Edgun shooting high
Put a Leupold VX3 6.5-20 x 40 on the Edgun and even though I’ve got it the elevation dialed all the way down, I’m still shooting high, about 3″ at 40 yds.
At 10m it’s ok, but farther than that it’s a bust. Got it on Leupold low mounts, and I can’t see a way to lower the rail.
I don’t have any other scopes to put on there and compare, so any help appreciated.
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Viewing 13 replies - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)
Olgoat hit the nail I’m the head…I’d hate to have to sell my matador because the “new one” would have different parts than the R3…..or the new parts not be comparable with the R3….because waiting over a year for a gun to have the next model come out right after would suck.
Thanks oldgoat, looks like a few of us have problems with a lower rail affecting the sighting-in, so insteaqd of ripping it apart I’ll use the Burris mount, which will let me use a very-close-to-centered scope without having to use much adjustment on the scope.
Meantime the gun is chronying about 912fps, so I’ll be using your instructions to tone that down a bit once the gun has had some time to settle in.
Thanks Ed. I thought that you would consider the Matadors with all of the latest improvements to still be R3s.
R3, I consider all the improvements so small that I don’t want to call it by other specification đ
Veerkracht: I was going to suggest the same thing!
When I got my R3 25 long, it shot to the right. If I sighted it in at 50 yards, it would shoot to the right at 100 and be farther off to the right at 125 yards.
I loosened the baffle nut up and then retightened it. That took care of the problem.
RCMann, Ed has a Youtube video on removing the barrel, you need to do a search for it and do what he does.
When I got my R3 25 long, it was included in a shipment of Matadors that only had 4, 25 longs included. They were the first R3 25 longs in the US. Back then, Ed didnât have a video on removing the barrel. I basically came up with what Ed now shows on his videos but: I didnât have a 20 mm open end wrench! I have at least $6000 worth of SAE and metric hand tools from Âźâ up to žâ but, no 20 mm open end wrench. 20 mm is an oddball size that, after 45 years of working on stuff, I never needed until; I tried to remove the baffle nut! I found one at the local hardware store but; it was too wide and needed ground down a little.
OK, I ground the sides of the wrench down some and I then tried to loosen the baffle nut. I couldnât get it loose! I had to PM Ed and ask if the nut was reverse threads or, was it epoxied on? He replied back that it wasnât reverse threads; it was just really tightened down. Mine sure was, it took a big tug to get it loose.
Edâs video shows the R3âs barrel/scope mounts/breech assembly after it has been removed from the gun. If you have a vice and some heavy padding for the jaws, and you were very careful, you might be able to loosen and tighten the baffle nut without removing the barrel/scope mounts/breech assembly from the gun. If you donât have a vice and you donât know anyone that does, I wouldnât attempt to try loosening the baffle nut!
My R3 25 long takes a 20 mm wrench. My newer R3 22 long and R3 25 standard both take a 19 mm wrench.
One thing that I find interesting is that a lot of guys have been posting here about their R3.5s. Ed makes constant improvements on his Matadors and when he made a HUGE change on his R 2.5, he called it a R3. The R3s had a completely different barrel/scope rail/breech setup and IMHO, it was a big improvement over the R 2.5.
After a couple of US shipments, the newer R3s first had an improved air valve and regulator assembly, the next batch, or so, had the aluminum breech and stainless steel cocking bolt, the latest ones come with a trigger that only has one screw to set the first and second stages on the trigger.
I donât have a Matador with the single screw trigger so, I donât know if Ed has changed the triggerâs internals but; Mamcrackin and I came up with a single screw trigger mod for the R 2.5 around 3 years ago. It will be interesting to see the internals of the single screw Matadors.
The thing that I am getting at is: I havenât seen where either Ed, or Tony, has called the latest guns R 3.5s. If Ed raised the R number each time that he made and improvement or made changes on the Matador, he would be up to at least R 4.5 right now and the next shipment might be a R 5 or higher! OOPS, I forgot about the baffle nut change from 20 mm to 19 mm! I guess that the next improvement will make it an R 5.5!
Ed, that sneaky Russian, continuously does running improvements on his Matadors so we will have to sell our outdated ones and buy the latest revision! đŻ
That would really suck if you had to sell your current Matador for a loss and come up with extra cash for the improved version!
Since you can easily sell your used Matador for AT LEAST what you paid for it; itâs all good! đ
So: Ed and Tony, what are the current Matadors called?
Inquiring minds want to know!
You can also try to loosen the barrel (moderator) and then tighten it again.
Sometimes it settles a little bit different.
It might just be what you need.
Use a 19MM wrench.
Regards Robert.
So I guess I won’t be shooting anything farther than 10 yards for a week or so…just ordered the Burris Signature and a set of inserts…Clint, not sure if you need 1″ or 30mm, but Brownell’s has the 1″ insert kits…part number is 626019.
I just mounted my Hawke 8-32×56 with medium rings on R3.5 25cal Long.
Turned turrets full stop to each end counting clicks then centered. At 20x at 20 yds was 3 clicks off windage and 20 clicks to high. Set far zero at 45yds.
The initial centered reticle would have given me a far zero of appx 70yds if I was reading click chart correctly in Charigun.
Swapping rings made no difference for me.
Clint
Yes, the rail is tilted slightly on my 25 cal R3.
Same thing with my new 22 R3 Standard. I think Ed now has the rail tilting down slightly to allow for more up elevation range. I shimmed the front ring .010″ with brass shim stock and that was enough to allow me to zero. I now have a set of Burris Signature Zee rings on order. Unfortunately, the offset inserts are out of stock most everywhere.
Swapping rings made no difference for me.
Clint
you can try swapping your rings front to back. It probably won’t make any difference, but if one is a bit taller than the other it could help.
Other fixes are bit more complex; you can shim, or use adjustable rings or a different rail.
Time to shim then – if you don´t have adjustable/compensating rings laying around. It ain´t good being into extremes on scope adjustments anyways.
Viewing 13 replies - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)
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OG wrote : “Ed, that sneaky Russian, continuously does running improvements on his Matadors so we will have to sell our outdated ones and buy the latest revision! That would really suck if you had to sell your current Matador for a loss and come up with extra cash for the improved version!”
Hi OG!!
I agree with you. My R3 is shooting so well I would not consider selling it to get a new, unproven gun. However, when the mutli shot kit is available, I’m going to install it on my R3.
My R3 has settled down and it is spitting out 25.3 jsbs at 890 fps. I’m getting 70 tight shots from 210 bar down to 100 bar. The spread is 10-12 fps :wink:. It’s my sledge hammer.
I have a .22 cal cricket that is not as efficient but it is very, very accurate. I’m getting 5 fps ES over a complete fill for 70 shots. I do have to fill it to 250 bar though. It is putting hurt on my tank. I may need to invest in a Shoebox.
Also, the cricket shroud is not great. I can still hear a sharp snap when I shoot. My R3 does not have that “snap”. It’s more of a lower pitched crack. I’m having Neil Clague make an air stripper shroud for my cricket. According to another person who has the same gun and NC shroud, it is quieter than the factory shroud. The factory shroud is almost 11 inches and the Neil’s shroud is going to be 16 inches. It is also carbon fiber. Can’t wait to try it out.
have a great day!!
Gabe G.