Exploding pellets – things to use… or other pellet mods
people use ring caps, and they are fairly effectively, which is potassium perchlorate.
Anything stronger? Special mixes with gun powerder or rifle powders?
I was thinking about mixing the PP in high concentrations with glue, silly putty, spackle, etc…
I’m sure we’ve all seen the split pellet, tracer with the worm glue, incendiary, and whatever else is on the the shootingegg’s channel.
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actually not exactly accurate…
there remains a murky hobbiest exemption to the licensing requirement for the pyrotechnic crowd based on amount of material and immediate use.
there are other examples as well such as binary explosives, ie Kenestick and Tannerite. These things are cash & carry and are only classified as explosive once the two components are mixed which is where they become subject to magazine storage requirements and the like.
Besides Tannerite Skylight Explosives also offers their explosive binary targets…these things pack a serious punch!
There is a great deal of near deliberate disinformation out there on the pyro hobby when it comes to what is and is not flat legal
on the explosive projectile front some will claim they are illegal
not exactly true either as they restricted sale after idiot Hinkley shot Regan with .22 Exploder rounds…the interesting aspect is not one round detonated! Junk!
What is illegal is to sell them in Interstate commerace as an FFL, same with the AP handgun ammo ban. If you are not an FFL you can own and indeed sell the grandfathered ammo
of course State laws can differ widely
ATFE does have serious issues with the pyro and amature rocketry community but rarily interfere with either
its about the same case as airgun moderators…
It would seem that to go any further than potassium perchlorate, you need to have an explosive license from the BATFE form 54.00013 I think It’s a 54 form on homeland securities website.
Potassium perchlorate you can have 1 lb a year without the license.
mix it in water then drip the slurry in. and let it dry
LOL…no such thing as a low grade of tri iodide
as fulminating mixture go that one is insanely sensitive unless its kept damp
seriously bad bad JooJoo to mess with
here are a few possibilities that use somewhat common percursors:
CHLORATE PRIMERS
OR “FRICTION PRIMERS”
NOTE: All primers in this chapter must be mixed wet with a 5 % gum arabic solution.
Parts are by weight. It’s a good idea to add 1 % anti acid like chalk.
MIXTURE 1:
The potassium chlorate in this formula must be one-half powdered and one-half
granulated.
Potassium chlorate: 2
Antimony sulfide : 1
MIXTURE 2:
PC : 56.2
Antimony sulfide : 24.6
Sulfur : 9.0
MIXTURE 3:
PC : 44.6
AS : 44.6
Sulfur : 3.6
Meal powder : 3.6
MERCURY FULMINATE
Synonyms: none
FORMULA:
C2HgN2O2
VoD:
3500 m/s @ 2.0 g/cc.
4250 m/s @ 3.0 g/cc.
5000 m/s @ 4.0 g/cc.
EQUIVALENCE:
Use 1 g for #8 cap.
.75 g for #6 cap
SENSITIVITY:
Can detonate even in small quantities.
When one crystal is ignited, it deflagrates.
Heat, shock ,friction must be avoided.
DRAWBACKS:
Mercury is highly toxic. The fumes given off by this reaction are highly toxic, too.
Loading the crystals could become a problem.
COMPATIBILITY:
Mercury fulminate is stable and do not attack most metals and high explosives.
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:
The first commercial used primary explosive, since Nobel’s discovery of initiating high
explosives with primary explosives in 1867.
PREPARATION:
Chemicals:
nitric acid (70 %)
ethanol (pure or denatured)
mercury metal (switches, thermometers)
Materials:
2 glass beakers (200 ml)
heating source
filter paper
MANUFACTURE:
1. Place in the beaker 12 ml of nitric acid. Add 1 gram of mercury.
2. Let mixture sit until all mercury has dissolved without shaking or swirling.
Red fumes are produced at this process which must be avoided.
Let cool.
3. In the 2nd beaker warm 90 ml ethanol.
Add the mercury/nitric acid to this alcohol.
4. The reaction starts in about 5 minutes and takes about 25 minutes until it is over.
Red toxic fumes are also given off.
5. Filter the gray mercury fulminate out and wash with 60 ml ethanol.
Store under water until ready for loading.
As far as actual rounds in historical use here is a piece on Civil War explosive bullets…yes they were first combat used by Lincoln’s troops against fellow Americans:
chab-belgium.com/pdf/english/Exploding%20bullets.pdf
and a New York Times piece from the Civil War them:
anyways this will give a small taste
my own opinion is that its a waste of time under .308 diameter
I dont think we need to get into the hazards of baffle strikes in a mod
What about a low grade of nitrogen tri-iodide? You can make it pretty easy but its considered a “hyper sensitive explosive” and can be set off with a gust of wing, sound, and touching it with a feather or a fly anding on it. Also, the weight of itself if stacked can make it implode on itself
But thats if you make a good quality of it. Just adjust your ingredient proportions a bit and I think it should do the trick with what youre looking for. Sorry, i totally forgot the general recipe but Im thinking it uses ammonia and iodine crystals.
Yeah, it’s seeming to risky to even worry about, but I’m sure straight perch would work wonders.
Most of this stuff falls on blurry lines, but many other are, cross me and you won’t see daylight again.
you can own 1lb of potassium perchlorate per year without a licence for legal uses. I think it’s the same people who regulate silencer[/u]
Mercury coring requires extremely high velocities that an AG is incapable of.
The dipshit is all wrong about the principles behind it…
its based in disimilar masses. The Mercury goes in a drilled hole in a projectile, basically filling it by a third or less. When the slug impacts the Mercury continues forward at the same rate of speed and blows the projectile apart.
All this started years ago when first the book, then the movie The Day of the Jackel first came out. These slugs can work but you need speeds well in excess of 3000FPS.
The poisonous nature of Mercury is as well severely over rated being more of a long term environmental heavy metal toxin like lead itself.
things like Aconite, Saxotoxin, Ricin or Botulin are far better suited for that sort of use of course a projectile loaded up with any of those would be prosecuted under the Clinton era domestic terrorism act and indeed have already been.
Heres a great website out of Finland to study up on the reality of some of these things…may need to run part of it through a transilator tho:
guns.connect.fi/gow/gunwriters.html
warning, there are some extremely militant views…LOL
check the main finnish langauge website for articles on actual exploding and poisoned projectiles.
Does straight potassium perchlorate work? I know if you mix it 70/30 with aluminum powder you get flash powder which is a good bang. I don’t know if the impact alone would be enough to set off the flash. I think some people use flash filled percussion caps.
.22 is what I have ordered.
I know it won’t be as effective, but any increase fragmentation would be nice.
Shootinegg’s channel on metacafe, the PP filled .22 pellets plus many others.
http://www.metacafe.com/channels/shootingeggs/
I also found this!
-=-=-==-=-=-
-Evil Eddie-
-=-=-==-=-=-
This is another of my bastard creations. Take a hollow point bullet,
and fill the hollow point with mercury. Now take a soldering iron, and drip
a drop of solder over the point to seal it in. Note: Sometimes it is
necessary to widen the hollow point, so the bullet will fill with mercury.
Now what this does is when the bullet is shot the mercury heats up and
expands, and rips apart the victim, and if it doesn’t kill him with the first
shot the mercury gets into his blood and poisons him.
Pretty sadistic. I’m not sure I like that.
Question is what caliber are you talking about…
.22 or .25 tricks you see are mostly a waste of time…
that said, here are a few tips that are marginally effective:
http://www.eabco.com/holoptr.html
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=371968
these are both examples of some of the hollow pointing tools available. Once you have your cavity you can consider either leaving it vacant or exploring other possibilities.
Lead azide is one but tough to come by. You can play with manufacture of this and other “fillings” but its nothing I recommend to the sheer novice by any means. Another option is razor blading off the tips of strike anywhere matches and dissolving them into a thick slurry with Everclear then stuffing the cavities and letting them dry solid.. Works ok but far from reliable.
Larger bore projectiles you can either clone the old Velet design which was a pyrodex charge over a small piece of lead shot topped by a number 11 percussion cap & with truly large bore you can replicate the British hazardous game rounds which used an inverted .22RF blank slid into an appropriately sized drilled cavity.
Either work well…used the .22RF blank tipped mods on .45 & .50 projectiles for the .45-70 & .50-90 for feral Dogs. Yeah overkill but rather enjoyed the mess it made of the kill.
like a miniature hand grenade going off in the wound channel when they work…
most explosive bullet ideas are fantasy
played a bit with them in big bore AGs, have not bothered with anything under .45 tho.
???
http://www.hobbychemicalsupply.com/servlet/the-19/pyro-chemicals-potassium-perchlorate/Detail
6 bucks 1 lb
I just typed it in on google shopping. Pops right up. 😛
Pottasium perch is getting a little harder to come by, where are you getting it?
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This is the easiest and most effective way I have seen. The primer would probably fit nicely on a .25