How do i get the valve out of the tank?
I want to switch valves between my two tanks, one doesn’t have a hole in the end to mount my new WOKASS, other does, so i want to swith them, but, i let the air out of both, and tried to unscrew each. No luck, don’t want to mess em up, and i checked the QR section and saw nothin on it.
Someone want to throw me a bone here? ❓
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Thanks WoK and Others.
I’ll turn down a piece of pipe or tubing and put a 5/16 hole in it and use the end of an old drill bit, along with a pipe wrench and some cussing. I’ll clamp it in the bottom of the vise (although I probably don’t have the type of magazines you guys have laying around, heh).
Glad I gave up before I fucked it up.
I found an odd bolt laying around the shop that was the correct fine thread, screwed it into the hole, clamped it in the vice, and started wacking the bolt with a piece of 1 inch solid steel stock that was laying around handy. Started easy, became apparent some force was needed quickly. I was surprised what it took to finally get it to move. Both of them came right out after applying enough force. Got em switched and back to shootin in a half hour. I would be still staring at it in disbelief it was so tight if not for the advice. Thanks WOK. Love this forum.
Should I try gently heating it? Or…?
I ended up taking only the brass piece out and played around with a new homemade valve. I learned that a larger valve takes more hammer weight to open. Still kind of fun to play with though. The thread on the brass piece is 1/2-13.
Anyway, back to the valve. It can’t be this hard. Or can it?
With the tough ones I make a metal collar that can slip over the valve body and drill a hole to match the hole in the valve side. I insert a bolt and grab hold of the collar with a good old fashion plumbers monkey wrench and IT WILL COME OFF! You have so much leverage the valve has no choice. Wrapping in magazines and clamping at the bottom of a vise really helps out.
I tried to get my valve out a couple weeks ago and finally gave up before I wrecked it. Are some of them tight? Mine’s on an SS.
Should I try gently heating it? Or…?
I ended up taking only the brass piece out and played around with a new homemade valve. I learned that a larger valve takes more hammer weight to open. Still kind of fun to play with though. The thread on the brass piece is 1/2-13.
Anyway, back to the valve. It can’t be this hard. Or can it?
Whoa Nelly! Did you see that!?!??
Someone just asked how to get their valve out of the bottle, got a response, and then actually GOT THE DAMN THING OFF in 5 hours!!
That has got to be some kind of record 😯
Worked like a charm! 😀 I’ll get some pics up, damn nice piece of work, no more kink in my neck. Thanks WOK.
Thanks WOK, i’m off to the shop to give it a try. Thanks.
There is a plastic disc with a T nut that is sandwiched in between the bottom of the tank and the tank cover.
I have no clue why it is not there ❓
So the burts disk comes out? Or just the hex grub screw? Didn’t think about puttin a bolt in there. Thanks WOK. I’ll post a pic of your new addition to my setup when i get em switched. Any idea why no threaded hole? It has an FX cheek/butt stock, could be an FX bottle with a AF valve in it?
****Tank must be empty of all HPA before proceding*****
The easiest way is to wrap the tank in some magazines and place it at the very bottom of the vice jaw then tighten. Unscrew and remove the burst disc. Screw in a bolt of same threads and while in the vise give the bolt a whack with a hammer to rotate the valve off the tank.
If you do not have a vise get a large person to stand on the tank and then give the bolt a good whack to get the valve off.
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R man,
You got the idea now 😉