Help with Condor
Due to unexplainable POI shifts , and occasional poor grouping I decided to remove the barrel and hammer assembly. Thanks to Tony’s post in the Quick Reference, it was easy to do. I discovered that the barrel bushings on the barrel were very loose! The set screws were not even snugged against the barrel. I think I read in another ‘sticky’ where Tony had mentioned that this has been a problem and the cause of inaccuracy. So I tightened them.
My question. After I wipe down everything with denatured alcohol, what is the preferred lube to use??? I noticed the slender section of the barrel had some type of odorless grease on it from the factory. I haven’t wiped it off yet. But I will when I learn what to use to re-lube before re-assembly. Thanks. Kevin
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Viewing 8 replies - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)
Great! Glad I could pass on the knowledge .
Good shooting mate
On the grub/set screws ,you want to snug the bottom ones first then do the short side ones according to the guys that know .
This first pushes the barrel up in a vertical plain ,then you just nip up the side screws to take hold of the bushings ,not push anything sideways .remember the pellets path of flight , it falls vertically down .
Hope this makes sense .
Hey I appreciate the heads up on the grub screws! I went back and did them like you said. I had tightened them up in no particular order. Something was out of line because my breech slide was not in perfect line with the top hat. I loosened the four grub screws holding the barrel and retightened starting with bottom , then side. Now perfect alignment.
keV,
On the grub/set screws ,you want to snug the bottom ones first then do the short side ones according to the guys that know .
This first pushes the barrel up in a vertical plain ,then you just nip up the side screws to take hold of the bushings ,not push anything sideways .remember the pellets path of flight , it falls vertically down .
Hope this makes sense .
Eddie, I just got back in from shooting. All I tested were HN Barracudas (Kodiacs) and after a few break in shots, it’s grouping dime sixed groups at 35 yards.
I’m not sure tightening those grub scres made as much difference as giving the barrel a good ole timey scrubbing with JB Paste . Then washing it out with denatured alcohol. There were lead slivers coming out on the first patch that I ran thru the bore before I scrubbed it out. Plus alot of what looked like bore preservative (reddish brown in color). Anyway, I got the bore spotless.
While I was at it, I polished the hammer weight/spacer. It had saw marks in the flats and I polished those out and burnished the least little bit of moly into the side that the spring rest against.
I also removed the breech slide and blew the dirt and leaves out . I don’t need to lay my gun down in the leaves anymore!
I also turned the power wheel down to between one and two. But after a few shots to foul the barrel, it was shooting good starting from a 2700 fill.
I probably need to run my top hat in for efficiency’s sake. But I need to do some research on this site before that.
But to answer your question, Eddie, it shot accurately moments ago. But really, the two screws (for each bushing) that screw through the frame go all the way through the bushing and snug against the barrel. So I don’t know HOW it could help much. But I’m totally new these type airguns and there is sttill much mystery.
So Kevin did the gun start shooting good again after you tightened the set screws?
The sliding bolt has two orings in it and needs to move freely…
Good luck, Tony
Thank you.
Use a light coat of oil or spray to protect the blueing. Keep the hammer dry and use silicone gel on the narrow part of the barrel.
The sliding bolt has two orings in it and needs to move freely…
Good luck, Tony
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What Rocat siad on tighting the barrel up bottom two then the side, I don’t get real carried away with real tight I use the short end of the allen wrench in my hand and tighten until I get flex done!