit in this area so I think this is a good mod. It is proactive in my case but none the less I have done these for OG and myself. Judge for yourself.
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Did you only dowel the breech block to the center scope support / barrel tunnel or did you also dowel the center scope support/barrel tunnel to the front barrel support & air tube “band” that connects to the trigger as well? I’m guessing the doweling isn’t as critical on the air tube band / trigger support as it is captured to the center scope support/barrel tunnel by the dovetail to attach the scope rail.
I’m getting ready to do the same mod to my .25 R3M, if for no other reason than it can’t hurt and can only help consistency…
Interesting. I am not getting notifications again and found this by reading through the posts. Hopefully, Ed will comment since he is coming back online soon.
I would also like to hear if he has done anything with the 30 cal valve stems breaking. Knock on wood mine first one is still holding at about 1150 shots and I don’t shoot the 30 much and I have two spares from Tony but it must be on borrowed time and I hate to have it break when I am beading on a raccoon.
:8:
Excellent solution to a potential problem.
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I only done the rear joint as it has no locating or registration, just 2 flat faces and only relies on the tightening and compression of the moderator when installing and the rear alignment is quite variable and you loose zero easily by loosening the Mod. and re-tightening it. The front is semi floated by an o-ring in the adapter and is more stable as well as dove-tailed to the scope mounting system. I thought this was the closest you could get to proper and repeatable alignment and still keeping the barrel floating in the front o-ring.