Q:

First mod done.

And, suprisingly, it was a success. I have o-ring modded my brass collar (tophat & stem seat). I made a cutting tool from an allen-key (about an hour of winging it on a grind-wheel in the lathe’s chuck), then went at the brass. Any one of you lot would have cringed so hard your faces would have imploded. Gonzo machining. 😆

Yes, ok, it took me approx two hours, you lot would have done it in 20 minutes (probably less). I had to keep taking the bit off, checking it, trying to stuff an o-ring in it, back and forth. And what the hell is the deal with the o-ring?! MURDERS getting one in there. I destroyed five before I got the sixth in relatively un-scathed. I suppose there’s a trick to it?

Now I have to re-fill the bottle. 😮

Mods/Machinists

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quote Yellow Ninja:

he probably reads silly things like the manual

When did you learn to read Baz 😯 ❓

Unfortunatly no matter how many times you say it.. he aint gonna get it, lol

Yeah,

Yeah,

Yeah,

Yeah,

Yeah, when he said hee had sharpened up an allen key I thought he meant he had sharpened up the cranked end of it to make a hooked cutting tool, I didn’t realise he’d sharpened it to a chisel point and jabbed it into the brass. As you said Ninja, most laiths work best in a forward direction, as some laiths have screw on chuck back plates which would mean using them in reverse might cause the back plate and chuck to unscrew.

Langa….

The tools work better if the piece is moving down onto the tool. In most situations that means if the chuck is North, then the tool touch’s the workpiece on the west. Your picture has it on the East – not the most efficient way – Unless off course your have the Lathe turning in the opposite direction.. with the “right” direction being determined simply by the direction that a normal right hand thread screw would be cut, in that case it would be recommended that you change the lathe to the other direction and move the tool to the other side when you cut – unless you like making bicycle pedals and other left hand threaded items.

Off course, Baz is only one of the great machinists that we have here… he probably reads silly things like the manual and likes to do things “properly”… so feel free to ignore his advice and do it your way.

I used to have a problem with my laith when I first got it, everytime I pressed the lever to disengage the drive to the sadle, the sadle kept crashing into the tail stop, I got Blodnob to have a look at it and he suggested I stop using the laith stood on its end, and put it back on its four feet. I told him I stood it up to make make more room in the garage, but he just walked off shaking his head and mumbling something about being as thick as pig-shit.

quote baz:

It might just be a weird camera angle but I tend to work from the side of the laith which has all the knobs on, so if I was you I would check your laith is the right way round, and you haven’t pushed all the knobs and levers up against the wall.

😆 Damn, you’re right, I just ran out to check and all the knobs and dials are up against the wall. No wonder my back aches. I was using a long stick towards the end, which played havoc with the fine tolerance I was trying to achieve.

It might just be a weird camera angle but I tend to work from the side of the laith which has all the knobs on, so if I was you I would check your laith is the right way round, and you haven’t pushed all the knobs and levers up against the wall.

quote baz:

i may be wrong but it looks like you have stuck your tool in the wrong side of the hole, good look with the regulator when you start making it.

Eh? What difference does it make which side I did it from? The tool cut the brass just fine and the piece works. 😕

i may be wrong but it looks like you have stuck your tool in the wrong side of the hole, good look with the regulator when you start making it.

Here’s the picture of my very modest affair:

I think it’s my brain still recovering from the party I went to last saturday. 😳

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