Q:

Heavy Duty Pellet trap instructions

After I bought this Condor I started practising with it, all I had was a Beeman pellet trap rated at 800fps. After 40 or 50 shots the Beeman trap was wasted. I began researching for a heavy duty traget trap on the Internet. I could not find what I was after but did see Walkonking’s design here on the forum and liked it. I stayed up late last night looking at his design and laid out my plans for todays project. I have about $70 in this project and it’s well worth it. Never again will I need to worry about stopping a pellet. Hats off to Walkonking for the inspiriation. Here is the steps if anyone else wants to make one.

You need to buy ( got all of this at Lowes ) –

1. One Square D 100 amp breaker box. Model HoM6-12L100 – Cost- $21.00

2. 15 One pound bars of Duct Seal by IDEAL. Model # 31-601.

3. One 4×4 sheet of 3/4″ plywood.

4. Four #10 x 1″ sheet metal screws.

5. One small sheet of hardboard ( fiberboard). It is slick on one side and knurled on the other, brown in color.

Step one – The stuff…..remove two inner slotted screws on the box and toss out the bus bar. Now the box is hollow.

Step two – I cut out the cover of the breaker box so I could use it as a frame later, you can see the scribe around the perimeter.

Step three – Cover is cut out and ready for the 3/4″ plywood to cut for the backstop. I filed down the burrs left behind from the sabersaw.

Step four – The plywood has been cut and put in place. Two 1″ screws were ran in thru the back to hold it on place. There are plenty of holes in the rear of the box to add the screws without drilling.

Step five – I added 15 bars of the Duct Seal, molding each bar into the next. The total layer is @ three inches thick. Use rubber gloves, the stuff is sticky.

Step six – Put the cutout metal cover in place. Cut out the hardboard and place it over the opening ( on top of the metal cover) Line up the board over the metal cover and mark where the two holes are in the metal cover onto the board (top and btm). Drill two holes where the board cover is to go. Using the breaker box large slotted screws, mount the board (on top) and metal cover ( under it ) to the box.

Step seven – Turn the box around and look for two holes in the upper section, near the sides. I doubled up some Stainless steel wire and used it here as a “picture hanger”. Secure with the other two #10 screws. the box is now heavy, but this will hold it fine. NOTE- you can also see the two screws used to secure the 3/4″ plywood now.

Step eight – I used 3m spray adhesive to attach a Beeman target to the front board. I hung the unit on a fence post. At 35yrds I fired 4 shots. I did not hear any metallic sound this time as I did with the old Beeman trap. Here in the picture you will see the target peeled off the board and 4 holes into the trap.

Here is the result. I know the hardboard slowed the pellets down some. The depth of the pellets is 1-1/4″ into the seal. I was shooting pointed predators at 1100 fps. You can see the pellet skirts plainly in the material.

The result – I really like this box. I thank Walkonking and the forum for the inspiration. Hopefully this will help others interested in building a safe trap to contain these powerful rifles. After seeing what it can do to a Beeman trap ( yes I know the trap was rated for 800fps ) I wanted something extra heavy duty. Now I got it.

The Beeman trap – wasted ! The spot welds were broken. The unit was breeched.

Safe shooting…

Later

General Chat

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Viewing 11 replies - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)

Thats true. I wonder how bad it would be if you put some of the clay or a product like Dynamat on the backside of the plate to deaden the sound. It works great in vehicles.

quote Shadoh:

Why doesnt anyone use an angled back stop to deflect the pellet instead of absorbing it? Because it would take up more space? I was just wondering why I never see any home builds like that.

In a word…………NOISY 😛 😛 😀

The clay type traps absorb a lot of sound as well as pellets.

The angled “deflection” type do work well though.

Why doesnt anyone use an angled back stop to deflect the pellet instead of absorbing it? Because it would take up more space? I was just wondering why I never see any home builds like that.

Don’t forget this one to.

1. Find box About 12″Hx8″Wx3″D

2. Wrap box neatly with Duct tape. (leave top untaped for now)

3.Fill box with dirt or soil or sand (sifted so no rocks) pack well (tape up top of box).

4.Shoot box full of holes.

5. Repeat steps 2. & 4.

Although once I get a few things I ordered it will not work as well.

Something like this is easy if you have access to a metal brake. Best part about it, was it didn’t cost me squat since it was made from scrapes and stuff I already had laying around. I also made the chrony lights for about $5.

I cut some 2x4s to fit in the back then packed the rest with rolled up pallet wrap. Don’t shoot more than about 40 ft lbs through it and you’re alright. Fine enough for anything I should be shooting in the house. 😈


The next one I build will be made of wood. Behind the back of the target it will contain a 8 1/2×11 target holder slot with a lid.

I take mine with me a lot. I keep the targets in the truck or the wind takes them away. On my next trap I am going to incorporate a slot in the back that holds at least 50 targets with tabs so i can separate the different ones.

Until then I may try to retrofit mine and stick or glue a real estate flyer holder box on the back to hold my printed targets.

Roger

If you put a small light inside the box you could shoot at night. The holes in the paper would stand out. Maybe put a piece of black paper behind the paper target to keep light from showing through the paper. You could even start out with a small hole in the center to get started.

sweet, now just run some sheilded 18-4 to one of those new direct burial led landscaping lights ” super Brite”.. Hang it in the box make sure no ones up crack a beer and go…

Looks great. Mine sits outside all year long and is always good to go. 😀

NO FAIR, Tachdriver stole my idea that I stole from WalkonKing. I did the same thing Tachdriver but I used 18 bars of ductsealer. However, I did not make a front cover. I just use the ductsealer to hold the target paper.

ALSO, VERY NICE LOOKING JOB

Fatman

I had a beeman trap that ended up just like yours so I bought a bullet box.I pack it with leftover plastic wrap from work to cut down on the noise because without it,its loud.

Viewing 11 replies - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)

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