Easy way to empty air bottle

benneeb0y,
Check my comments back on your other post.

PS. Some of the mods should only be done by a machinist with highly accurate equipment. I don’t have access to a machine shop now and have to laugh at my attempt to vent my front bushing on my 12″ .177 barrel. I used a hand drill mounted to a cheep drill press apparatus. Damn holes don’t go straight. It looks like HELL and I would be ashamed to show a picture of it. But, it’s out of sight and did the job of reducing the muzzle noise and replacing it with a HELL of a tank PING that they say was covered up by muzzle blast.

Moral of the story…if some guy says he can do a machining job for you…make sure he’s got real machines to do the job…Especially if the job will show on the outside of the gun ❗

Other AIR BOTTLE TRICKS
Rather than start another thread that would include all the good tricks above under a title of Air Bottle Tricks, here’s how I’ve found to safely install the Hi-Flo valve into the Condor tank;

After polishing the Hi-Flo Valve Stem and Top Hat, lightly set the grub screws with the Top Hat flush with the end of the Valve Stem, get the Valve stem started into the Valve Body by hand working it in far enough that with a dime inserted in the steal Valve Safety Cap and with the Valve Safety Cap pointed down under the tank, when done properly the dime seats itself flat with the Valve Stem (you may see circular marks on the face of the dime), now slowly work the Valve Stem into position backing off the Valve Safety Cap periodically to make sure the Stem is staying flush with the dime. Slowly screw the Valve Safety Cap on until the air just starts to escape. Be careful and go very slowly as the more air that is escaping the harder it becomes to back off the Cap and stop the flow. You don’t want the air to escape to rapidly as that can weaken the tank. If you go to far and can’t back off the Cap by hand to stop the flow you either wait for the pressure to diminish or have a big slip jaw pliers handy. The pliers will mess up the looks of the Cap but you will have saved a little air pumping. It’s best to go very slow and stop at the first sound of air escaping and then back off. With the Valve Stem seated this far, remove the Valve Safety Cap, if the air escape hissing doesn’t stop let it all escape slowly and ask for help to get the seal reset. All hissing stopped then proceed to remove the Cap and install the bottle on the rifle and dry fire a couple of times in a safe direction as always. The Valve may need a few additional shots at the range with pellets to stabilize after being replaced and of course, you need to loosen the grub screws and make your desired Top Hat Clearance adjustments.

This was all explained to me by “edward” and it worked for me.

I came up with 2 reinforced nylon auto body trim pry bars to remove my Hi-Flo Valve Stem with the Top Hat attached. Harbor Freight item #95214. Actually I use the two with forked ends from the opposite direction in order to keep from bending the Valve stem.
WARNING, this only works on some of the Hi-Flo Valves. If you don’t know what you’ve got, call AF or don’t try it. AF may have changed the parts before or after they made mine. Check with AF first. They will be happy to sell parts to a live customer. Pulling the Valve out of some air tanks can result in serious injury or death.

Or put two dimes in your fill adapter and screw it on until you hear air escaping.

You can also do it with the airforce protective valve cap and dimes http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/AirForce_protective_steel_valve_cap/924

Way to go Leroy I told you that if you played around with enough of this Air stuff you would come up with good ideas just don’t forget you have a tank in there and think you are full length sizing a case LOL 😆