Hammer Slide Problems
I bought a 24″ barrel for my Talon SS but after I put the long barrel in the shroud the bolt would not go forward to cock the rifle. I took it apart and discovered that my hammer slide is made completely of delrin and the inside diameter is too small for the longer barrel.
When I purchased the TSS used, I received an extra hammer slide that is made of steel with delrin caps on each end. While this slide has a larger bore diameter for the longer barrel, it doesn’t have the 45 degree chamfer on one end like the original one does. When I put the other slide in everything fits but I can’t get it to cock. I can push the bolt forward but when I go to slide it back into place against the top hat I can feel the hammer slide trying to catch but for some reason it won’t. I think it is because of not having a chamfer. But I searched the sight and all the pictures of hammer slides, at least those I found, look just like the one I have with the larger bore that is made of delrin and steel.
My TSS is one of the first models and has plastic bushings on the barrel, and the end cap on the shroud screws into a threaded bushing that is held in place by a set screw. I would really like to get the long barrel working because but am at a loss. Can anyone here help me with this and tell me what I need to do?
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Viewing 11 replies - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)
Whistler,
Although some may not agree, over tightening the triggergard front screw can also cause failure of hammer latch. When I converted to an unobtainium triggergard/AR15 grip adapter (thus has a rear mount screw also), I had to shorten the front screw in order to obtain hammer latch.
I got it working now. My brother made me a new hammer today. I was worried that it would be too light but I am getting 1150 fps w/ a 24″ barrel and a power setting of 10. I think that is in the ballpark for what it should put out. There isn’t much impact area with a .640 bore and the 45 deg taper but the book says that UHMW plastic is very resistant to impact so we will see.
Thanks for the help!
I’m not positive about the older talons but, from what I have seen in my researches about this gun the hammer was tapered at a 45 and the breech was flat. My new talon has the hammer like shown above and the breech has a 45 cut into it at the bottom to let the sear catch the hammer.
I would either drill out your solid hammer to fit over the new barrel or just file a small 45 in the bottom of your breech.
Condor hammer is $10 and change. I have some but I bought them for the delrin end caps. They didn’t have any of the ends so I had to buy the hole hammer.
The easiest way to solve this problem is for someone to sell me a hammer they aren’t using. I emailed Airforce yesterday requesting the price on a new hammer but they haven’t replied. Surely someone out there put a aftermarket hammer in their rifle and has the old one gathering dust.
Damn that hammer looks like it was from a dig at Giza… 😆
Try pulling the trigger,push the hammer forward,release the trigger and see if the hammer catches. It looks like the lip on the hammer could be catching on the back of the sear. A farmer fix would be to mould a ramp on the back side of the lip with JB weld. Don’t know how long it would last, but it’s pretty though stuff.
Here is the hammer that won’t let the rifle cock.
I think it is because the plastic pieces don’t have any taper.
The threaded bushing slides out when you loosen the set screw under the barrel. The guy I got it from said it was one of the first ones, a B model he called it. Its serial number is under 30. The metal and plastic hammer I have doesn’t look like yours. Mine has very thin plastic end pieces and is an inch or so shorter than the solid plastic one.
I did get an air stripper with it but it is held in place by the set screw.
I’ll take it back apart and take some pictures that I can post tomorrow.
Whistler,
Here is a picture of my 2 yr old Condor Hammer:
There is not much of a chamfer on it and it’s looking chewed up where cocking it pushes it forward over the hammer seer. I have a TT Tony’s brass hammer to replace it when I switch back to 24″ x .22.
I wonder if someone had a shroud extension on that threaded SS frame you’ve got?
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I can believe it. I know for a fact that over tightening the front frame screw on a Crosman 2240 will lock up the 12oz CO2 cylinder.