FX/AXSOR/Logun Pump Question
Where could I purchase this pump other than Pyramyd air? I can’t find a Hill pump for the life of me and I have decided to settle for a new FX/Logun/Axsor pump….
EDIT: I saw the ” Fx Super Stroke Pump ” at Airguns Of Arizona, but it is like $30 more than PA….
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Hi Guys! i know this is an old thread but i decided to try and rebuild my pump while my Hill is on order. I noticed that the brass colored nut requires a special wrench to fit between the shaft and the base, a normal wrench will not fit cause of the extremely small space it needs to fit in, can anyone tell me what size wrench and what types of places carries it? I just got my .25 condor and am using my spare tank to shoot with after that then i will have to wait till my new pump comes in, in the meantime having a temporary pump will help keep me smiling 😀 😀
My AF pump died early. There is a thread here somewhere.
AF put me in touch with the “manufacturer” (I don’t buy it but I did confirm that the pump would have gotten shipped to him for repair).
I haven’t done this yet 😳 even though I started a bitch session about it but…
These are the instructions he sent me for “my” problem. The failure may be different but he says this is a complete take down. Also – he mentions ‘not voiding the warrenty’. In another email he clearly stated that it would not void the warrenty only becuase he is aware of the issue and is ‘allowing’ me to attempt the repair.
I will go through this process and take pictures but I’ve been distracted with other things and I recently aquired a tank and just haven’t thought much about the pump.
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From: Duane Sorensen <dsorensen@sunopticsusa.com>
Dear Sir
Sorry for the confusion. The O ring you need is a -014 size which is a nominal 1/2 inch ID and a 5/8 OD wall thickness is .070
You should be able to get at any hardware store.
Directions to repair. We will also clean and lube while we have apart.
1. With the pump fully assemble with base and handle
2. place on work table
3. Remove the cylinder from the base by unscrewing the bottom brass nut connecting the tube to the base. There is a O ring seal at this place but not your problem.
4. When removed you will note the large brass piece. Remove the smaller end cap with small hole in it. You will find a spring and a check valve with a small O ring on the end of it. Clean this part and lube. a light motor oil would work great. do not over lube.
5. Put this check valve back together. this is not the problem but we wanted to be sure it is clean as we have it apart.
6.The next step is to loosen the brass nut on the black tube, do this but do not remove yet.
7. The next step is to remove the upper part on the black tube which you can do by simply turning the handle. You should be able to hold the tube with your hand. DO NOT PUT THE TUBE IN A VICE OR HOLD WITH PLIERS AS IT MAY DAMAGE THE TUBE.
8. You will note that when you remove the top part there will be a small rod attached to the handle. Remove the small pin in this part and remove the handle. The pin is not tight.
9. You may note a large O ring sitting on top to the assembly. This is just used as a cusion. Just remember to put it back during assembly
10 remove the brass nut on the bottom of the black tube and remove the black tube by sliding it upwards.
11. you will note another brass part on the upper end of the remaing assembly with an O ring on it. Clean them and lube before putting back together.
12 With a wrench on the bottom and top brass parts unscrew them. The bottom bass part then should be removed from the silver tube.
13 Look at the bottom brass part and you will find the O ring that is defective. Clean and replace.
14 Now to clean the rest of the pump.
15 Remove the small rod by pushing it out the bottom. You will find on the end of this rod a small O ring and nylon split washer. Clean them and lube.
16 Re-assemble in reverse order and your pump will work perfectly.
You will not void your warranty by doing this.
If you have problems contact me and if all else fails return to me and I will do a complete rebuild just as I described. I am just trying to same you time and shipping by going this route. Also you will now be able to re-build in the future should you have any problems
Best regards
Duane
Sun Optics
Thanks Maw, but the weight of evidence has proven that a SCUBA tank is the best for me.
Critter there’s a hill pump up on yellow for $250.00
I agree with WOK. As a matter of fact, I went out and filled up my paintball tanks, my Airforce butt tank, and my scuba tank. Not only that, I also bought a new 3000 psi scuba tank to top off when I use the other one to fill. This will help me in the long run and plus it will last me longer this time. I’ve gotten many shots already with my gun power setting set to 4 and it still smokes these tree rats like nothing I’ve seen!
Thanks man, but which scuba adapter do you recommend?
BTW: I have a broken AF pump that I’m thinkin’ bout repairing, and according to old blowhard Tom Gaylord he says taking apart pumps is not fun and the shaft grease is like unobtanium…Is this right or is he, as usual, full of SH*T
Sounds like scuba is a good way to go for.
Buy it!
I live within 2 miles of a Scuba store that my neighbor fills his Talon’s Scuba tank from all the time. The only reason they are in business is because of all of the paintballers around, so they are airgun friendly. Also, I live within fifteen miles of Lighthouse Dive, Washington’s largest used seller of SCUBA tanks. The tanks come in and are Hydro’d and then resold, and the prices are awsome!
Keep the suggestions coming!
EDIT: WTF is the deal with pilkguns….$205???? That has to be a typo!
Don’t just look up a shop near you on line or in the phone book…go there and talk to the people. Tell them what you intend doing and ask if they’ll fill a scuba tank….and ask if they have a used one at a reasonable cost. Worst case: Might find they want no part of airgunners. Best case: might find they have a good deal on a tank and will fill it for you free for a year because you bought it from them.
Will find that SCUBA hobbiest are like airgunners…always wanting to up-grade to the new stuff. Light weight tanks are “in”, so might find some used heavy-weight metal tanks. If they are in hydro, and the shope wtands behind what they sell, have no issue with buying a good inspected used tank.
Critter check out pilkguns they have the hill pump for 205.00 without the dry pac. http://www.pilkguns.com 😆 😆 😆 check under master price list.
If you have a place close by and can easily and cheaply get a scuba filled and go with the scuba tank. I used one for years and still use one.
I start at 2850psi and use it until it gets around 2300psi. I got plenty of fills and a short trip to the scuba shop and $5 got the scuba filled again.
If I was going to buy another scuba tank, I would seriously consider this deal…
http://www.diversdirect.com/scuba-diving/blue-steel-fx80-steel-cylinder-3442-psi/
I have a 100 c.f. hi press. steel tank now that gets filled to 3500 psi+ depending on the person at the scuba shop that day. Used it cost me ~$150.
They’re heavy though!
FYI, the hi pressure tanks have DIN valves, not the K-valves typically found on the “normal”/Lo press tanks.
Another option would be a 3300 psi aluminum tanks w/ a k-valve…
http://www.diversdirect.com/scuba-diving/catalina-80-cu-ft-compact-aluminum-tank/
What do you think about an 80cf Aluminum Scuba Tank? I really need to keep costs reasonably low, and I think this would be a good alternative.
How many 2500PSI fill could I get from one? And what scuba yoke would work best for pressure accuracy?
Buy it right, buy it once.
Many airgunners have had to buy more then one pump until they bought the Hill.
Save yourself some money and just get the Hill Pump to begin with.
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wile reading this email sent to bean I game across the part were thr dude states that motor oil is cool to use on the rings as lube, my question is this – Is That Safe??? I would think that not only will it eat the o rings but you run the chance of detonation, some one let me know if I’m on the right track with my theory.