EdGun Regulator Adjusting Question HELP!
Ok, so I finally took the plunge and took my Matador R3 apart… 😯 😯 😯
😆
Pretty easy actually. :16:
So I go in, take everything apart, clean it and screw the reg in 1/4 turn. Prior to adjusting the regulator I sent a few pellets over the chronograph, it was shooting in the mid 860’s at around 125 bar.
Now it’s shooting in the low 900’s at around 160bar without any change to the HST.
Is there a pressure I need to shoot it down to to get the regulator to take a set or something?
I’m confused how lowering the regulator setting would raise the output.
Or did I turn it the wrong way? The reg was marked 130 in sharpie (it’s a 177 standard). I made a mark at noon and turned it clockwise to three (the inner nut was an allen, the outer was slotted and both were reverse threaded).
All Replies
Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)
A little late to the party eh Hoot? 😆
I think I went a full turn in and then another half a turn in on the reg, must have spun it too far in (and lost count) when looking to see what direction the nut was going.
I backed out the HST about one full turn (from the 860fps string above) looking for the end of the string velocity climb as it fell of the reg. Shot it down to 55bar with a velocity around 805 and it slowly fell off the reg losing about 5fps per shot.
I think I could back out the HST a bit more before I would see the velocity rise as it falls off the reg.
Live and learn. 😉
Here’s some Youtube videos regarding the Edgun regulator removal, dis-assembly, and adjustments.
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=adjusting+edgun+regulator&sm=3
Here is the latest string… I noticed that when the regulator is set properly the HST adjustments are easier. Before I changed the reg setting just a little HST adjustment would change the velocity by a lot of fps, now it is easier to adjust and the fps changes are smaller.
Shot from 150bar to 75bar before I saw a real loss of velocity. Only got 100 shots in though… 
Strings go chronological from left to right, the one on the left being the most recent. The graph is of the most recent string.
I think I need to turn the HST down slightly and see if the drop off at the end is slower and if I can get the variation down under 10fps.
Note: Only the first and last strings (far right and left) are run until it goes off the regulator. You can see the difference now how the reg was set too high for the velocity (fps go up at the end) and now where the reg is set low so the fps hold steady and then go down at the end.
Keep working on it. You’ll get it dialed quickly.
Just got done putting it back together.
Sure enough the regulator adjustment screw is normal (right/clockwise to screw it in) I double triple checked… The cap screw is reverse threaded, slotted. The regulator adjusting screw is an allen head.
I decided to screw it in another 1/4 turn clockwise (a total for 1/2 a turn clockwise) since I was in there. Filled it to 175bar, that’s all I have left in the tank right now. 🙁
It’s shooting 885 without adjusting the HST. Ran about 15 pellets through it and got a max fps jump of under 8fps and a total variation of 10 fps. So the HST is either too far in or out. Lubed the action up with the red grease (bought what looks like a pint from Autozone, I think I have enough to last a lifetime :shock:) smells minty fresh now instead of like stinky grease. 😆
Thanks to everyone for your help! :8:
I can confirm there are indeed two different reg adjusters
On both my Eds old reg style in 22 new style in 25 The lock screw is reversed threads. The reg pressure screw is normal thread.
You turn the inner reg screw clockwise which sets it deeper into valve body to reduce output. If your inner reg screw is reversed thread like lock screw then turn counterclockwise to move deeper in valve body. I used a depth micro to verify initial setting along with mark on body so I knew my starting point even after complete disassembly.
Back out HST 1.5 turns for 1/4 reg adjustment is good start. I’d shoot reg down just below 100 bar first run
then refill to 200 and start adjusting HST until you get your flattest string barring odd pellet jumps.
1/4 turn in on my 22 resulted in appx 35fps drop.
Hi Syn,
When you turn down the reg pressure you’ll have to turn down the hst to.
Because of the lower pressure the valve gets less ressistance and opens up longer.
So, it sounds weird but when you lower your reg pressure turn down the hst 1 turn and start testing.
Regards, Robert
I think because it’s backwards a few people got a little confused. 😉 😆
I wanted MONTHS to do this thinking it would be a nerve racking experience. It was so easy I can’t even believe it! The simplicity and ease of maintenance only adds to the beauty of these rifles. I’m really looking forward to getting some consistency at the right velocity, it will make an already accurate rifle even more accurate.
I thought I had turned it back up to the high 800’s but upon checking my chrony logs I had left it in the mid 800’s. It was producing some 18 fps jumps between shots here and there… 😕 😯
862.2
854.2
848.4
866.4
861.5
855.1
864.6
859.0
862.2
849.7
861.1
856.3
848.4
855.3
863.6
857.4
Correct if yours has a reversed thread like mine you will need to turn it counter clockwise to say 9 o clock from your factory set 12 o clock mark..
It seems there must be two different regs with both l/h and r/h threads..
Yes, clockwise removed the set screw.
Check out this thread…
http://www.talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=27594
Ernest says clockwise to reduce. Then Demp says turning the screw into the body will decrease the velocity but he says clockwise and if the threads are reversed then clockwise is backing the screw out.
Looks like I need to reduce the volume of the Bellevue washer chamber, which would mean turning the screw in (counterclockwise motion).
Good thing this thing is so easy to disassemble!!!
I need to get some regular grease, the lithium I had worked in a pinch, I need to grab some moly from the hardware store and clean/relube the action when I take it apart tomorrow.
yes clockwise would remove the screw..
The inner adjuster screw has a plastic seat on it that seals against the end of the rotor when it comes up to set pressure, the further away the seat is from the rotor (holding the belleville washers) the higher the pressure will be before it seals.
So as you described it, if you increase size of the chamber where the Bellevue washers are located it will increase the power..
You first need to confirm that the adjuster screw is a l/h (reverse) thread which would mean you turn it clockwise to remove it from the reg?
By left hand thread do you mean clockwise would loosen up the screw?
When I took off the cap I turned it clockwise and it came off.
I have been told that turning the screw clockwise would reduce the pressure.
Perhaps if I understood how the regulator unit works it may be easier.
If I increase size of the chamber where the Bellevue washers are located what happens to the velocity?
I increased it with the latest adjustment.
Thanks WM. 😀
We were just discussing this on Hemns thread and now you have me second guessing myself again..
If your adjuster screw is a l/h thread then yes you turned it the wrong way to lower it..
Now I was sure mine was a L/H thread too but is been a while since I had it apart
My Veles pistol defiantly has a L/H thread adjuster screw as Ive just had it apart..
Has the adjuster screw changed to a RH thread on the later model R3’s?
Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
Syphilitic Swine!!!
Kindest regards,
Uncle H 😯 😯 t