Q:

Fill Pressure Control Unit…..

One of the problems I have is no regulator on my rifle. I have found there is a range of upper and lower psi that my pcp performs best within, and shots within that psi “zone of accuracy” have the least psi deviation between shots. The less deviation in pellet weight, and air pressure per shot, equals tight groups and clean kills.

Pellets can be weighed precisely. No problem there. Quality pellets don’t need to be weighed. They are what they say they are. (JSB, Edgun pellets, etc)

So, to avoid wasting air, and fill precisely to the max pressure in my personal “zone of accuracy”, I am unable to find a means to fill my rifle slowly…and I mean very slowly, and have the capability to shut it off within a pound or two of my known maximum pressure for an accurate first shot.

I have spoken to Jim Gaska about this, questioning what could be an affordable solution to those of us who know what pressures we need to stay within, but are unable to achieve this with OEM fill equipment and button gauges.

I’m calling it a “Fill Pressure Control Unit” for lack of a better name. Jim said he had some ideas and would get back to me with a workable solution. It shouldn’t be brain science, or rocket surgery, just a means to dial fill rate pressures up or down with precision, and a gauge that that would give an accurate reading (+/- 1 psi) than the tiny gauges on existing equipment.

With a sixty mile round trip to get a 3450 psi tank fill, I don’t want to lose two to three hundred psi every time I fill, plus waste those early pellets flying all over the place. A regulated gun will give fifty to 70 shots per fill, depending on FPS/FPE desired. I’m lucky to get thirty full power shots per fill, so I fill a lot in an afternoon’s shooting, and I often have to bleed a hundred, usually more, lbs of psi off. My scuba valve sometimes decides to blast air in so fast my rifle cylinder get hot. Ok….sometimes I just crack it a bit too much…it just happens (too often).

I want to simply open that scuba valve, and then precisely control how fast and how much air I place in my rifle cylinder.

So, stay tuned pneumatonauts…and perhaps, unlike my last massage visit, I’ll come up with a happy ending, instead of empty promises, for my hard earned dollars.

Pictures and details will be posted after this “device” arrives. Cost is unknown at this time. But if he can bring it in at $30 to $50, it will eventually pay for itself. And….I might even begin to hit those damn geese in the head instead of the butt.

Regards,

Kindly ‘Ol Uncle H 😯 😯 T

PS: Yeah yeah…I know, some of you already do this with your personally designed gear, but I’m not you, nor are a lot of others. We need something that plugs in and works every time! And until my R3 arrives, I’ve got to tough it out with my AA S510!

Mods/Machinists

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Thanks. I meant the air fittings.

Looks good. Can you send me a link to them. I need to make a larger setup for my reg so I can use my 120 psi compressor or a scuba to run my booster pump. Thanks

quote :

Your fittings look like 1/4″ air fittings. Your not using regular air fittings on your fill hose are you?

They are 1/4″ but everything is rated for 5000 or more. Setup looks looks pretty good,aye ?

They do look like the 150 psi ones. Wouldnt use those if I were u . Unless I’m wrong.

Your fittings look like 1/4″ air fittings. Your not using regular air fittings on your fill hose are you?

quote H 😯 😯 T:

Gimme a break! This is Arkansas!!!
H 😯 😯 T

well….
that sure explains A LOT!!

Today I spent $5.00 and put together a Needle Valve flow control system.

Just my damn luck to invent something that was already invented! How was I supposed to know that people needed to control the volume flow of gasses, liquids and steam, even before I was born????

Gimme a break! This is Arkansas!!!

H 😯 😯 T

Yep, I made it just like his drawing,male on one side, female on the other.

All kidding aside, these really work well in controlling the fill flow. You can add a lb. at a time if you want.

Hoot,
It looks like the right side has female threads in it to screw in whatever adapter/device required…

Where does the air come out????

Damn….I post an idea late at night and by morning someone already has it prototyped and produced…and they STILL got it wrong!

Air goes in this device, is controlled, but has nowhere to exit.

C’mon Andy…show me something that works as good as my genius dictates!

Hoot

Hmmmmm….perhaps Jim was correct to avoid this project……..hmmmmm…

Will it look something like this when it’s done?

In Pa. we call them needle valves.

Would you pay for a device that permits you to carefully control your fill rate?

It would attach between your yoke and fill hose. Simple install, never have to take it off, set and adjust it at whatever fill rate you desire with a hex wrench. Tank valve ceases to be a factor in fill rate.

Here’s a picture:

The body (B) is a simple aluminum rectangle with a through and through threaded hole, intersected with another threaded hole filled with a hex head screw (A).

The idea is to buy a hollow copper, male to male, threaded connector that mates the slow fill body to your existing yoke, where the fill hose normally screws in (C).

The fill hose will screw into the opposite end of the threaded through hole. The hex screw in the middle slows/stops air flow by simply screwing down into the pathway of the air flowing through the device.

It’s not fancy, it’s functional. Takes up almost no space. It doesn’t cost $100 to $300 bucks either. It allows you to manually control, to a fairly precise level, how fast, and how much, air is transferred from the fill tank to your rifle/pistol cylinder.

Pistol’s small tubes would especially benefit from this flow speed control.

It requires cutting, milling and threading, so not just anyone can put this together. The hex screw and hollow copper M/M connector can be purchased commercially, although my estimated cost might be a bit low.

If Jim decides to invest his time and money in this, and I realize he is busy, would any of you buy one? I don’t know the cost, but it would boil down to skilled labor, time, and two commercial parts per unit, plus a hex wrench.

It has one moving part, and never has to be removed.

Thoughts? Practical or no???

H 😯 😯 T

All good points my boys….all good points, considering the source!

However, there’s got to be a less expensive way to do this. A $100
will empty half the trailer parks in Arkansas for the entire night, AND buy
a gallon of corn extract and/or a high grade of local mountain herbal
mood enhancers!

Stay tuned…..developments are taking place even as I try to type.

Regards,

Kindly ‘Ol Uncle H 😯 😯 T

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