Even shorter Talon… with internal baffles… Opinions?
So I’ve been on a serious SHORT kick lately.
My Talon frame with a 12″ barrel and a cut down SS internal baffle insert is quiet enough for me. It only fits about 1.5″ inches into the frame and extends about 2.5″.
I need to replace a bushing. I stripped the set screws last swap, must not have been aligned well. It’s fine now but I won’t swap again until I get a new bushing. The fubared one is vented and does help. I don’t have a drill press so i’d be buying a vented one.
So, before I spend that $40ish, here’s what is stuck in my head. Lets spend MORE and have a 12″ barrel cut down a bit to yield more free space between the barrel and standard endcap AND have the vented bushing made to ALSO be a baffle set that runs right to the frame end. And I mean to the end, to the point where the last inch would need to be milled so the stock endcap would still fit in the frame.
This would work even better on a 12″ in an ss frame, but I’m staying with the short talon frame.
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Maybe if you drilled 2 holes of just the right size , and angle ,location. ?
Your changes are good for the detail work, I was just trying to toss out a rough visual. Only problem I see is with your first ‘baffle’. The insert will need to be one piece AND incorporate the front bushing. Not having any machining experience, Im not sure how to accomplish the arc you drew without finding someone with big $$ tooling.
I have a spare 18″ barrel that I might just sacrifice. The bushing size will make it harder to vent liberally. I need to corner the guy down the street who has a machine shop in his garage and talk turkey. He’s offered, he did stuff for my jeep (and his) just never asked him do a precision one off.
sounds like a cool project.
i played with your design a little. if you can get what i was trying to do , and you called your picture ruff.
give the first baffel a curve to direct air , small .223 hole going thru baffel and the exit hole . plenty big holes in frame bushing , and plenty of hole for your frame vents.
cut barrle down as much as possible to make shroud as long as pemitted buy space.
just a thought or two.
Poorly drawn visual. Notes got a little small. Hobby money is still limited (no perm job yet) but when things pick up I think I’m going to give this a go.
Efficiency was mentioned. Don’t really care. It’s a CO2 rig with a 20oz tank and shoots plenty hard for it’s intended purpose, a reasonable lose of power would not be a problem. Accuracy is a concern though, especially with all the CO2 still expanding beyond the barrel end.
Cutting from the breech end would be best to save the choke as well.
i would be careful about how short i cut the barrel to; velocity/accuracy could be affected
I think if you put the Guido attachment on there and had the HPA tank in a backpack you could take far more length off than messing with the barrel… 😉 Make a side folding stock… And use the extra room for a good shroud…
Or you could devise a shroud/bushing barrel carrier that inserts into the frame and is held with newly tapped screws anywhere you want… That way the barrel could stay as long as it is and the shroud would go back to the location of the original bushing and hold powerwheel in place… The shroud could then outlet into the chamber where the hammer and spring sit… Or if you want to get really compact, have the shroud become the spring stop and lose the PW all together… 😯
This way the rifle could be returned to it’s original config with only a few threaded holes to show for the work…
Yep. I want the endcap on (instead of the cut down shroud thing) and almost as quite. This is a .177 and it’s CO2.. Used 75% from 10-20 yards indoors and 25% at 30y outdoors. It’s also my shortest overall rifle with the endcap installed (yes – shorter than my EDgun) but it will also make your ears ring indoors. That chopped up shroud works better than one I paid good money on to replace it. If the baffle system is integrated with the bushing, the set screws from bushing part to barrel can be moved back an inch or two and the frame set screws would hold the whole thing in place. The bushing end could be designed without regard to accommodating the frame set screws (for maximum flow) and tiny vents in the frame (edgun shroud style) would probably yield the same or better than I currently have.
I know this is going to cost more than an existing solution but this is fun for me. I’m going to attempt a drawing (don’t expect much).
Do you want the OAL to be shorter than the gun in the bottom pic? Are you planning to cut the 12″ barrel shorter to get more airspace in the frame? What caliber are you shooting?
Muzzel = Endcap, or barrel end in your thoughts?
This is what I’m using now (yes – it’s a home hacked Dong, originally for an SS). the barrel end was cut to fit in my frame and drilled out to fit over the barrel. Bassically, think this with an incorporated bushing on one end, a few baffles and with the frame end milled so the stock endcap will still fit, shroud would extend into the endcap.
Totally invisible, could build the bushing and first baffle to push as much air backward as possible, might even vent the frame.
On this gun
Whewww….!
I misread that at first 😯
i think that it sounds good but im not too shure how baffels would do behind the muzzel since it will be easyer for the air to rush out the front and still make the noise…just a thought 🙄
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Bean, If you replace the talon frame you’re using with an origional, could you not lose a good portion of the power adjuster window?