Q:

How far is the top hat moving back?

I have recently added an oring behing the top hat. I tested the condor and with gap at .087 and on pw 6 it shot at 765 fps. I then moved the power up to pw 10 and it shot at 845 fps. I then adjusted the top hat to .090 on pw 6 and it shot at 845 fps…pw 10 was 966….pw 11 was 1014 fps (at the speed I want but trigger pull is too heavy). So i’m assuming that the more I turn the power wheel up, the more I squish the oring down. I want to shoot at 1000 fps at a low power wheel setting and wondering if turning my top hat out somemore would render the oring useless? How far out is too far out? As a experiment, I set the tophat at .110 with wheel set at pw 6 and got my desired 1000 fps but the fps where eratic so I’m figuring the tophat and oring combo is working not as well at that distance. I’m mainly just trying to lower the trigger pull, acheive 1000 fps, and have a consistant shoot string.

Airforce Rifles/Pistols

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Am I understanding that you have an o-ring between the base of the top hat and the valve body ? AND your measurement are between the top hat base and o-ring ? THEN you must be getting some overtravel if the top hat strikes the o-ring, BUT also some reactive bounce to start closing faster.
Interesting concept. The o-ring would be more reactive then the valve spring possibly.

Harry , i have had less air use with the o ring in at all setting’s, even maxing out 32 grain eunjin’s, it uses Less air,

I don’t understand. The o-ring “experiment” is to lower the velocities but there are better ways. I tried the o-ring behind the tophat a couple of years ago and the shots over the chrony where not as consistent at any PW or pressure fill setting for me. They were not bad but not what I was looking for. You can achive 1,000fps with most Condors if you only fill to 2200, or 2300psi at the most, and PW 0-2 with the newer/post-2008 hi-flo valve, but you will not have that nice bell curve. The velocity will start dropping after a handful of shots in the 1,000 range. And that’s what I wanted because my .22 Condor shoots Kodiaks best in the 900’s too, as powderburner mentioned.

No, i have no added hammer weight. I thought about using a 95 gram hammer but am concered about the added recoil and inaccuracy. Even though that would than allow me too use a lower pw setting

without added hammer weight or higher power wheel setting you will get lower fps with higher tank pressure.

do you have added hammer weight Maw.

I get more fps with more pressure .

Did you run a string, you might be able to turn down the power wheel some and get the same velocity with less tank psi.

Tank at 2400 psi. 21.14 grain kodiak at power 10 was 1000 fps. Tp .093

What was the tank psi,

remember that for a given top hat setting if your tank pressure is to high , you will have to turn up the power wheel for more fps, when if you had the tank at lower pressure you would have higher velocity with less power wheel

Thanks powderburner! I moved the tp to .93 and pw to 5.5 and it shot at 920 (probably perfect speed for most but I like to see the spirrels doing backflips when hit..lol). So I kept moving pw out to 10 and it shot right at 1000! I think i’m going leave there and go hunting…thx for your help

I found my notes for 28 grain eunjin pellets at 1000 fps , .098 , PW 10 , 2300, 2400, fill is about the peak of the curve,

I know what your saying with the erratic fps, you have to have the top hat, power wheel and tank pressure in sync, to get the fps variation to a minimum.its a balancing act, you get it close then fine tune by opening top hat for more velocity, and turning power wheel to fine tune,

make sure you have hammer nice and oiled up on the inside of the frame and a nice clean bore too , i have seen my fps shot deviation go to crap , and oil the gun up nicely and get it back with the same settings that it worked fine with before.

I really played hard with the condor for a while getting the smallest shot deviation i could for peak accuracy at 50 yards, but i got burnt out, just been just shooting for kicks for now.now worrying about exact fps, i just fill and re zero and shoot. 🙂

I did find this for the Kodiak in my notes.

low 900’s seems to be the best fps that i have found for the Kodiak,

when you were at .110 and power wheel 6 i think the power wheel and top hat were to far out of sink for good fps variation, but you didnt say what your fill pressure or the pressure was at this setting.sometimes the tight fps variation will come in whith a set up as the tank pressure works into the right spot,

I am going to take a quess here and say , fill to 2300, power wheel at 5.5 , top hat .093 for 21 grain kodiak at peak of curve to 1000 fps.

fill higher and shoot a string while shooting groups thru the crony and this is a good way to see a pattern and see what the groups are doing while fine tuneing the fps.

I agree Powerburner… Just wondering where your tophat and pw setting would be for 21 grain kodiaks for approx 1000 fps? I got my th at .90 on pw 11-11 for 1014 fps and would like to lighten trigger pull. At what measurement does the tp contact the oring?

I leave the o’ring for all set ups, it helps with max power set up also to conserve air.

quote benneeb0y:

Good luck on the “ZTAC” we have been trying to get the Argentinians to throw us a bone for years now =)

Stirring the pot here:

http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=19846

You need to get rid of the oring to achieve your goal. It is slowing your fps. That’s the point of that mod.

Good luck on the “ZTAC” we have been trying to get the Argentinians to throw us a bone for years now =)

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