First Look…Marauder Pistol Strip Down Guide

This is a simple strip down guide meant to help you get a picture of what it takes to break down your CROSMAN MARAUDER PISTOL or “CMP” as I like to call it.

First of all I want you to understand the necessity for you to be absolutely confident that you want to strip down your gun because…. STRIPPING DOWN YOUR GUN WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY!!!!!!

Also, stripping down your gun must be done carefully and with caution because your gun is a high pressure tool, it can cause serious injury or DEATH. Compressed air is highly dangerous and if not carefully can also explode!! High pressure creates heat that can easily catch fire if you use lubricants that contain petroleum.

HIGH PRESSURE+FLAMMABLE LUBRICANT= EXPLOSION!!!

That being said lets begin:

1. First of I have a bipod and scope on my gun. Before stripping your make sure all exterior accessories are removed (scope, bipod, sling, etc). After this is complete….

Dry fire your gun until COMPLETELY empty. You should only hear the hammer hitting the valve. The picture shows my gun with accessories removed and charged to approximately 3,000 psi or 200 bar.

2. Next, remove the fore stock by using an allen wrench size 3/32 is what I used. There are two screws, one in the front and one in the back next to the pressure guage. Also remove the adapter that holds the fore stock in place, also known as barrel band. There two set screws that hold it aligned to the forestock and shroud. I used a metric allen wrench for this size 2mm. This is a good time to remove the shoulder stock or hand grips (depending on how you have your CMP set up). The shoulder stock is the same as the 22xx guns and removal is the same.

3. Remove the shroud. This is done by unscrewing the shroud cap in the front followed by the o-ring that seals the shroud cap and vent bushing (you will see the vent bushing later). Remove the shroud by just unscrewing it from the breach end. Just grab it from any part of the shroud and turn counter clockwise till the shroud can be slid off of the barrel. You will see the vent bushing attached to the end of the barrel…this is the choked end of the gun. If you want to take extra measure, use some type of protector (electrical tape with some foam) to cover the end of the gun to help protect the choked and crowned barrel. The white piece of melamine (magic eraser) you see is what I put in the shroud to help with sound regulation. Also you will notice that I drilled four- 2.5 mm holes in the end of the shroud to also help with sound regulation.

4. Gun should be completely empty! Remove the breech. The breech is held to the pressure tube by four allen screws. You can locate these at the middle of the breech and at the back of the breech. Be careful about the transfer port under the gun it may fall out so remove the allen screws and carefully lift the breech off of the pressure tube. If you flip over the breech to look at the underside you will find the transfer port (if it didn’t fall out already) and the hole it sits in. the transfer port is blue in color. I modified the transfer port for better airflow shown here with the 2mm drill bit (all I did was enlarged the transfer port hole by drilling it out to 2mm). The transfer port also has two rubber seals that look like o-rings. One goes on top and one goes on the bottom of the transfer port (or tp).

5. Next lets remove the cocking bolt. As you can see under the breech there is two silver (chrome color) screws that hold cocking bolt (we’ll call it the CB for now) in place. These screws actually hold an “L” shape metal piece over the CB. It restricts the CB from turning more than it should during the cocking process. All you do is remove the small screws and out comes the “L” shaped bracket and the rest is simply accomplished by removing another allen screw (attached directly to the CB) with the 3/32 allen tool. After this is removed you can simply pull out the CB. If I were you I would put back the screw that came off of this piece, so you don’t lose it.

6. Next remove the barrel and shroud end cap. This is done by removing the allen screws located along the length of the breech. There are two that remove the barrel. Location for the barrel screws are in front of the clip loading area as shown in the pics. The shroud end cap is one screw located in the top center of the cap, you will see it in the pics. Make sure to remember how it is put back on, as there are o-rings and such that come out as well. The shroud end cap is slid off of the barrel. At the end of the barrel where the pellet exits you will see the vent bushing that helps the gun with sound. It is press fitted to the barrel and easily comes off. I used an allen wrench to “twist and pull” it off. The end of the barrel where the pellet enters you will notice and o-ring on the inside. I removed this because I wanted to polish the end of the barrel so it won’t damage the pellets as they go in. I found that mine was sufficiently polished and smooth. Matbe it was unnecessary to polish this end, but I did any way for giggles. It is upto you if you want to do this. But I don’t think it is necessary. Pics of this polishing act was shown later, but I will not explain this process as many other can help with this. Also note that if you remove the o-ring from the end of the barrel, then be prepared to spend some time trying to put it back….it was difficult. Next few pictures show you my dirty workshop (we just moved here to this new location and haven’t arranged anything yet!) and some pics of me working on polishing the barrel, actually just one or two pics. Also you will notice that I enlarged the port on the barrel where the transfer port sits, I also open this to 3mm or 3.5mm. Please I have not tested the gun over the chrony yet, so I would advise not to do this till credible info is released from either me or someone else about the performance gains if any from this mod. I did this for giggles.

7. Next remove the hammer spring and hammer. To do this you must remove the allen bolt behind the grip frame. This procedure is exactly like the 22xx guns. So if you need help message me or look it up on the new crosman forum. You will notice the different shaped hammer. You can mod these I’m sure. And I have tried with different hammers and springs, but I did not have a chrony so results will vary accordingly. Try at your own risk and results. Images that follow show you the original hammers and spring as well as the ones I tried. In fact currently when I put the gun back together I used the original hammer and replaced the original spring with a heavier one. Again no chrony, so I don’t know if it helped me get more fps or it slowed me down….?????? Next I removed the grip frame and all the trigger parts. They are different from the 22xx co2 guns. These are two stage triggers. I would not recommend taking these off of the grip frame, but if you study the pictures carefully you can figure out how to remove them and put it back as well. Do this at your own risk. Also the safety system is the same as the 22xx guns. Watch out for the little round ball bearing and spring that make up the safety system…they are easy to lose. Next pics you will see are just random pics of the gun and its parts- not many pics but some.

Putting the gun back together is the same procedure as above…EXCEPT IN REVERSE!!!

Thanks for reading I hope this guide helps some of you. I tried to make it as easy as possible, but typing this up is time consuming! Also I am an amateur airgunsmith and most of this stuff is done by trial and error. Please just use this as a guide rather than a manual. It is to help you not to show you exact ways of dismantling your gun.

Also DO ALL OF THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK, IT IS DANGEROUS. I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL. I JUST SHOWED YOU WHAT I DID. I AM SURE THERE ARE MANY WAYS AND BETTER WAYS TO STRIP YOUR CMP, USE YOUR BEST JDGEMENT AND DON’T DO THIS STRIP DOWN IF YOU ARE NOT FAMILIAR WITH AIRGUNS OR GUNS OR 22XX GUNS.