Q:

Edgun #2040 Initial Impression.

Okay, the Edgun came today and better late than never. Won’t use the post office any more for this type of shipment.

Filled to 200 BAR indicated on my large gauge on the tank. Manometer on rifle was 20 BAR off, no big deal.

I took 5 shots to get on the paper at 10 feet and then backed up to 22 and turned on the chrony.

Started at shot #6 at 870 fps. Fired 45 shots. Low of 870, High 908, which is a pretty big spread I thought. The SD was 12 fps I think.

I did see more consistency in the middle of the curve so next string, I filled to 150 bar indicated on the rifle (180 on the tank gauge) and fired 25 shots for record. Low 885, High 908, Average 898. The SD was low IIRC, maybe 5 fps or so.

But I saw the best accruacy at speeds from 870 tp 890 on both ends of the curve. So I think I’ll adjust it down just a fuzz. I’m shooting JSB 18.1.

This one is the 2.5 version with the extra LDC on the end. But it’s different from my first. The first one had male threads on the outside portion of the shroud and female threads on the inside of the LDC. This one has female threads on the inside of the shroud and a threaded male portion that threads into it. It is quiet.

The length with the extra LDC is 32.5″ which is the same as my Talon Stubby. Without the LDC, it’s 29″ or so and still pretty quiet. If I take the 6″ shroud off of the Talon to get it to 29″, it’s as loud as a .22 rifle. Actually louder than my .22 firing subsonic rimfire ammo.

Weight wise, the Edgun wins hands down.

I’ll get some pics up.

I’ve got a Vortex Diamondback 4-12×40 AO BDC on it right now. But I’m thinking about buying something exotic glass wise.

I’ve looked at the Laser Rangefinding Scopes but didn’t find good reviews on them. I’ve never tried a Trijicon ACOG but I’m tempted. Of course, it could certainly serve on one of my AR’s as well. SWFA is coming out will the Mil Quad reticle on their entry level glass, 6x, 10x, 12x, 16x and 20x. IOR has some cool offerings, the 2-12×32 with their fine MP-8 reticle. So does the Leupold VXR. Or I may just stick with the Vortex or my tried and true Simmons Whitetail Classic 6.5-20×50 AO Mildot. I just don’t know.

I’ll post some pics soon.

EdGun

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Viewing 13 replies - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)

quote longhunter:

quote libertyman777:

quote longhunter:

any idea when SWFA is going to have those new scopes on the market?

I heard Spring over at the Optics Talk. I just posted for an update on the timeline.

i just went over to a site, ( just google SWFA ), and they have them listed as being in stock.

Nope, not yet. They have the older mil/moa scopes in stock and they have the more expensive HD models in stock that are mil/mil but the less expensive $299-$399 models with the new mil-quad reticle and mil based turrets are not in stock. But they are accepting orders.

http://swfa.com/SWFA-SS-MRAD-Scopes-C4225.aspx

quote libertyman777:

quote longhunter:

any idea when SWFA is going to have those new scopes on the market?

I heard Spring over at the Optics Talk. I just posted for an update on the timeline.

i just went over to a site, ( just google SWFA ), and they have them listed as being in stock.

quote LEE IN VA.:

That gun looks familiar. 🙄

😀

quote oldgoat:

Libertyman, try backing out the second screw and turning the front screw in for the trigger adjustment. You might need to buy a longer 3 mm X .50 mm pitch allen head screw to get the needed adjustment. If you have to go with a longer screw, round the end of it off with a file or grinder.

If I am reading your comment correctly and the rear screw is touching the hammer spring rod bar (what ever it is called), you loose a lot of mechanical advantage and the trigger pull ends up being higher.

I don’t want the second screw or the rear of the trigger to ever touch the hammer spring rod bar. I take the rear screw out of my Matadors and just use the front screw. By front screw, I mean the one closest to the trigger. The trigger can be set up with as much creep as you want and the second stage is pretty damn good. I usually turn the screw in untill the gun will not cock and then turn it out some and adjust from there.

It is an easy mod, you can go back to the stock setup and I think that you will like the results.

Okay, I’ll give that a go.

Libertyman, try backing out the second screw and turning the front screw in for the trigger adjustment. You might need to buy a longer 3 mm X .50 mm pitch allen head screw to get the needed adjustment. If you have to go with a longer screw, round the end of it off with a file or grinder.

If I am reading your comment correctly and the rear screw is touching the hammer spring rod bar (what ever it is called), you loose a lot of mechanical advantage and the trigger pull ends up being higher.

I don’t want the second screw or the rear of the trigger to ever touch the hammer spring rod bar. I take the rear screw out of my Matadors and just use the front screw. By front screw, I mean the one closest to the trigger. The trigger can be set up with as much creep as you want and the second stage is pretty damn good. I usually turn the screw in untill the gun will not cock and then turn it out some and adjust from there.

It is an easy mod, you can go back to the stock setup and I think that you will like the results.

That gun looks familiar. 🙄

Pics.

I’m not much of a camera man.

I did get the trigger adjusted. The trigger assembly only needed threaded in a couple of turns. I put the rear screw down touching the bar and the front screw just shy for a little bit of take up before it stops. About 1.5 pounds and it breaks.

You were correct Old Goat. I ran the hammer spring in about 3/4 turn. The power increased to 915 so I backed it out and it decreased to 905. Once more and it was at 890. I ran about 25 shots at that setting and it creeped up to a high of 907 and had started back down. I’ll check again tomorrow but I think it’s good.

pics?

quote longhunter:

any idea when SWFA is going to have those new scopes on the market?

I heard Spring over at the Optics Talk. I just posted for an update on the timeline.

any idea when SWFA is going to have those new scopes on the market?

Well, I’m not sure about the shipping situation. Close examination of the box shows that it was marked with one Priority Mail sticker and was also marked Parcel Post. I think it was probably a tie that didn’t go to the runner. I paid for Priority Mail but it wound up going Parcel Post. But it’s here and that’s all that matters.

I’ve done the Hawke scopes in the past. I had one of the Sidewinder Tactical scopes, the 10×42. The reticle was nice and the glass was okay but it didn’t touch the Vortex Diamondback or the Bushnells. But it does have a side focus so that’s a plus for the higher magnifications.

I wish some of the higher end manufacturers would produce some suitable airgun glass. About the only thing going are some low power variables and fixed 4x scopes that would be great for a hunting rifle like the Edgun or the Talon/Condor. Schott glass has spoiled me. I’m thinking about a fixed 4x.

@Old Goat:

I’ll give that a shot but I did see a curve.

May not get pics up tonight. Wifey caught the stomach flu from one of the kids and is feeling pretty rough.

your in for some fun Liberty man! and I missed your post on the shipping problem! I posted there but got busy and didn’t check back and see if you got your Edgun! so what was the problem? Sitting on a table in the post office with no place to go!! 😯 😯

Libertyman, don’t turn the HST screw down, turn it up to where the gun starts out at 890. Fill it to 200 bar. I think that your HST screw is out too far and the speed rises as the air pressure decreases.

Starting at 890 should give you a smooth shot string.

Go with the Hawke scope!

go for true and tried Hawke Tactical 30 6.5-20×42

and post some pics NOW! 😛

Viewing 13 replies - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)

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